Bottom Paint Help
- Thread starter solodare
- Start date
I noticed in one of your earlier photos, that your V-birth looks like it has been rebuilt. It looks like yours is extended aft about a foot. A nice improvement for sleeping space... the V-birth on these boats only serves short people... but it does take away a convenient place for the port-o-potty.
A guy named Sumner on this forum has done extensive renovations to the Mac V22's bigger sister (26C). Do a search for his name and you will get a lot of good stuff. One of his mods was to use a double-dooty bag and a PVC bucket w/toilet seat instead of a traditional potty. And he was able to place it under the quarter berth. Nice mod. You could do the same with yours. You will notice in later pics of my boat that I replaced the bulkhead at the keel trunk. You should do the same. It ads lateral stiffness to the boat. It also gives you a place to hang stuff and you could use the forward face of the bulkhead as a hanging locker.
What you are calling the "stop" bolt is actually a lock down bolt. I think you had duct tape over it in earlier pics. You want to find a SS bolt that fits in there and (yes) it can be used as a stop but what you really want is to be able to insert it through your keel fully extended. The idea is that if you ever suffer a hard knock down, the keel wont swing back up into the trunk and crash through... (that would be bad). Some people on here have suggested using a nylon bolt (like the ones you use to hold down your toilet to the floor). I'm still out on that one.. but the idea is that it would be strong enough to keep the keel from crashing during a knockdown but soft enough to break if you hit the bottom .... thus minimizing damage to the keel trunk. If you are going out in Big water... and might get caught in a late afternoon T-storm... you want to lock the keel down. A day sail in shoal water you may want to use that bolt as a stop rather than lock it down.
Another cool thing about the Mac 22 is you can adjust the point of lateral resistance by moving the keel up and down... If you feel a lot of weather helm, then raise the keel a bit and that helps balance the helm. Converse is also true.
it really seems stock to be honest. There is no signs of the v-birth every being anywhere else and the place where your birth stops is still raw and unpainted so it seems like you would see some trace of a previous structure. especially in this boat where nothing that was ever done was done clean.
I have never seen another like it though, not even one.
here is a pick of the gap in the deck/hull joint. Right in the nose. should I just fill that with 5200?
I have never seen another like it though, not even one.
here is a pick of the gap in the deck/hull joint. Right in the nose. should I just fill that with 5200?
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Guys........ it's bErth...... BIRTH is a completely different thing.
BTW that gap in the bow is way too big to fill with sealant, you need to fabricate some kind of stuffing or big ass gasket to fill it in before you start trying to seal it..... a fish could swim through that hole.... I was referring to the spaces under the rub rail you posted in another picture.
BTW that gap in the bow is way too big to fill with sealant, you need to fabricate some kind of stuffing or big ass gasket to fill it in before you start trying to seal it..... a fish could swim through that hole.... I was referring to the spaces under the rub rail you posted in another picture.
jOE, Thanks for the spell check! the gap under "toe rail"
(I thought it was called a rub rail) can be closed by tightening the nuts back down. I just want to show the gap as I found it for informational purpose in regards to the amount of water I have coming in. Do you think it still needs a build up?
(I thought it was called a rub rail) can be closed by tightening the nuts back down. I just want to show the gap as I found it for informational purpose in regards to the amount of water I have coming in. Do you think it still needs a build up?
The toe rail on your boat is most likely molded into the deck... as opposed to a separate wood or aluminum piece that is integrated into the rub rail and hull deck joint. In any event, we know and you know that the issue is with the hull/deck seam, not the toe rail or rub rail... so feel free to use either term in the discussion.
Anyway, you can put the sealant on the two surfaces and tighten down the bolts to close the gap... let it dry and use a water hose to test it. You'll probably find other problem areas... so just be patient... clean and caulk the best you can until you feel that the boat will be safe in your sailing area. Get a bilge pump.. and be vigilant.... But for god's sake ... have fun.. and go sailing. Stay in protected areas... no waves and no extreme heeling.
Anyway, you can put the sealant on the two surfaces and tighten down the bolts to close the gap... let it dry and use a water hose to test it. You'll probably find other problem areas... so just be patient... clean and caulk the best you can until you feel that the boat will be safe in your sailing area. Get a bilge pump.. and be vigilant.... But for god's sake ... have fun.. and go sailing. Stay in protected areas... no waves and no extreme heeling.
Incorrect
Polyester resin is transparent. Fibreglass re-inforced polyester is translucent. With no gelcoat or paint, fibreglass will pass light through it very easily. Even with a normal thickness of gelcoat outside, and coat of paint inside, light can be seen through uncored FRP very easily.
Could be... I'm not sure
I was thinking of this pic
The plywood looks rather new here so I was assuming someone has bebuilt your V-BERTH (thanks for the spell check
5200 is rather permanent. I'd go with something less aggressive in case you mess it up and need to start over. The idea mentioned above of adding a few bolts to pull it together seems like a good idea. Some gorillla glue might then work well. That stuff expands to fill in any little gaps left between the bolts. Just make sure you mask below the seam so the drips don't end up on your hull.