Cabin paint question

[Mr Fox]

Hey everybody-

My boat at one point had a layer of paint applied with zero prep over the old paint. Original paint is 1982, interior walls are fiberglass (so bumpy not smooth).

The original paint is still on just fine, it’s white, but the applied layer (no idea how old, it’s more of a creme color) is flaking everywhere, super annoying - you brush up against it and it’s a mini snow storm, and of course those flakes stick with amazing tenacity to the cabin sole, bunk cushions, clothes, pretty much anything but the walls.

I’m going to strip all the old paint, thinking with a combo of 80 grit on an orbital sander, and perhaps a heat gun and elbow grease where this doesn’t work well. I’d like to avoid chemical strippers but will use if I must. Perhaps I can get the bumpy surface a touch smoother in the process.

What I need help with is choosing the paint- I want the strongest, smoothest result possible here. Should I use an acrylic latex paint? Can I use awlgrip? Is there some super tough epoxy kind of paint? I am ok with a paint that requires tons of work if the result will be a good long term fix. Really I know nothing.

Also guidance on what kind of primer to use with the paint is appreciated. I have searched through threads buts the ones I find are pretty old, want to be sure I’m not missing out on a newer technique or product.

Thank you

 

[dlochner]

Avoid acrylic latex paint, that's probably what's on there now. When latex paints are applied they leave a thin latex skin on the surface, that skin is latex rubber. When it fails, it flakes off.

I recently read about a water based acrylic as being a good choice for boat interiors, but don't take my word for it. You might try searching for more info on that type of paint.

It will be difficult to remove all the failing paint by sanding because the surface isn't smooth, it will be tough to get into the nooks and crannies. A good stiff brush and soapy water may go along way towards removing it, without causing any damage.

As for prep, follow the manufacturers recommendations.

The tech support folks at Jamestown Distributors might have some ideas too.

 

[Mr Fox]

I was looking at a paint eater disc for the orbital sander- looks like it’s a 3m made super coarse sponge kind of thing, might be good for a first pass.

 

[dlochner]

I was looking at a paint eater disc for the orbital sander- looks like it’s a 3m made super coarse sponge kind of thing, might be good for a first pass.

I haven't heard of these until now. Thanks.

But why go for just the disk, when you can buy a new tool?

Wagner PaintEATER 4-1/2 in. Disc Sander 0513040 - The Home Depot

Acquire the Wagner PaintEater 4-1/2 in. Disc Sander 513040, power tool high-performance, spun-fiber disc operates at 2,000 RPM to provide the proper combination of disc performance and user control and

www.homedepot.com

 

[dmax]

There are some non-toxic, citrus based paint strippers that you might think about trying - they generally work well with latex paints.

 

[sailme88]

What about applying gel coat ?

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

Avoid acrylic latex paint, that's probably what's on there now. When latex paints are applied they leave a thin latex skin on the surface, that skin is latex rubber. When it fails, it flakes off.

I've used Acrylic latex on boat interiors for years- in both of mine and many customer boats. NEVER have had problems with it flaking or peeling, IF the prep is done right. Vast difference between acrylic latex and the old latex paints

 

[TomY]

I've found acrylic enamel (urethane fortified) lasts longer than oil, doesn't chip and flake like oil enamel and is more abrasion resistant than oil. On the boat, I use it for decks, house top and of course anywhere I want an enamel below decks. I also use it on the dinghy which is a tough test. On the dinghy interior where foot abrasion and sand really grind the finish down, I can go 2 seasons without a coat (only 1 season with oil).

The only thing I think oil enamel will do is lay - a little - flatter than acrylic. But this mirror like finish is in the hands of a very experienced painter who will likely lay on 5 or more coats of oil enamel on finish work below, along with the tedious prep work between coats. I can't achieve those results (I doubt any of us can) and can't see putting that amount of time in. I can get acrylic to level as well as oil with a two coat job.

You can improve the leveling of acrylic enamel with additives like Flo-trol.

It sounds like the results of Mr. Fox's project will be 99% dependant upon prep of the old surface. I would try a heat gun and scrapers to see if the old coating comes off easily. There will still be some sanding but heat may be the fastest and least messy.

Primer: I'd go for an acrylic primer that has a high hiding, stain covering primer. Roll and tip all the coats if you can, that alone will result in a more even coating than brushing alone.

 

[srimes]

I've found acrylic enamel (urethane fortified) lasts longer than oil, doesn't chip and flake like oil enamel and is more abrasion resistant than oil. On the boat, I use it for decks, house top and of course anywhere I want an enamel below decks. I also use it on the dinghy which is a tough test. On the dinghy interior where foot abrasion and sand really grind the finish down, I can go 2 seasons without a coat (only 1 season with oil).

