I have a tall rig C27 140% Genoa that looks to be in brand new condition. I would like to trade for a similiar condition tall rig Main or sell outright. Email me at tiramisu@rockisland.com for more info.
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Nigel
Thru-hull sizes
I have a 74 Cat 27 with an outboard. There are 3 thru-hulls. The head outlet is 1-1/2", the head inlet and the sink drain are both 3/4". When I replaced the gate valves I also replaced the actual thru-hull which was only a piece of pipe glassed into the hull. This was original but not very acceptable although it lasted 25 years! Nigel
I have a 74 Cat 27 with an outboard. There are 3 thru-hulls. The head outlet is 1-1/2", the head inlet and the sink drain are both 3/4". When I replaced the gate valves I also replaced the actual thru-hull which was only a piece of pipe glassed into the hull. This was original but not very acceptable although it lasted 25 years! Nigel
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LaDonna Bubak - CatalinaOwners
replace thru hull
If you have gate valves, you probably have the so called "to-hull", instead of a real thru hull. If you're changing out, you should definitely do them too. LaDonna
If you have gate valves, you probably have the so called "to-hull", instead of a real thru hull. If you're changing out, you should definitely do them too. LaDonna
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George
Through hulls
I am also looking at replacing the to-hulls and gate valves on my '76 C27 after it is hauled out this fall, so your question and people's comments interest me. My current thinking, and I welcome comments on it, is that I will replace the to-hulls with bronze "mushroom" through hulls. I thought about going with the flush ones, but since I'm doing the work myself, I don't really expect to have the tools or expertise to remove the exterior fiberglass of the hull in just the right amount for the flush mounts. Since we don't race, I suspect that the speed loss will not really matter that arises from having the additional drag from the mushroom shaped version. From Nigel Calder's tome on boat maintenance I understand that I really also need to put a backing plate in and will probably use 3/4 or 1 inch treated plywood for the backing plates. My thought then is to invest in good seacocks (probably bronze also to avoid the "more noble metal" issue) to attach to the through hulls rather than using gate valves, etc. Then I will use whatever adapters I need to fit the interior lines to the seacocks. I understand from pricing the catalogs for this that I will probably be looking at somewhere in the vicinity of a few hundred dollars when I am done for the hardware, but that in the long run it will pay for itself in longevity and ease of use. I also believe that the 1970's C27's have a solid fiberglass hull, so I don't think that there should be a problem with needing to worry about removing any coring material when I cut through the hull to fit the through hulls, and therefore no need to use any epoxy, fiberglass or other sealant to seal (waterproof) the internal wall of the hole itself between the outside of the hull and the inside of the hull to avoid any leakage into coring. Instead I think I can just use an appropriate sealent on the through hull itself and the backing plate, etc. where the surfaces all meet. Are there any good tricks or techniques for removing the to-hulls other than simply chiseling them out??? George
I am also looking at replacing the to-hulls and gate valves on my '76 C27 after it is hauled out this fall, so your question and people's comments interest me. My current thinking, and I welcome comments on it, is that I will replace the to-hulls with bronze "mushroom" through hulls. I thought about going with the flush ones, but since I'm doing the work myself, I don't really expect to have the tools or expertise to remove the exterior fiberglass of the hull in just the right amount for the flush mounts. Since we don't race, I suspect that the speed loss will not really matter that arises from having the additional drag from the mushroom shaped version. From Nigel Calder's tome on boat maintenance I understand that I really also need to put a backing plate in and will probably use 3/4 or 1 inch treated plywood for the backing plates. My thought then is to invest in good seacocks (probably bronze also to avoid the "more noble metal" issue) to attach to the through hulls rather than using gate valves, etc. Then I will use whatever adapters I need to fit the interior lines to the seacocks. I understand from pricing the catalogs for this that I will probably be looking at somewhere in the vicinity of a few hundred dollars when I am done for the hardware, but that in the long run it will pay for itself in longevity and ease of use. I also believe that the 1970's C27's have a solid fiberglass hull, so I don't think that there should be a problem with needing to worry about removing any coring material when I cut through the hull to fit the through hulls, and therefore no need to use any epoxy, fiberglass or other sealant to seal (waterproof) the internal wall of the hole itself between the outside of the hull and the inside of the hull to avoid any leakage into coring. Instead I think I can just use an appropriate sealent on the through hull itself and the backing plate, etc. where the surfaces all meet. Are there any good tricks or techniques for removing the to-hulls other than simply chiseling them out??? George
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Peter
thru hulls
Check the archives (thru hulls). Gary @ S/V TASHTEGO has an excellent write up on the process and includes the sizing required. I've printed it out and will be doing the replacements in the spring when I haul out.
Check the archives (thru hulls). Gary @ S/V TASHTEGO has an excellent write up on the process and includes the sizing required. I've printed it out and will be doing the replacements in the spring when I haul out.
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Garry @ S/V TASHTEGO
Thru Hulls
The previous message is in the 2001 Archives with the title "Thru Hulls." It is pretty detailed and should be enough to get the job done. P.S. its Garry with two Rs. You wouldn't have found it looking for Gary.
The previous message is in the 2001 Archives with the title "Thru Hulls." It is pretty detailed and should be enough to get the job done. P.S. its Garry with two Rs. You wouldn't have found it looking for Gary.
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Peter
BRONZE NOT BRASS!
An issue that's recently come up is the diffculty of getting pipe fittings (the nipples, not the thru hulls or seacocks) of bronze rather than brass West Marine can't get bronze nipples, and as a consequence they recommend against using their nipples in the setup. So be careful how you hook the plumbing up to the thru hulls and seacocks!
An issue that's recently come up is the diffculty of getting pipe fittings (the nipples, not the thru hulls or seacocks) of bronze rather than brass West Marine can't get bronze nipples, and as a consequence they recommend against using their nipples in the setup. So be careful how you hook the plumbing up to the thru hulls and seacocks!
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