When the time comes to scrape the garden off your bottom and lay down a new coat of protective paint, do you tackle the job yourself or have someone else do it? Do you split the task between yourself and the yard, and if so, how? Perhaps most important, what kind of paint has worked best for you? Share your deepest bottom painting secrets here, then vote in this week's Quick Quiz found at the bottom of the home page.
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Wouldn't even consider doing it myself.
We have been having the same yard to it for over 12 years. They charge us about $500-550 for the entire job. This includes the lift, power wash, new zincs, paint, tape, hazardous waste fee, prop check and inspection, prep, paint application, clean-up and the splash. We move the boat in on Sunday and it is usually back in the water by Tuesday.
We have been having the same yard to it for over 12 years. They charge us about $500-550 for the entire job. This includes the lift, power wash, new zincs, paint, tape, hazardous waste fee, prop check and inspection, prep, paint application, clean-up and the splash. We move the boat in on Sunday and it is usually back in the water by Tuesday.
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Mark Johnson
The only thing I do is....
tape the waterline. I've seen some masking jobs over the years that a blind man could do better. As far as sanding and painting...I let someone else breath that sh..t!
tape the waterline. I've seen some masking jobs over the years that a blind man could do better. As far as sanding and painting...I let someone else breath that sh..t!
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Douglas
For $550
or $550 I would gladly pay to have someone else do the work. It costs me $500 just to have to boat hauled. Another $100 to have the mast taken down to move the boat to an area where work can be prepared. A good quality bottom paint over $100 p/g and we aren't even talking labor yet. My situation is that I am at a lake without any facilities so any work that isn't done by the owner is painfully expensive
or $550 I would gladly pay to have someone else do the work. It costs me $500 just to have to boat hauled. Another $100 to have the mast taken down to move the boat to an area where work can be prepared. A good quality bottom paint over $100 p/g and we aren't even talking labor yet. My situation is that I am at a lake without any facilities so any work that isn't done by the owner is painfully expensive
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Les Blackwell
Tried them all!
After forty years of painting the bottoms of my boats, I think I have tried most everything. In the early days (fifties and sixties)we (crew)would sand the bottom with 80 grit, then a light first coat of whatever was popular then in bottom paints. Then another sanding with 100 grit. Then one coat of regular bottom paint. At this point you switch from regular sand paper to wet/dry 200 grit paper and do the bottom. More paint and 440 grit wet/dry. Next you put the boat in the water for two weeks, haul again and everyone burnishes with burlap until it shines. One year we tried spray painting (with professionals) but we didn't see any difference and it was more expensive. We also tried white bottom paint because they said it was faster. Probably is becuase you see the growth faster and you have the bottom scrubed more often. That was for racing bottoms. Now I cruise (well, I race but not so intently), and we make sure the bottom is smooth and then put two coats of whatever is popular. Right now I'm using Ultima for the first time. Pure gold by the cost of it. Last year the haul out people did a power wash and did it too strongly and the bottom because very rough because I was using an ablative paint. This year I had the bottom scraped smooth and then two coats of paint put on. Light power washes from now on. For racing you probably have to use a hard paint. But the problem is that after three or four years it has to come off--in my past life, that meant sanding. I would suggest for those with new boats or those starting over to put on a coat of one color (let's say RED) and then put the next two coats on of the color you want (in my case BLUE). That way when you see the red showing through, its time to repaint. Particularly with ablative paints. I've also used Peal-A-Way and it was excellent although expensive. It took all the paint off to the fiberglass and was not messy as well. Just roll up the paper and toss it. This year I hired a company to help paint the bottom. They did the scrapping and prep work and then we all did the painting. By the way, if you have extra paint, put an extra coat around just below the boot line. This is where sun gets in and helps more growth to survie. In the pacific northwest, I paint every year. It's $500 for the haul out and $300 for the paint. I paid a lot for this boat and it seems to me to be not too much money to check the bottom and make sure the boat sails well. And no, I don't sand the bottom anymore with my Hunters. I think paints have improved and the bottom seems to me to be about the same smoothness. Painting is a bit like hitting you head against a brick wall--you'll feel so good when it all over. By the way, this is where skippers/owners ought to practice standing in a cold shower tearing up hundred dollar bills. It will get you in the mood. Hope this helps someone. Have fun!
