I wonder if anyone else has seen this problem? I can't remove my old fan belt because the engine seems to be mounted to far forward and the space between the belt pulley and the fiberglass wall of the bench seat is too narrow. Could the engine be working its way forward over time...or was it just mounted too far forward to begin with? Should I have the engine moved backwards (and realigned) or should I just try and cut away some fiberglass? Thanks is advance, Jim
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Jim
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Tim Dranttel
Fan Belt Replacement
Jim, I have an '86 Cat 30 with the old M25 motor. I do not know if the external dimentions are the same or if the fan belt/alternator configuration are the same. What I do know is this: I change my belt each season. To remove the belt I loosen the alternator braket at the adjustment point and create as much slack as possible. This in usually not enough to just pull the belt off the alternator pulley so I take a large flat screwdriver and insert the blade between the belt and the pulley and then turn the motor by hand so that the screwdriver it pulled up and around the pulley and pops the belt off. Then I manuver the belt off the bottom pulley. To install a new belt I again from the top of the engine compartment I install the belt on the alternator and water pump pulleys and then work the belt as much as I can onto the crank pulley. I make sure that the portion belt which I cannot get onto the crank pulley is on the 4-6 o'clock side of things. Then I turn the motor by hand counter clockwise and it draws the belt onto the pulley. Just like getting a bicycle chain back on a sproket. Tighten the belt at the alternator. This probabley has not helped as you seem to not have enough room. It is tight for me as well but between working from above and trough the access door on the front I can work everything in. As far as the mounting of the engine the motor mounts should have slots in them and you could check how far forward the engine is actually mounted. Tim
Jim, I have an '86 Cat 30 with the old M25 motor. I do not know if the external dimentions are the same or if the fan belt/alternator configuration are the same. What I do know is this: I change my belt each season. To remove the belt I loosen the alternator braket at the adjustment point and create as much slack as possible. This in usually not enough to just pull the belt off the alternator pulley so I take a large flat screwdriver and insert the blade between the belt and the pulley and then turn the motor by hand so that the screwdriver it pulled up and around the pulley and pops the belt off. Then I manuver the belt off the bottom pulley. To install a new belt I again from the top of the engine compartment I install the belt on the alternator and water pump pulleys and then work the belt as much as I can onto the crank pulley. I make sure that the portion belt which I cannot get onto the crank pulley is on the 4-6 o'clock side of things. Then I turn the motor by hand counter clockwise and it draws the belt onto the pulley. Just like getting a bicycle chain back on a sproket. Tighten the belt at the alternator. This probabley has not helped as you seem to not have enough room. It is tight for me as well but between working from above and trough the access door on the front I can work everything in. As far as the mounting of the engine the motor mounts should have slots in them and you could check how far forward the engine is actually mounted. Tim
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Richard
Engine cover
Have you tried removing the front teak cover and relocating it lower? If thats not possible, I would cut out just enough to get the belt on of off before moving the engine. Good luck
Have you tried removing the front teak cover and relocating it lower? If thats not possible, I would cut out just enough to get the belt on of off before moving the engine. Good luck
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Joe Luciano
Well known problem
This is a well known problem with the C-30 and the M25XP diesel. In "the book" by Dick Dickens, there is a picture and description of the need to cut out an area of fiberglass around the forward engine hatch below the fly wheel in order to easily remove the belt and install a new one. There's likely nothing wrong with your engine mounts or movement.
This is a well known problem with the C-30 and the M25XP diesel. In "the book" by Dick Dickens, there is a picture and description of the need to cut out an area of fiberglass around the forward engine hatch below the fly wheel in order to easily remove the belt and install a new one. There's likely nothing wrong with your engine mounts or movement.
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Jim
would like more info on "the book"
Joe, Thanks for that note...I'm 'happy' to hear that there wasn't something unusually wrong with my boat/motor. Where can I get a copy of the Dick Dicken's book, sounds like it would be good to have! Jim
Joe, Thanks for that note...I'm 'happy' to hear that there wasn't something unusually wrong with my boat/motor. Where can I get a copy of the Dick Dicken's book, sounds like it would be good to have! Jim
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Tom
C30 Tech-talk
See the C30 Association website, http://www.catalina30.com, and specifically the link below for Dick's address.
See the C30 Association website, http://www.catalina30.com, and specifically the link below for Dick's address.
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Rich
You can't move the engine back.
Hi I have a 87 C-30 I know exactly what you are talking about. First the engine is mounted so you can adjust up and down and side to side but not forward and back. In the event that you were able to move it back you would leave more space between the prop and the cutlass bearing which may cause more vibration than you would like. Taking all the engine mount bolts out sliding the engine back temporarily is also an option. You will need to mark all your mounts to make sure everything goes back where it belongs. If your engine is aligned well then this is probably not something you would like to do. But since alignment is something that should be checked every year than you may need to be aligned anyway. On my 87 it appears that the factory cut away a little fiberglass in front of the pulley so the belt just fits through it. I can't even notice it without my taking the teak trim off or looking at the edge of the frame. There is probably enough room for a pencil to slide under the frame right in the middle of where it was cut out. If I had to actually cut away the fiberglass myself I would start by moving the enging back out of the way then use some type of drum sander on an electric drill. Somewhat messy but will yield a nice professional job. A half round file will likely work as well but be careful the fiberglass may want to delaminate. Goodluck hope this was helpful.
Hi I have a 87 C-30 I know exactly what you are talking about. First the engine is mounted so you can adjust up and down and side to side but not forward and back. In the event that you were able to move it back you would leave more space between the prop and the cutlass bearing which may cause more vibration than you would like. Taking all the engine mount bolts out sliding the engine back temporarily is also an option. You will need to mark all your mounts to make sure everything goes back where it belongs. If your engine is aligned well then this is probably not something you would like to do. But since alignment is something that should be checked every year than you may need to be aligned anyway. On my 87 it appears that the factory cut away a little fiberglass in front of the pulley so the belt just fits through it. I can't even notice it without my taking the teak trim off or looking at the edge of the frame. There is probably enough room for a pencil to slide under the frame right in the middle of where it was cut out. If I had to actually cut away the fiberglass myself I would start by moving the enging back out of the way then use some type of drum sander on an electric drill. Somewhat messy but will yield a nice professional job. A half round file will likely work as well but be careful the fiberglass may want to delaminate. Goodluck hope this was helpful.
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Larry Watkins
Fan belt removal
Jim; Doesn't your engine space have a door right in front of the engine? My 82 C30 did. If it doesn't, cut one in the 'glass panel, insert one of the ready-made teak door assemblies and viola! Larry W.
Jim; Doesn't your engine space have a door right in front of the engine? My 82 C30 did. If it doesn't, cut one in the 'glass panel, insert one of the ready-made teak door assemblies and viola! Larry W.
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