Bilge Mount After False Bilge Alteration

[Blackacre]

I recently completed the "False Bilge Alteration" that many recommended on this site for my 1986 Hunter H34.

I'm curious how others mounted their bilge pump and float switch after removing the liner from the bottom of the bilge. Do most just use screws like before and if so what size? How think is the hull here?

Any other alternative solutions?

 

[Don Crowther]

Nice job. What kind of paint did you use? I'm going to epoxy a piece of wood or something to screw into. I think someone said the hull is just over and inch thick maybe 1"3/16.
Again very nice

 

[Blackacre]

Nice job. What kind of paint did you use?

Thanks. I just bought some basic 1 part marine paint made by Rust-Oleum at my local Home Depot. I cleaned up the surface area really good with degreaser and then alcohol.


http://www.google.com/shopping/prod...49_aIMtb92rGR2rKMbUSkiErH8SiV4FDeSBoChb3w_wcB

 

[Allan12210]

That came out very nice. That's one of the easier mods for our boats and very functional as well. A dry bilge really keeps the interior odor free. When I cut mine away the smell was awful. I thought I was going to find a corpse under there.

When we visited the Hunter factory back in 1986 they were still building our model and they told me the bottom was 1-3/8" thick. I used 1/2" screws to secure the bilge pump right to the bottom.

 

[Allan12210]

BTW, I see in your pictures there is still a little plywood left around the perimeter of the hole (I think). It only goes under another 1/2" or so. If it was like mine, it was rotten and smelled. You might want to get a wood chisel and break it away from the fiberglass and remove it. That shouldn't harm your nice paint job. I left mine natural.

 

[Blackacre]

When we visited the Hunter factory back in 1986 they were still building our model and they told me the bottom was 1-3/8" thick. I used 1/2" screws to secure the bilge pump right to the bottom.

Thanks for the info. I'll try 1/2" screws as well. I was thinking of installing some type of mounting base but it would appear thats not necessary.

 

[a65sailor]

I have seen this mod in the H34 section and was not sure where to cut. It looks like it is just the rectangular area where the pump is mounted now. Is that correct?

 

[Blackacre]

I have seen this mod in the H34 section and was not sure where to cut. It looks like it is just the rectangular area where the pump is mounted now. Is that correct?

Yes. Just the floor of the bilge. Its a pretty strait forward mod. Use the correct tools as it will save you a lot of time and headache. Also be very deliberate with your cutts. The best tool is a powerful Dremmel with a right angle cut off wheel. I also used a right angle grinder with a 4.50" cut off wheel and a oscillating multifunction tool with a straight blade. You'll also need a few prybars and maybe a small chisel. I also used a sander to finish the edge before cleaning and painting.

 

[Blackacre]

Mounted my bilge pump today with 3/4" SS screws (coarse thread). No issues to report.

Thanks for the info everyone.

 

[hunter healer]

A thought, my 83 hunter is on the hard with the bow pitched up 15 degrees and i keep getting water appearing under the aft floor board by the aft keel boat within a few hours of vacuuming it dry, meanwhile the bilge is dry socould there be water under the bilge and do you think i would benefit from cutting the bottom and do the modification? I'm thinking that maybe there is a tunnel of open space there under the bilge from the bow anchor locker heading aft. any ideas for me

 

[Don Crowther]

Short answer: Yes.
Long answer : see above posts

 

[Claude L.-Auger]

A thought, my 83 hunter is on the hard with the bow pitched up 15 degrees and i keep getting water appearing under the aft floor board by the aft keel boat within a few hours of vacuuming it dry, meanwhile the bilge is dry socould there be water under the bilge and do you think i would benefit from cutting the bottom and do the modification? I'm thinking that maybe there is a tunnel of open space there under the bilge from the bow anchor locker heading aft. any ideas for me

Christian, sooner or later you'll have to get rid of that false bilge. I'm loading up on info to tackle the project in the Spring. I understand you probably pitched the bow up 15˚ to make sure of water run-off towards the stern. However, when my 34 is in the water, it is level and water runs down each side to exit at the back. When I am on the hard I make sure the boat is level and water still runs down the sides. As as result of being level, the bilge is the lowest point and water will run there. With the particular predicaments of the false bilge, water finds it way there. In your case as you mentioned, because of the pitch it stays somewhat farther aft. On my boat the anchor locker does not let any water go to the bilge. Except for that as you surmised, water from everywhere else under the floor will get to the bilge and/or to the false bilge.

 

[hunter healer]

I had a thought, if the area underneath the false bottom was an open cavern and if it had water there why would you close it up tightly would you not want the water to go into the new bilge and be pumped out?

 

[Claude L.-Auger]

... would you not want the water to go into the new bilge and be pumped out?

That's the idea and that's what Blackacre and all others previously have done.

 

[a65sailor]

Would a hole saw be a good way to start? That way you could see what you are doing.

 

[Claude L.-Auger]

Would a hole saw be a good way to start? That way you could see what you are doing.

That's what I used last fall once the boat was on the hard. 3 holes 1 &1/2" pretty much in center of false bilge gave me access to enough rotten plywood to make me decide to do the job in the Spring. I pumped 4 gallons of water from there. I will remove the rest of that false bilge bottom, and reinstall bilge pump on real bottom as Allan and Blackacre did.

 

[a65sailor]

Thanks!!! That's good to know. I always need more boat projects!!

 

[Mark48]

Does anyone know why Hunter created the false bildge and have they commented on the removal? Was it simply part of the pan? How fare below the false bottom is the actual bildge bottom? How far up from the bottom does one cut or is it just the removal of the bottom of the false bildge? Just trying to determin if this should be a winter project for my H 34.

 

[markwbird]

So, with everyone modifying their H34 bilges I thought I would join the fun. This is gonna sound dumb but I'm not 100% sure it has not already been done. If it was, it was done very neatly. I'm 95% sure it hasn't but that's a big 5%. So, does anyone know the before and / or after depth so I can take a quick measurement? Your help is appreciated.

 

[PGIJon]

How much space is there under the false Bilge? Thanks!