After forty years of painting the bottoms of my boats, I think I have tried most everything. In the early days (fifties and sixties)we (crew)would sand the bottom with 80 grit, then a light first coat of whatever was popular then in bottom paints. Then another sanding with 100 grit. Then one coat of regular bottom paint. At this point you switch from regular sand paper to wet/dry 200 grit paper and do the bottom. More paint and 440 grit wet/dry. Next you put the boat in the water for two weeks, haul again and everyone burnishes with burlap until it shines. One year we tried spray painting (with professionals) but we didn't see any difference and it was more expensive. We also tried white bottom paint because they said it was faster. Probably is becuase you see the growth faster and you have the bottom scrubed more often. That was for racing bottoms. Now I cruise (well, I race but not so intently), and we make sure the bottom is smooth and then put two coats of whatever is popular. Right now I'm using Ultima for the first time. Pure gold by the cost of it. Last year the haul out people did a power wash and did it too strongly and the bottom because very rough because I was using an ablative paint. This year I had the bottom scraped smooth and then two coats of paint put on. Light power washes from now on. For racing you probably have to use a hard paint. But the problem is that after three or four years it has to come off--in my past life, that meant sanding. I would suggest for those with new boats or those starting over to put on a coat of one color (let's say RED) and then put the next two coats on of the color you want (in my case BLUE). That way when you see the red showing through, its time to repaint. Particularly with ablative paints. I've also used Peal-A-Way and it was excellent although expensive. It took all the paint off to the fiberglass and was not messy as well. Just roll up the paper and toss it. This year I hired a company to help paint the bottom. They did the scrapping and prep work and then we all did the painting. By the way, if you have extra paint, put an extra coat around just below the boot line. This is where sun gets in and helps more growth to survie. In the pacific northwest, I paint every year. It's $500 for the haul out and $300 for the paint. I paid a lot for this boat and it seems to me to be not too much money to check the bottom and make sure the boat sails well. And no, I don't sand the bottom anymore with my Hunters. I think paints have improved and the bottom seems to me to be about the same smoothness. Painting is a bit like hitting you head against a brick wall--you'll feel so good when it all over. By the way, this is where skippers/owners ought to practice standing in a cold shower tearing up hundred dollar bills. It will get you in the mood. Hope this helps someone. Have fun!
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Barry
Depends Where and What You Sail
When I was a "trailer sailor" I avoided painting and cleaned by boat myself on the trailer. Now with a 34' I pay $1/ft for a power wash when it's hauled. On a fresh water lake using VC17, prep and painting takes no more than an hour or two. Under $100 for materials and it is not necessary to repaint every year. VC17 never needs scraping or sanding. It was only painful the first time when I removed all that blue stuff that the previous owner applied. If I ever get to the point where I can't do it myself it will be time for a motorhome. Barry
When I was a "trailer sailor" I avoided painting and cleaned by boat myself on the trailer. Now with a 34' I pay $1/ft for a power wash when it's hauled. On a fresh water lake using VC17, prep and painting takes no more than an hour or two. Under $100 for materials and it is not necessary to repaint every year. VC17 never needs scraping or sanding. It was only painful the first time when I removed all that blue stuff that the previous owner applied. If I ever get to the point where I can't do it myself it will be time for a motorhome. Barry
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Dave Viglierchio
Hey There Steve D..?
I'm down in the Bay but would gladly come up to the Delta for this kind of pricing. Would you mind sharing the name of the Boatyard? And what size vessel are you getting done for these prices? I need a full job this spring and the quotes down here are pretty steep. Thanks!! Dave V.
I'm down in the Bay but would gladly come up to the Delta for this kind of pricing. Would you mind sharing the name of the Boatyard? And what size vessel are you getting done for these prices? I need a full job this spring and the quotes down here are pretty steep. Thanks!! Dave V.
Dave Vee.
Dave: The marine repair facility is Waltons Marina in Rio Vista. Bob Walton is the owner. His number is 707/374-5475. Our boat is a H'31. This guy has not changed his prices after all of these years. We have been very pleased with the work that he does.
