The only thing I notice is you have a large inverter, small solar and your batteries seem undersized given the size of you inverter. Don't know your loads, but having a 3KW inverter running off 400 amp/hour batter bank fed by that small solar panel doesn't seem well balanced.
I also am not seeing where your power is coming from the engine alternator.
Are you using that lithium battery as your start battery? I prefer lead acid for a start battery. I'm not seeing the circuit for the engine. Am I missing it?
dj
I also am not seeing where your power is coming from the engine alternator.
Are you using that lithium battery as your start battery? I prefer lead acid for a start battery. I'm not seeing the circuit for the engine. Am I missing it?
dj
The large inverter is for a full electric kitchen as well as all the other house goodies. The inverter calls for a minimum of 300AH. I'll be expanding the battery capacity as money allows. Would love to have 1000ah at some point. Solar panels is the same situation, as money allows. Currently it's used once every week or so, so the small solar should be enough to keep it topped off. A big trip later this year will require more solar and batteries.
I've got an Epropulsion Navy 6 outboard mounted to the stern with steering controls. Makes docking soooooo easy. Also allows me to take the prop out of the water and reduce drag or leave it in for the hydroregen. That whole 48v system is Epropulsion batteries and not really tied to the above diagram at all. I'll plug the epropulsion 120v charger into the house 120v to charge.
That certainly explains a lot. Of course how the system will be used is paramount.
I haven't looked in greater detail as to wire sizing, etc , that is better reviewed by others.
dj
There are several issues.
The fusing on the LFP battery is inadequate. It is essential to use a Class T fuse as these will not arc over after blowing. Other fuse types will blow, however LFP batteries can discharge with so much power they will arc across a blown fuse.
What do you mean by fully electric kitchen? If you are considering an induction cook top and oven, they will require 240 a @ 220vac, or at least the ones I looked at. There are probably ways to reduce that amount by using a smaller cooktop and a separate convection oven. Mads on Sail Life (YouTube) did something like that on his boat. For comparison, I am working with Ocean Planet Energy on a LFP battery system for an all electric galley, meaning an electric stove and electric HW heater. They are recommending 1260ah of LFP at 24v and 2 Victron Quattro 5000.
If you are planning to increase capacity as you can afford it, design the cabling system for the maximum installation. At $8 a foot for 2/0 Marine cable, you don't want to rip it out and replace it with even more expensive 4/0 cable.
There is no need for a separate grounding plate. All the DC- should come to a single bus bar, including a ground from the engine block. There should be DC- Cable from the bus to the battery bank. The shunt for the DC monitoring system should be located between the bus bar and the battery DC-.
The drawing shows batteries and components from Renogy, amongst the knowledgeable marine electricians I've listened to, that brand is not regarded in any where near high esteem. The selling point for Renogy is price, there are much better alternatives.
If you are going to be running a lot of AC devices, then it would be best to up the DC system to 24v. At this time many DC devices, such as VHF, Chartplotters, AIS, water pumps, etc are available to run on 24v and converting DC to AC is more efficient at 24v than 12v.
You will need a lot of solar for your plan and you will need a high output externally regulated alternator.
You might find this video from Delos informative and helpful.
The fusing on the LFP battery is inadequate. It is essential to use a Class T fuse as these will not arc over after blowing. Other fuse types will blow, however LFP batteries can discharge with so much power they will arc across a blown fuse.
What do you mean by fully electric kitchen? If you are considering an induction cook top and oven, they will require 240 a @ 220vac, or at least the ones I looked at. There are probably ways to reduce that amount by using a smaller cooktop and a separate convection oven. Mads on Sail Life (YouTube) did something like that on his boat. For comparison, I am working with Ocean Planet Energy on a LFP battery system for an all electric galley, meaning an electric stove and electric HW heater. They are recommending 1260ah of LFP at 24v and 2 Victron Quattro 5000.
If you are planning to increase capacity as you can afford it, design the cabling system for the maximum installation. At $8 a foot for 2/0 Marine cable, you don't want to rip it out and replace it with even more expensive 4/0 cable.
There is no need for a separate grounding plate. All the DC- should come to a single bus bar, including a ground from the engine block. There should be DC- Cable from the bus to the battery bank. The shunt for the DC monitoring system should be located between the bus bar and the battery DC-.
The drawing shows batteries and components from Renogy, amongst the knowledgeable marine electricians I've listened to, that brand is not regarded in any where near high esteem. The selling point for Renogy is price, there are much better alternatives.
If you are going to be running a lot of AC devices, then it would be best to up the DC system to 24v. At this time many DC devices, such as VHF, Chartplotters, AIS, water pumps, etc are available to run on 24v and converting DC to AC is more efficient at 24v than 12v.
You will need a lot of solar for your plan and you will need a high output externally regulated alternator.
You might find this video from Delos informative and helpful.
I have heard that the fuse pictured above might not be good enough but I have seen it in other similar diagrams so I appreciate that input.
Fully electric kitchen means an electric cooktop and a small toaster oven. Obviously battery's will be my weak point here as I won't be able to run them long with the 400AH. But I dont plan on using the cooking items anytime soon. They are mainly for a longer trip later this year when I will have around 1000Ah.
As for planning for the future. It's a relatively small boat at 28ft so I don't ever expect to have more than those 2 panels. Both of which are rated to 100amps max. So 200amps from battery to bus bar. 2/0 is rated for that.
The grounding plate is because there is no inboard. The Volvo diesel was taken out. And an epropulsion outboard was mounted to the stern. I understand that's not everyone's cup of tea but let's remember that's not what we are here to talk about.
It is renogy because I've actually had really good luck with them in the past. Especially with customer service. I know I'm probably the outlier here who actual gets good service from them. I'd prefer victron but I also don't want my electronics to cost thousands of thousands of dollars more which will take me even longer to save and get out on trips.
I agree the solar is to small at the moment, espically for extended trips. But it will be increased as well. I mainly need a good arch to mount some panels on. I won't use much on day trips and even if I do there will be plenty of time between trips to top up. If not I've got shore power.
And if all else fails I may get a small generator and keep some fuel on the boat just for that. That'll help keep the batteries topped up on trips. Not ideal but it works.
Just a word about sizing solar panels, many people get overly optimistic about their output. On average, good high quality solar panels mounted in a location with no shading can be expected to produce 3 times their nominal output each day. Obviously some days will be better and some days worse, however that has been my experience with solar and is consistent with Nigel Calder's estimate.
Have you done an energy budget yet? This is the starting point for all good electrical designs.
I've been tracking my daily yields with the 200 watt solar panels and ill average around 20AH a day while in the marina. enough to top up the batteries between day trips. But not enough for longer trips.
I've done a rough budget and I'm looking at about 200AH usage a day while on passage. Obviously less than that while anchored and not using instruments and auto pilot. But that is with everything that I *WANT* to have on the boat. Probably won't be there for a little bit.
I've done a rough budget and I'm looking at about 200AH usage a day while on passage. Obviously less than that while anchored and not using instruments and auto pilot. But that is with everything that I *WANT* to have on the boat. Probably won't be there for a little bit.