Depends on the boat. Some manufacturers use screws which just screw into the deck.Anyone take off their cabin top handrails? It looks like you have to take off the rails inside to get to the nuts that hold the outside handrails. Anyone confirm that?? Thanks!!
There is an O'day 34 that is used for day charters in Newport, RI, that has a similar setup to what you describe. I was looking for a static picture that would show the teak handrails on the deck, but their website takes forever to load. Instead, I found this video in which I see NO deck handrails at all;Hmm...I wonder if a previous owner changed mine. I don't have an of those spacers, just regular teak handrail. The three most forward screw were like what you have pictured because the inside handrail doesn't go that far forward.
I look at that boat every time I’m in Newport also, just to compare to mine. I don’t like the hand hold idea instead of a full handrail either.There is an O'day 34 that is used for day charters in Newport, RI, that has a similar setup to what you describe. I was looking for a static picture that would show the teak handrails on the deck, but their website takes forever to load. Instead, I found this video in which I see NO deck handrails at all;
Every time that I go to Newport I look at the boat. This time I noticed that it has an aft teak handrail with 5 attachment points (4 handholds), and a forward one with 3 attachment points. I prefer the full length rail, as I would hate to reach for the rail, and grab where the space is.
Nice!I missed this thread, or I would have replied sooner.
The original handrails are (were) teak, and secured through the cabin top with really long Phillips head screws.
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I ordered replacements from McMaster-Carr.
The way that they are fastened is through the inner handrails, through the cabintop liner, through the deck, through a spacer, through the handrail, and into a nut that is set into the handrail with a teak plug epoxied over it. Thus;
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I couldn't stand the teak looking like crap, so I replaced mine with 1" Stainless Steel box tube. The problem with that is the ends must be tapered from 1" to 1-7/8" (if I recall correctly).
I got it done and this is the result, and how they look today;
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