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Catalina 25 Rudder replacement

Oct 13, 2015
11
Catalina Capri Stank Paw Slough
Hi,
I just received my NEW rudder for a 1980 Catalina 25 from Catalina ( Thanks Len) and I had a few questions.

IS THERE A TEMPLATE FOR THE PINTLES/ GUDGEONS OR DO I JUST USE OLD RUDDER AS A TEMPLATE? close enough good enough?

Also , is there any nuance thing I should consider before drilling the 3/8" holr fpr the tiller?

The rudder comes from Catalina with nothing already drilled for the hardware and the OLD and the NEW rudders line up almost exactly except the new one doesn't have a wooden core!!!

It is simple enough. I am going to align the parts together mark the holes and drill.

The hole for the tiller on the old is somewhat bigger than the size of the screw which is 3/8". I plan to drill the hole 3/8" so there isn't a lot of play.

Moving on....after I drill the holes Do I need to add any sealant or does anyone know if I will be drilling through a SOLID material since it is not wood any more....

Any Ideas?

Thanks in advance
 
Last edited:

womble

.
Jan 13, 2015
40
Catalina 30 Middle River
Install the tiller. Have someone hold the tiller with a spacer between the tiller and the transom and hang the rudder over the transom. (Rudder hanging from the tiller only) Position the upper pintle into the gudgen and rudder and drill for bolts and install nuts. Repeat for the lower pintle. In this way BOTH gudgeons/pintles are sharing the load. If you don't do this, it's quite possible only one gudgen/pintle combo will hold the weight - you only need to be off a little and you'll need to try and make up the gap with spacers. On my old C25 with the factory rudder, this was the case. When I got my new rudder, I also got new gudgeons with the welded gusset for reinforcement. The old gudgeons tend to sag after time, especially if only one gudgeon/pintle combo bears the load.

CD have 2 versions of the rudder, HDPE and fiberglass. Which one did you get? If fiberglass, I'd ask CD what the core material is as this may affect your need/choice of sealant. If HDPE drill with impunity!!!
 
Last edited:
Apr 4, 2013
111
O'day 240 NY, NY (City Island)
If your new rudder is anything like the new one I received from Foss for my O'day 240, and is not pre-drilled for the pintels/gudgeons, then I would definitely overdrill, fill them in with epoxy, and re-drill for the proper size bolt. This will ensure that the foam inside will remain sealed. I might also suggest that you use a drill guide to ensure you drill straight through at a 90 degree angle.
 
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Oct 13, 2015
11
Catalina Capri Stank Paw Slough
Install the tiller. Have someone hold the tiller with a spacer between the tiller and the transom and hang the rudder over the transom. (Rudder hanging from the tiller only) Position the upper pintle into the gudgen and rudder and drill for bolts and install nuts. Repeat for the lower pintle. In this way BOTH gudgeons/pintles are sharing the load. If you don't do this, it's quite possible only one gudgen/pintle combo will hold the weight - you only need to be off a little and you'll need to try and make up the gap with spacers. On my old C25 with the factory rudder, this was the case. When I got my new rudder, I also got new gudgeons with the welded gusset for reinforcement. The old gudgeons tend to sag after time, especially if only one gudgeon/pintle combo bears the load.

CD have 2 versions of the rudder, HDPE and fiberglass. Which one did you get? If fiberglass, I'd ask CD what the core material is as this may affect your need/choice of sealant. If HDPE drill with impunity!!!
Thank you . This is fiberglass and not HDPE. I WILL HAVE TO WRITE the supplier and see what the core material is.
 
Oct 13, 2015
11
Catalina Capri Stank Paw Slough
If your new rudder is anything like the new one I received from Foss for my O'day 240, and is not pre-drilled for the pintels/gudgeons, then I would definitely overdrill, fill them in with epoxy, and re-drill for the proper size bolt. This will ensure that the foam inside will remain sealed. I might also suggest that you use a drill guide to ensure you drill straight through at a 90 degree angle.
That is right it is not pre-drilled. I had to obtain schematics for the template and match them against the previous installation. Luckily the the rudders are nearly exact except for construction. I am able to align the holes of the old rudder on top and mark the new rudder underneath. I have the rudder on my work bench positioned on my drill press if you could imagine that feat of engineering to ensure a straight hole. Factory schematic and actual installation is different. But not really by much....what to do....
 
Feb 20, 2011
7,407
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
what to do....
As GregL564 suggested.

You could do an exploratory drilling to learn the actual composition, but whatever it turns out to be, the over-drilling and filling with epoxy, then re-drilling for your actual fastener is the way to go.
 
Jan 1, 2006
4,839
Slickcraft 26 Greenport, NY
You don't want the rudder's weight to only bear on the lower pintle/gudgeon. That is a hight stressed area to begin with. So I agree with Wombie's technique. The uppers need to be completely seated before drilling for the lowers.
Good Old Boat has two articles in the January/February 2017 issue. Pg 30 and Pg 36 that cover some of the finer points of a transom hung rudder. If done improperly there can pre-mature failure. It's not really a close enough is good enough procedure.