I have a 1980 C27. Bought the window reseal kit. They provide 3M 4200 fast cure for the caulk to use for the frame to boat surface. Is this the best choice for this job? One of my concerns with the 4200 is that once you open the tube it starts to cure in the tube. Not sure how long you have before it's unusable. I wasn't thinking of resealing all the windows in an intensive couple days. But maybe that's the only way. May just have to buy some additional 4200. Thoughts?
Catalina 27 Window Kit
- Thread starter Ajay73
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I have had pretty poor luck with 4200 before.
My 1974 C27 has the original windows still in it, but at some point in the past they were re-sealed with butyl putty (or tape). On really hot days some of it will weep out on spots where there is a bit of a gap.....however, the windows don't leak!!!
Cheers.
My 1974 C27 has the original windows still in it, but at some point in the past they were re-sealed with butyl putty (or tape). On really hot days some of it will weep out on spots where there is a bit of a gap.....however, the windows don't leak!!!
Cheers.
I want to hear an update on this also. I've stopped all deck leaks, it's just the old metal windows and I was waiting to see someone have success before I jack with it.
4200 is kind of a drag to work with - messy, cures fast, etc. I don't know of a better choice for the job since I've never messed with windows. I just know that I wouldn't want to be the next guy to reseal the windows after 4200 had been used.
Not sure about its suitability for windows, but since Elysium mentioned butyl tape ... it's the BEST for just about any other deck sealing project. For some reason it is looked down on a little bit - not because it doesn't work, but probably because it's not expensive enough. But it is so much easier to work with than anything else, seals better, lasts for decades without losing its effectiveness.
Not sure about its suitability for windows, but since Elysium mentioned butyl tape ... it's the BEST for just about any other deck sealing project. For some reason it is looked down on a little bit - not because it doesn't work, but probably because it's not expensive enough. But it is so much easier to work with than anything else, seals better, lasts for decades without losing its effectiveness.
Faris, the only question I have about using butyl is that I think it has a lot of body to it. Kind of like a plumbers putty. If that is true I would think you need a fair amount of clamping pressure to get it distributed under a flange. The Catalina windows are screwed together with sheet metal screws screwed into rather light aluminum. I wouldn't think you could get the clamping force needed to make an effective seal. If the windows were through bolted that would be a different story.
I've have used the CD window kit on my C27. I had problems- still do. The kit comes with a window silicon sealant tube, 4200, rubber glass seal, and vinyl trim for the inside groove. The rubber glass seal didn't lay well especially at the corners and it doesn't fill the aluminum channel, that's what the silicon is for. You are suppose to put silicon in each half of the aluminum channel, then slide the glass with seal in one half, then add the other half and bolt together. I don't think I put enough silicon in the channel as I still have leaks. Also the cut out in the fiberglass is larger than required so make sure you center your windows carefully when you reinstall.
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I don't know about the CD kit, but I don't like plexiglass cause it flexes & cracks like its done on every boat I've head with plastic portlights. I replaced my forward ports with opening Lewmars & used the butyl tape at the perimeter to seal it, and 4200 to seal the inner balsa core from moisture-rot. As far as getting a good seal with the existing windows, they are screwed from the aluminum frame directly into the fiberglass perimeter at the edge of the openings. One thing Catalina didn't slack on was the number of screws they used. So you don't have to worry about getting good compression of the butyl tape, or sealant, or whatever you choose to use. Just make sure you keep trying to seal them till U get it right. Then move on to the new leaks! Cheers.
My only concern on the butyl tape in my area is the high temperatures in the summer, 110deg and above and no clouds for weeks is not uncommon. Will this result in butyl goo ooziing out all over my window frames?
You're totally right about heat concerns; getting sticky butyl on cushions, etc sucks!! But... I'd say if you were getting a solid, even compression with all those screws then you should be good. The trick with butyl is to tighten slowly over a couple of days/weeks. Slow and steady will get it to a thin but tenacious seal.
Also, if you see it squeezing out just use a little ball of butyl rolled between your fingers to pull it away cleanly.
Also, if you see it squeezing out just use a little ball of butyl rolled between your fingers to pull it away cleanly.
