I have an Atomic 4 onboard my C-27, with a starter battery for the engine and a dual purpose for running the toys. The new dual purpose (under the port settee)works great. I found that the cable running from the engine to the negative terminal is exposed in several places, and needs to be replaced badly. It is even bare in one area. Two questions: A) Where does one find a 10 foot battery cable? West Marine and auto stores do not carry them, and my wire crimper is not that big. Home Depot does not carry 6 guage wire either. A friend recommended GrayBar, and they may be my only choice. B) What do you suppose could cause the coating on the negative cable to deteriorate so badly? In one area it is gone completely. I suppose heat from a short, but has anyone else seen this in cause-and-affect form? I am surprised the former owner didn't blow up. Looks like this is the orginal cable from the factory. p.s. - the boat has stayed on the same freshwater lake for its entire life, so saltwater doesn't enter the picture.
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West Marine
They have bulk cable u can buy 10ft or 40ft and then buy the connectors and solder them on which is the best thing to do anyway! Buy the way for a battery cable I'd use 0 or 00 #6 is just not big enough to carry the amps that's what happened to the insulation it melted!!
Mike WD9EOU C-38 #169
They have bulk cable u can buy 10ft or 40ft and then buy the connectors and solder them on which is the best thing to do anyway! Buy the way for a battery cable I'd use 0 or 00 #6 is just not big enough to carry the amps that's what happened to the insulation it melted!!
Mike WD9EOU C-38 #169Cable Choices
Check with an electrical contractor in your area - they can make up a custom cable for you using size 1/0 welding cable. That would give you a cable rated for 300 amps, that would be extremely flexible (rated for 90 degrees celcius)
Check with an electrical contractor in your area - they can make up a custom cable for you using size 1/0 welding cable. That would give you a cable rated for 300 amps, that would be extremely flexible (rated for 90 degrees celcius)
Uh oh, dangerous advice
Previous posters is correct, you need 0 or 00 cable, not 6. That is way too light for this use, probably your insulation melted. BUT the rest is dangerous. 1) Do NOT use welding cable. While the finer wires of this cable make it more flexible to install, how often are you going to install it? Do it RIGHT, once. The problem is those fine strands corrode far too quickly in a marine environment and so welding cable is not ABYC certified. 2) Soldering on a battery connector is NOT sufficient. You absolutely MUST have a physical connection. (You can add solder after the fact if you want.) The reason is simple: if the cable overheats, it can melt the solder and the cable may pull out of the connector.
Previous posters is correct, you need 0 or 00 cable, not 6. That is way too light for this use, probably your insulation melted. BUT the rest is dangerous. 1) Do NOT use welding cable. While the finer wires of this cable make it more flexible to install, how often are you going to install it? Do it RIGHT, once. The problem is those fine strands corrode far too quickly in a marine environment and so welding cable is not ABYC certified. 2) Soldering on a battery connector is NOT sufficient. You absolutely MUST have a physical connection. (You can add solder after the fact if you want.) The reason is simple: if the cable overheats, it can melt the solder and the cable may pull out of the connector.
RESULTS!
Okay - Turns out West Marine had the cable after all, but in raw format. So, I bought twelve feet, two terminals, and borrowed their in-store crimper. Worked great. Then, I finished the terminals with liquid electrical on all areas except those that made contact with the ground/post. Whew! Now I can throw switches with a sigh of relief! Thanks Again, Rob
Okay - Turns out West Marine had the cable after all, but in raw format. So, I bought twelve feet, two terminals, and borrowed their in-store crimper. Worked great. Then, I finished the terminals with liquid electrical on all areas except those that made contact with the ground/post. Whew! Now I can throw switches with a sigh of relief! Thanks Again, Rob
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