Can I use a cam cleat on my Catalina 30 to hold the headsail sheet instead of tying around the cleat , Is this strong enough?
Cam Cleat
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After it has been around a winch, correct? Yes, the cam cleat is only holding what you could hold in your hand. Many sailors on even large boats use cam cleats for this on gusty days.
In front of the winch, of course, you would need a clutch.
In front of the winch, of course, you would need a clutch.
I would not feel secure with only cam cleat unless I was also on a winch. So you would mount the cam cleat after the winches.
I would check out http://garhauermarine.com/ they have all kinds of stuff to update a Cat 30, they only sell direct so I don't think you can order through this board.
I would check out http://garhauermarine.com/ they have all kinds of stuff to update a Cat 30, they only sell direct so I don't think you can order through this board.
If you led the sheet directly to a cam cleat- not only would you have to release the sheet and have no control over the sail while re-wrapping the sheet around the winch- you might not be able to pop it out of the cam cleat.
Thinwater's pic is illustrative. I like the cam cleat in that position because you can release it from the "High" side using your legs and back before a tack. If it is on a horizontal surface you have to stand up, on the low side of the cockpit, and use your arms to pull up on the sheet to release it. On a multihull maybe its a moot point; but if you are heeled over, standing on the low side is dangerous on several levels. In the pic the line will chafe on the seat but there isn't so much tension on the line at that point and I would prefer that to the horizontally mounted cleat. You could install a stainless chafe guard there if it turned out to be problem.
Thinwater's pic is illustrative. I like the cam cleat in that position because you can release it from the "High" side using your legs and back before a tack. If it is on a horizontal surface you have to stand up, on the low side of the cockpit, and use your arms to pull up on the sheet to release it. On a multihull maybe its a moot point; but if you are heeled over, standing on the low side is dangerous on several levels. In the pic the line will chafe on the seat but there isn't so much tension on the line at that point and I would prefer that to the horizontally mounted cleat. You could install a stainless chafe guard there if it turned out to be problem.
Alternatly, after running around the sheet winch just put a half hitch on a bight with the running end on the working end. A quick pull on the tail and she is free. Presumably you have dedicated winches for the sheets.
Lots of options.
Absolutely......... with three or more wraps on, most of the load is on the winch. You can also use a CLAMCLEAT .... The main thing is not to equip the cleat with a fairlead or any other captive device.
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Yes there are some cam cleats that can take direct loads from mainsails, etc. but you have to work out all the potential loads involved, such as the 'mechanical advantage' of your block system of your mainsheet to insure that you dont go beyond the inherent strength of the cam cleat.
If the force of the lines given to the cam cleat is too great you may have great difficulty in releasing; "trigger" cam cleats can then work - the cam cleat has a 'trigger' that when the rope is pulled down onto the trigger which automatically opens and totally disengages the cleat .... but the high loads will then transfer to your hands and arms, etc.
The Harken website has a 'calculator' for you to analyse all the loads involved and can pretty well match those loads to most of their equipment. If thats not possible, then simply call/contact the hardware manufacturer's *application department* and they will make the appropriate recommendations; best is to send a drawing or picture of what you intend, including your boat detail description, etc. and the wind/wave conditions that you normally intend to sail.
Anywho .... for direct mainsheet to cam cleat, I prefer to run the line through a *hexaratchet* before the line enters the cam cleat .... prevents rope-burning your hands if the loads at that time of release are greater than what you can 'hold' .... the hexaratchet then is able to 'snub' the line for you (as would with a winch, but you have to always 'wrap' the winch) and with little to minimal hand pressure on the rope. The hexaratchet is 'always' connected and engaged and thus needs no mechanical 'wrapping'.
I use hexaratchets on all control lines that could possibly give me 'rope burns' ... mainsheets, jib sheets, furling drum control lines, etc. .... downside is they're not 'cheap'.
If the force of the lines given to the cam cleat is too great you may have great difficulty in releasing; "trigger" cam cleats can then work - the cam cleat has a 'trigger' that when the rope is pulled down onto the trigger which automatically opens and totally disengages the cleat .... but the high loads will then transfer to your hands and arms, etc.
The Harken website has a 'calculator' for you to analyse all the loads involved and can pretty well match those loads to most of their equipment. If thats not possible, then simply call/contact the hardware manufacturer's *application department* and they will make the appropriate recommendations; best is to send a drawing or picture of what you intend, including your boat detail description, etc. and the wind/wave conditions that you normally intend to sail.
Anywho .... for direct mainsheet to cam cleat, I prefer to run the line through a *hexaratchet* before the line enters the cam cleat .... prevents rope-burning your hands if the loads at that time of release are greater than what you can 'hold' .... the hexaratchet then is able to 'snub' the line for you (as would with a winch, but you have to always 'wrap' the winch) and with little to minimal hand pressure on the rope. The hexaratchet is 'always' connected and engaged and thus needs no mechanical 'wrapping'.
I use hexaratchets on all control lines that could possibly give me 'rope burns' ... mainsheets, jib sheets, furling drum control lines, etc. .... downside is they're not 'cheap'.
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