Cabin wood insert removal Hunter 26

Feb 21, 2013
4,638
Hunter 46 Point Richmond, CA
Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your new boat!!

This is a long shot.......drill out the bungs, locate the screw and remove the screws....otherwise might be secured with adhesive. Please let us know how you removed it.
 
Mar 12, 2021
59
Hunter 26 Gulfport
It feels like it is secured by adhesive. Thought it might be secured by the rubber gasket running all around it but no. If I put a flat head screwdriver under it and gently pry up, it feels like it is stuck with adhesive. Too bad.

I will have to create a template before removing it.
 
Dec 20, 2020
124
Prindle 16' Corrotoman River, VA
Based on what I've research (for mine) it looks like it is glued in. Refinishing in place is probably a lot easier.
 
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Jan 19, 2010
12,370
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
Mine looks similar but it is not real wood. It is some sort of faux wood. If yours is real wood, you should be able to sand it, then bleach the wood with muriatic acid or oxalic acid, then stain and varnish. If you go to all of the trouble to remove it, I'd put some sort of faux product down that is water resistant and anti-skid. There are many faux wood products, just be sure it is rated for outdoor (and/or wet) environments.


In the past few months I have surfaced two concrete floors with Rustoleum’s epoxy garage floor surface paint. It is marvelous stuff. I can’t say enough good things about how the job turned out and how easy it was. A gallon would be WAY more than you need so you could easily test it out on a piece of fiberglass. The can says it will work on fiberglass but I have no first hand experience there. You can add anti-skid beads and a high gloss surface if you want. This is a picture of the gray floor I did. This is a utility room at work. I also did a floor in blue. You can get many different colors. The floor in my picture does not have the high gloss or anti-skid. My understanding is the anti-skid is only necessary if you go with the high gloss.
After.JPG
1618411198751.png


Here is a color that would look nice as a faux wood floor... kind of looks like cherry.
1618411382048.png


I think this would also look very cool...

1618411442209.png


 

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Jun 8, 2004
10,062
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Replaced about 100 floor pans or teak and holly dole. It is glued down. DO NOT DRILL OR YOU WILL BE SORRY. IT is glued with liquid nails. The black seal is Dow 795.

You can check archives as to removal but your description tells me squat as to removal if necessary. I was involved with the design team

Feel free to contact me via private forum email. I prefer to talk as I have arthritis in my hands.
 
Mar 12, 2021
59
Hunter 26 Gulfport
Mine looks similar but it is not real wood. It is some sort of faux wood. If yours is real wood, you should be able to sand it, then bleach the wood with muriatic acid or oxalic acid, then stain and varnish. If you go to all of the trouble to remove it, I'd put some sort of faux product down that is water resistant and anti-skid. There are many faux wood products, just be sure it is rated for outdoor (and/or wet) environments.


In the past few months I have surfaced two concrete floors with Rustoleum’s epoxy garage floor surface paint. It is marvelous stuff. I can’t say enough good things about how the job turned out and how easy it was. A gallon would be WAY more than you need so you could easily test it out on a piece of fiberglass. The can says it will work on fiberglass but I have no first hand experience there. You can add anti-skid beads and a high gloss surface if you want. This is a picture of the gray floor I did. This is a utility room at work. I also did a floor in blue. You can get many different colors. The floor in my picture does not have the high gloss or anti-skid. My understanding is the anti-skid is only necessary if you go with the high gloss.
View attachment 192709View attachment 192712

Here is a color that would look nice as a faux wood floor... kind of looks like cherry.
View attachment 192713

I think this would also look very cool...

View attachment 192714

interesting idea. I’ll figure something out. It’s not wood but something that looks like wood. It absorbs water... I can attest to that... so it’s not anything plastic. Curious as to what it is.
 
Dec 20, 2020
124
Prindle 16' Corrotoman River, VA
interesting idea. I’ll figure something out. It’s not wood but something that looks like wood. It absorbs water... I can attest to that... so it’s not anything plastic. Curious as to what it is.
The pic in the first post looks like the original floor to me. Scrubbed and oiled it'd probably look new again.
 

Doug J

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May 2, 2005
1,192
Hunter 26 Oceanside, CA
The pic in the first post looks like the original floor to me. Scrubbed and oiled it'd probably look new again.
I agree with Thaniel. I would definitely try to restore it before taking it out. I think it's a wood veneer. Mine needs some love too, but I plan to go the restoration route.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,062
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Original was teal and holly sole or the real stuff. Later it was a more durable composite. Either way it is expensive. If you plan to sand be very careful not to sand thru the fist layer as it is thin.
 

Doug J

.
May 2, 2005
1,192
Hunter 26 Oceanside, CA
Original was teal and holly sole or the real stuff. Later it was a more durable composite. Either way it is expensive. If you plan to sand be very careful not to sand thru the fist layer as it is thin.
Oh nice! I have an old 94', must have teak and holly. :)
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,062
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Yes sir. Ask marinas or repair yards if the have any big scrap. Just be careful about sanding. I would try to restore first
 
Feb 21, 2013
4,638
Hunter 46 Point Richmond, CA
If you want to remove the floor, make a template and fabricate a new piece from teak and holly from many suppliers OR marine plywood glued down with any number of durable marine flooring materials like teak and holly vinyl Lonseal Home • Lonseal . I have done both on two different powerboats and love it.
 

BrianJ

.
Dec 29, 2020
8
Hunter 26 Lewis and Clark Lake
I just removed mine and sanded it down. I stuck some luck because the glue holding it was very weak. It peeled right up. I haven’t finished it yet but it’s looks like it will turn out well. Picture is half sanded. If it wasn’t loose I would finish it in place.
 

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Dec 2, 2003
752
Hunter 260 winnipeg, Manitoba
I had to pull ours last year after the ply completely delaminated. I replaced with a plastic laminate plank. not sure if it survived our winter yet but will post a follow up in a few weeks. This is how it it looked after installation.
 

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Doug J

.
May 2, 2005
1,192
Hunter 26 Oceanside, CA
Got this from a Google search.
"Fill a bucket with warm water and a splash of Dawn soap. Use the 3M scrub pad with plenty of soapy water to scrub the sole. This acts as a mild sandpaper without scratching, but it will deep clean most of the built in grime."

I think I'll try this first. Should be the least risky.
Here's what mine looks like.

20150228_110716_hq.jpg
 
Mar 12, 2021
59
Hunter 26 Gulfport
I had to pull ours last year after the ply completely delaminated. I replaced with a plastic laminate plank. not sure if it survived our winter yet but will post a follow up in a few weeks. This is how it it looked after installation.

Now that looks amazing! The biggest issue is the thickness of whatever replacement material is used. It has to match the height of the surrounding area. Having something that can easily be removed and replaced is important to me.