Best placement of Raycor Filter in H34

spraygun · Feb 9, 2014

I dont have the fancy filter that you do.But I put my filter above the engine. Maybe you could do the same.see pic.

kloudie1 · Feb 9, 2014

some folks have put them on the stbd side inside of the box, forward and as low as possible, just behind the pull-out panel with steps. Makes servicing the filter much easier..

srhummer · Feb 9, 2014

Had one installed and they put it SYBD side aft - get to it from thru hull access in aft cabin. Not bad but could be easier.

Allan12210 · Feb 9, 2014

Hi Jon,

"Some folks" reporting in here

I moved my fuel filter up to the top of the box in front and it sure is easy to service. I don't have an extra fuel pump and it still works fine even though it is probably higher than the fuel tank. It always stays full of fuel.

Below that I mounted my raw water strainer which is also easy to get to. I like your idea of "Teeing" off the raw water in case extra pump capacity is ever required (different post). I know the one thing I have trouble with is reaching that through hull seacock under the back berth. Its usually full of junk and takes a major effort to move enough out of the way to get a hand under the cushion, and the lid to just grab the handle. If there is an appropriate three way valve I might put it right at my strainer inlet so I could divert the draw still through the strainer in an emergency while isolating the normal water intake.

Allan

spraygun · Feb 10, 2014

To answer your question. I don't have an extra fuel pump inline. Never needed one. Never had a problem having the filter mounted way up high.My boat is an 84/34.

Stretch · Feb 10, 2014

Another poster reminded me, the filter in the engine compartment is not allowed to be a glass or plastic sight bowl type.

I suppose that could end up on a survey when you don't want it.

These replace the sight glass.

Richard Bryer · Feb 10, 2014

I put my Racor on the port side of the engine compartment just about at the back of the engine. Not the easiest access but ok and is lower than the gas tank. Works fine

Allan12210 · Feb 10, 2014

Stretch said:
Another poster reminded me, the filter in the engine compartment is not allowed to be a glass or plastic sight bowl type.

I suppose that could end up on a survey when you don't want it.

These replace the sight glass.

Stretch,

Thanks for the heads up on the metal Racor bowl. I just ordered a replacement metal one (RK 10109) from Raycor.com in Modesto, Ca. Free shipping.

Allan

Allan12210 · Feb 10, 2014

PGIJon said:
Thanks all and some folks! I definitely going going to move the filter and the raw water filter forward... seeing Allan's (some folks) pic, I'm also going to be putting installing a stop cock.. Mine does not have that at the moment.... Allan.. Did you use Teflon tape? I'm also going to replace the fuel lines. Should I get an A1 line? Any thoughts on which manufacturer?

I'm also going to get the metal bowl... my guess is they charge a fortune for a $2 piece of metal.... Hopefully, I wrong!

Thanks All and Some Folks! Jon

Jon,

The stopcock is a good idea because it allows shutting off the fuel line while changing filters and preventing drain back. I pre-fill my filter and bottom assemble before putting it back on, so bleeding is minimal. I did use Teflon tape on the pipe threads. The fittings that screw directly into the Racor housing are straight threads with O-rings. Those do not require Teflon tape. Only the ones to the barbed fittings and shutoff valve. I also took the opportunity to make use of the extra input port on the top for a vacuum gauge. In my picture there is an extra hose coming out on the left that goes to that. Its handy when monitoring filter loading.

I just used whatever Coast Guard fuel rated hose was available at West Marine. Originally the H34 came with 1/4" hose. I upsized mine to 5/16" just because that was the size of the fittings I ended up with when adding the shut off valve. You also then have to change the brass (most likely) barb at the fuel tank shut off valve.

You are right about that $2.00 piece of metal. They just added a 5 to the front of it:cussing: I think I found the cheapest place. It wasn't available on our own HOW store.

Were you thinking of a stopcock drain on the bottom of the metal bowl? That sounds like a good plan as well because it will be a nuisance to pull the plug off to check for water. I have a piece of clear tubing under my current setup that allows me to put a plastic bottle on the motor mount and drain directly into it with no mess.

Allan

Allan12210 · Feb 10, 2014

PGIJon said:
Thanks for all the feed back Allan! may I ask where you purchased or the make of the cut off valve. No.. I meant the stopcock where the fuel entered the filter, however I agree one below might be good too. FYI, I was warned by the Racor tech person, not to use any Teflon on the fuel line. Apparently the find lots of white tape in the filter. -Jon

I bought my stopcock at the local hardware store. It is a 1/4" NPT thread, female on one side and male on the other. That's where I bought the male 1/4" NPT to 5/16" hose barb adapters as well.

I hadn't heard about the Teflon tape coming off into the filter. However, I would rather see it in the filter(s) than in the injector pump. If you can get it put together without leaks, then that is great. I was just trying to add some insurance.

rfrye1 · Feb 10, 2014

I too placed a stop-cock about 18" uphill from my Racor. Makes life just a little easier. Make sure it's ok to use with fuel, and double clamp it.
Bob

Dan Johnson · Feb 10, 2014

Jon, here's a pix of the rear of my engine compartment--the Racor is the tan thing hanging from the aft bulkhead. There's a "T" where the exit hose comes off that leads to the vacuum gage in the cockpit. I have a squeeze bulb primer between the Racor and the lift pump to make bleeding easier than using the Racor pump thingie.

If you don't want to use teflon tape, a dab of Permatex #2 on connector threads will seal them up and be removeable later. I also like to use the red Aviation Permatex--it's a liquid that is easier to use for fine thread work.

Allan12210 · Feb 10, 2014

Well since Dan broke the ice, here is my un-cropped photo of the Racor filter including primer bulb. Its within easy reach. Just don't squeeze it unless a bleed screw is open as it can force fuel past the filter O-rings. Its a lifesaver on many occasions including bleeding air and evacuating a giant slug of water from the fuel tank when my filler gasket failed. Some have said it is not allowed in the engine area, but I have taken the risk for 10 years now.

You can also see the vacuum gauge...automotive type. Vacuum can only go from 0 to 15 psi cause that's all the air we have.

Dan Johnson · Feb 13, 2014

Primer Bulb & Gauge...

I used a marine primer bulb OK'd for use with diesel fuel. The vacuum gauge is a Racor one mounted in the starboard aft cockpit pocket--see pix.

Note also the fuel level gauge and the Autopilot control head mountings. The toggle switch activates the fuel gauge only when needed instead of a constant battery draw. The hole is from the old Autpilot's power jack--now filled with an LED cockpit light unit.

Best placement of Raycor Filter in H34

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