Dave: The marine repair facility is Waltons Marina in Rio Vista. Bob Walton is the owner. His number is 707/374-5475. Our boat is a H'31. This guy has not changed his prices after all of these years. We have been very pleased with the work that he does.
Dave Vee II.
PS: why aren't you registered in the owners directory? It's you moral obligation to do so!
PS: why aren't you registered in the owners directory? It's you moral obligation to do so!
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Mike Casucci
It's not easy being green
Doing it now. Using Interlux CSC Extra ($149.00/gal at West Marine). Use 10% thinner and you can get 3 coats out of a gallon on a 30 foot boat. Supposedly can go two years, but boat has been painted every year and sanded down completely every 4 years.
Doing it now. Using Interlux CSC Extra ($149.00/gal at West Marine). Use 10% thinner and you can get 3 coats out of a gallon on a 30 foot boat. Supposedly can go two years, but boat has been painted every year and sanded down completely every 4 years.
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Jay Beery
My Barn is my Boatyard
This is the first year I will have a slip so it was also my first time with bottom paint. I have a little C22 that just fit under the loft of my pole barn. I drilled large holes in the floor of the loft so I could poke lifting straps through the holes. I then placed large steel tubes through the loops to distribute the load of the boat over more area. I then hung four come-a-longs from the straps and put big hoisting straps under the boat to each come-a-long. The straps were just forward and aft of the keel. Then we slowly hoisted her off the trailer! I then spent the next two days under the boat with a resperator and a sander. I got two coats out of a gallon of el-cheapo West Marine bottom paint. The worst part was the swing keel. Someone had put lots of "Bondo" in some low spots. Water got under the bondo and rusted, so I had to lay there and chip and grind most of that stuff off. It turned out great but let's see how long it lasts!
This is the first year I will have a slip so it was also my first time with bottom paint. I have a little C22 that just fit under the loft of my pole barn. I drilled large holes in the floor of the loft so I could poke lifting straps through the holes. I then placed large steel tubes through the loops to distribute the load of the boat over more area. I then hung four come-a-longs from the straps and put big hoisting straps under the boat to each come-a-long. The straps were just forward and aft of the keel. Then we slowly hoisted her off the trailer! I then spent the next two days under the boat with a resperator and a sander. I got two coats out of a gallon of el-cheapo West Marine bottom paint. The worst part was the swing keel. Someone had put lots of "Bondo" in some low spots. Water got under the bondo and rusted, so I had to lay there and chip and grind most of that stuff off. It turned out great but let's see how long it lasts!
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Ron Koenig
VC17 = Speed???
Does anyone know how much a speed increase one can achive with VC17 vs a standard bottom paint? 1/2 knot? 1 knot? How important is this difference if you don't race much? Thanks!!
Does anyone know how much a speed increase one can achive with VC17 vs a standard bottom paint? 1/2 knot? 1 knot? How important is this difference if you don't race much? Thanks!!
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Alex
Which brand of epoxy protecting under coat..?
..if any ? The marine tech books advice for it as a 'must' for long time protection against osmosis, especially on a new boat , before putting it in water.
..if any ? The marine tech books advice for it as a 'must' for long time protection against osmosis, especially on a new boat , before putting it in water.
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Tom
Scraping
I've just spent a couple of weekends getting about 30 layers of old paint off the bottom of a Cat 30. It's a big job, even with the help of several (former, I suspect) friends. However, I was looking at north of $1,200 just for the scraping and sanding...before painting and cost of materials, so worth it to me. I'm waiting for the weather to warm up past 50 degrees to paint on Interlux Interprotect 2000 barrier coat (I hear it doesn't cure properly below this temp), then Petit ACP50 ablative. With really old paint like this, I found a two handled scraper very effective at getting the old stuff off.
I've just spent a couple of weekends getting about 30 layers of old paint off the bottom of a Cat 30. It's a big job, even with the help of several (former, I suspect) friends. However, I was looking at north of $1,200 just for the scraping and sanding...before painting and cost of materials, so worth it to me. I'm waiting for the weather to warm up past 50 degrees to paint on Interlux Interprotect 2000 barrier coat (I hear it doesn't cure properly below this temp), then Petit ACP50 ablative. With really old paint like this, I found a two handled scraper very effective at getting the old stuff off.