The only thing I think oil enamel will do is lay - a little - flatter than acrylic. But this mirror like finish is in the hands of a very experienced painter who will likely lay on 5 or more coats of oil enamel on finish work below, along with the tedious prep work between coats. I can't achieve those results (I doubt any of us can) and can't see putting that amount of time in. I can get acrylic to level as well as oil with a two coat job.

You can improve the leveling of acrylic enamel with additives like Flo-trol.

It sounds like the results of Mr. Fox's project will be 99% dependant upon prep of the old surface. I would try a heat gun and scrapers to see if the old coating comes off easily. There will still be some sanding but heat may be the fastest and least messy.

Primer: I'd go for an acrylic primer that has a high hiding, stain covering primer. Roll and tip all the coats if you can, that alone will result in a more even coating than brushing alone.

What acrylic enamel product do you use? I usually hear of acrylic as water based, and enamel as oil based.

 

[DrJudyB]

I've used Acrylic latex on boat interiors for years- in both of mine and many customer boats. NEVER have had problems with it flaking or peeling, IF the prep is done right. Vast difference between acrylic latex and the old latex paints

Charlie has decades of experience building boats and refinishing furniture. He know his paints.

 

[TomY]

What acrylic enamel product do you use? I usually hear of acrylic as water based, and enamel as oil based.

Rustoleum, Valspar, both available at my local hardware and supply. I use a Porch and Floor water based acrylic in both Rustoleum and Valspar, but I also use Valspar water based acrylic enamel in Valspar. Either comes in bases that you can get colors mixed as well as finish (Satin, Gloss etc.)

These decks are a Rustoleum Porch and Floor, now about 6 years old (they need recoating but no peeling). The dinghy interior is the same or could be a Valspar enamel. Easy to get the shade you want.

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

Thank you Judy. I do try

 

[Mr Fox]

I've used Acrylic latex on boat interiors for years- in both of mine and many customer boats. NEVER have had problems with it flaking or peeling, IF the prep is done right. Vast difference between acrylic latex and the old latex paints

This may be a dumb question but can one use awlgrip, and is it tougher thank an acrylic latex paint (pardon my ignorance). Can you explain the difference to me - I’d just like to learn.

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

Well, the last time i used Awlgrip on a customers boat, on the EXTERIOR, the quart of paint, the reducer and the catalyst ran $220 for the quart. Where as a quart of Acrylic latex runs about 15-20 bucks. That's one difference

 

[mermike]

I tried the top of the line water based urethane from Sherwin Williams and was happy with the application and cleanup, but it does not wear as well as a good marine enamel on deck surfaces.

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

Charlie has decades of experience building boats and refinishing furniture. He know his paints.

May be the wrong spot, but here's some pics of a few of my boats i've buiit.

My 35 foot coldmolded Cross trimaran

A customers Core Sound 17. I've built two of these, and a 20 footer.;

A pair of Band B Yacht designs Birders-I've built 7 of his designs so far

A Pilgrim 22, also from B and B

and a restoration of a Meridian 25. First pic is when I started

Second is 18 months later

and a Dinghy (I've done two of this design)

and a CLC Johns' Sharpie I later converted into a trimaran

I have many more, but that's a start.

I've also done full interior remodels on many boats

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

I have no idea how and why the extraneous pics are there- I'm a boat builder

 

[Barnacle Bill]

I guess you get what you pay for. Awlgrip or the later generation Awlcraft is expensive for sure, but it also has the best color retention, abrasion resistance and gloss retention than most other paints. It is a linear polyurethane paint. Not acrylic, alkyd, latex, epoxy, etc. After proper preparation and cleaning, the surface should be coated with their epoxy 545 primer for best adhesion. Then the topcoat color of choice, but for nonskid surfaces you must use a flattening agent or it will still be slippery when wet even if you use a grit. Grit can be applied in several ways. Shoot it with the paint with a paint gun with the proper tip, mix it in the paint and roll it on or apply your finish coat, sprinkle the grit on evenly, let it dry overnight and paint more topcoat over it. A crisp tape job with masking tape makes it a fine job.

 

[Timm R Oday25]

As far as recommendations for the paint itself ,I'd just go with what Charlie Jones suggests . The interior of our Oday 25 came from the factory with some type yellow burlap glued to the interior .Almost all of it pulled off fairly easily .
I placed our shop-vac in the cockpit and connected the random orbital sander to it . It helped keep the inevitable dust to a minimum. Prepping the hull was key to making the upgrade a longterm sucess .

 

[srimes]

and a Dinghy (I've done two of this design)

View attachment 184576

Love the pics!

Really like the looks of that dinghy. What are your thoughts on it?