Yeah, again, I can't speak to its suitability for sealing windows, and I don't have direct experience with heat issues (just not a problem in my neighborhood). But, it will go as thin as you need it to, and it doesn't really take much pressure. And, I will say this about sealants in general:
All sealants have a certain amount of compressibility and elasticity. The thicker the layer, the more you can compress and expand the sealant. Provided you get a good seal in the first place, the reason seals fail is for one or both of the following reasons:
1) The sealant loses its adhesion to the surface it's supposed to seal.
2) The sealant layer is expanded past its maximum elasticity.
If the surfaces are properly prepped, no decent sealant should fail for the first reason. If the surfaces are not properly prepped, most sealants will fail eventually because of the first reason. So, it comes down to the second reason, and this is where butyl tape really shines.
Unlike most sealants, butyl tape never hardens/cures. So, if you have a boat with 30-year old hardware bedded with butyl tape by the factory, and you remove the hardware, it will still be sticky and stretchy ... like gum. In fact, you could, in most cases pick the hardware up, bolt it back down in the same position, and it would seal back up again. (Of course, I wouldn't advise it, especially since it takes all of 2-3 minutes and a few cents worth of butyl tape to redo it.)
What this means is that, even if you really stress the seal and manage to exceed its exceptional elasticity, chances are that it will seal up again when the part is returned to a less-stressed position. It is self-healing in this regard. And, if you're hard on equipment, that's a good thing.
Just in terms of effectiveness, butyl tape would be an outstanding choice for a long seal that ran along surfaces with a lot of flex ... like certain windows. Could you get it thin enough? Yes. Would it run in the heat? I don't know.
All sealants have a certain amount of compressibility and elasticity. The thicker the layer, the more you can compress and expand the sealant. Provided you get a good seal in the first place, the reason seals fail is for one or both of the following reasons:
1) The sealant loses its adhesion to the surface it's supposed to seal.
2) The sealant layer is expanded past its maximum elasticity.
If the surfaces are properly prepped, no decent sealant should fail for the first reason. If the surfaces are not properly prepped, most sealants will fail eventually because of the first reason. So, it comes down to the second reason, and this is where butyl tape really shines.
Unlike most sealants, butyl tape never hardens/cures. So, if you have a boat with 30-year old hardware bedded with butyl tape by the factory, and you remove the hardware, it will still be sticky and stretchy ... like gum. In fact, you could, in most cases pick the hardware up, bolt it back down in the same position, and it would seal back up again. (Of course, I wouldn't advise it, especially since it takes all of 2-3 minutes and a few cents worth of butyl tape to redo it.)
What this means is that, even if you really stress the seal and manage to exceed its exceptional elasticity, chances are that it will seal up again when the part is returned to a less-stressed position. It is self-healing in this regard. And, if you're hard on equipment, that's a good thing.
Just in terms of effectiveness, butyl tape would be an outstanding choice for a long seal that ran along surfaces with a lot of flex ... like certain windows. Could you get it thin enough? Yes. Would it run in the heat? I don't know.
I did the windows on the C-27 about 8 months ago and used Butyl tape. The one I used is 1/8" x 1/2". It was easy to apply and stays in place nicely while installing the frames.
It oozed as expected. I left it for about a week and came back and trimmed the excess. the excess was easy to remove and peeled off clean. There has been no more oozing since. The Butyl tape will skin out over time but remains semi soft. I used it to plug the leak in the bow eye. Despite some high stress on the eye the tape adjust and flexes with it, still no leaks.
When I took the window off it looks like they had been originally bedded with butyl tape. To remove the old stuff I used some paint reducer that I had laying around. It cleaned it off pretty quickly. I was so pleased I made a short shaky video.
It oozed as expected. I left it for about a week and came back and trimmed the excess. the excess was easy to remove and peeled off clean. There has been no more oozing since. The Butyl tape will skin out over time but remains semi soft. I used it to plug the leak in the bow eye. Despite some high stress on the eye the tape adjust and flexes with it, still no leaks.
When I took the window off it looks like they had been originally bedded with butyl tape. To remove the old stuff I used some paint reducer that I had laying around. It cleaned it off pretty quickly. I was so pleased I made a short shaky video.
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