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Bob Camarena
Split
Most recently I've split the job on my Catalina 30. I've done the blister repair (approx 20-30 small ones), but have had the yard do the sanding and painting. Even if I had the time, which I don't, I don't relish the idea of all that toxic dust in my lungs.
Most recently I've split the job on my Catalina 30. I've done the blister repair (approx 20-30 small ones), but have had the yard do the sanding and painting. Even if I had the time, which I don't, I don't relish the idea of all that toxic dust in my lungs.
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Roger Mummah
Did it Myself
The last two times we painted Endless Summer's under parts we did it ourselves at the Summerfield Boat Yard in Ft. Lauderdale. I like to do it myself so I know it's done right (at least the way I want it). We usually also pull the propeller and shaft and have them trued and repitched. After sanding the blue Petit Trinidad in my sanding suit, I look like "Papa Smurf". It's best to do this job in July in south Florida. That way you save lots of bucks on those sauna places that make you sweat all those toxins out of your body. Drinking a case of beers seems to help to throughly flush out my pores.
The last two times we painted Endless Summer's under parts we did it ourselves at the Summerfield Boat Yard in Ft. Lauderdale. I like to do it myself so I know it's done right (at least the way I want it). We usually also pull the propeller and shaft and have them trued and repitched. After sanding the blue Petit Trinidad in my sanding suit, I look like "Papa Smurf". It's best to do this job in July in south Florida. That way you save lots of bucks on those sauna places that make you sweat all those toxins out of your body. Drinking a case of beers seems to help to throughly flush out my pores.
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Bud Harrell
Iron Keel Problems
My bottom problems are few. No blisters, nothing that can't be washed off when we pull the boat. Except for the iron keel. Every year the split between the hull and the keel is rusted. I have tried everything, but every year, get out the grinder, get in there like a dentist and drill out the rust. Don't know how many times I can keep doing this. I paint with primer, epoxy, or whatever, fill with soft sealer, and add a couple of coats of bottom paint prior to putting her back in the water. Anyone got the same problem -- and a viable solution?
My bottom problems are few. No blisters, nothing that can't be washed off when we pull the boat. Except for the iron keel. Every year the split between the hull and the keel is rusted. I have tried everything, but every year, get out the grinder, get in there like a dentist and drill out the rust. Don't know how many times I can keep doing this. I paint with primer, epoxy, or whatever, fill with soft sealer, and add a couple of coats of bottom paint prior to putting her back in the water. Anyone got the same problem -- and a viable solution?
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Eric
Iron Keel
I would drill out and sand the joint and rust area. Fill with HIGH desity epoxy. Be very carful for this stuff will not fair/sand to a shape after the fact. After the epoxy cures you can shape with some glass and low density epoxy. After all has cured cover with 2000 and you should be all set. If you want to take an easy road. Clean up the joint and use 3000. 2 swipes of this stuff on a properly prepared area and you will never see rust again in that spot.
I would drill out and sand the joint and rust area. Fill with HIGH desity epoxy. Be very carful for this stuff will not fair/sand to a shape after the fact. After the epoxy cures you can shape with some glass and low density epoxy. After all has cured cover with 2000 and you should be all set. If you want to take an easy road. Clean up the joint and use 3000. 2 swipes of this stuff on a properly prepared area and you will never see rust again in that spot.
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Travis Martin
I'm a do it yourselfer
I'm using Interlux CSC Extra. It seems to last and goes on easy. I use a "drywall" flat sanding connection to an extension, which makes it very easy to sand with a 100 grit then 200 grit. Wash it down and start painting. T. Martin
I'm using Interlux CSC Extra. It seems to last and goes on easy. I use a "drywall" flat sanding connection to an extension, which makes it very easy to sand with a 100 grit then 200 grit. Wash it down and start painting. T. Martin
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Jack
Bottom Time
1. I do it myself 2. n/a 3. Since I pull out every two years, I use the cheapest paint that is on sale, and throw in a little red pepper.
1. I do it myself 2. n/a 3. Since I pull out every two years, I use the cheapest paint that is on sale, and throw in a little red pepper.
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