Autopilot

[SycloneDriver]

When I upgraded my ST4000 to a ST6000+ I couldn't find a location for the compass that was 3ft away from metal and other electronics. I didn't like the original location under the starboard settee either. The location that I settled on is at the far port side of the transom, definitely not the suggested location. It works fine but would probably work better if located at the center of the boat.

 

[Bob S]

It was installed by Beneteau. It is on a bulkhead near the center of the boat. The two aft lazerettes actually rin the full width of the boat. Been there for 15 years. Jviss is right. Something changed and the only thing I could think of was the new ELCI, galvanic isolator and dinghy davits. The davits are SST so I’m not sure how they would effect the compass.

 

[JamesG161]

ELCI, galvanic isolator and dinghy davits. The davits are SST so I’m not sure how they would effect the compass.

None of those should significantly affect the flux compass.
1) The ELCI does have "coil"
2) Galvanic Isolator is possible, if you have the Isolation Transformer type like @capta [normally just simple diodes]
3) Dinghy davits for a Stern type Davit, if one Davit is much closer to the Flux Compass[FC], it should only slightly offset the compass.

Mine is offset from my Richie Steering Compass [SC] by 5 feet to the Port side and about 5 feet down. It is not on the Center of gravity of the boat.

Here is a way to possibly detect the problem.
Get a simple magnetic hand held compass [HH]
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Magellan...mpass-Nautical-Decoration-Brand-New/118573476
or
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lot-of-2...my-Camping-Hiking-Survival-Handheld/540661277

Put it by your FC. Does it point like the SC?
1) Move the HH toward your closest Davit
2) the Galvanic Isolator
3) the ELCI

Lets say it is affected by a Davit...
You can OFFSET your FC to match your SC by the FC calibration procedure. The FC will for all practical purposes, match your SC.
We don't steer by 280.3456 Degrees but ≈280°
The Davit will be in a FIXED position.

BTW my FC was -10° offset. I calibrated my FC so the FC matches my SC good enough.
Lets say I set my Autopilot to 240° [Magnetic and not True] but the real SC is 242°, you would still not be off course significantly in 50 miles.
Plus you GPS can be used to correct slight AutoPilot errors too.

All magnetic compasses are affected by MASS, not just metal. Metals are HIGH mass in a small package.
The Admiral stowed 3 cases of Aluminum canned beer next to our FC.
The Beer caused the offset.

We moved the beer to the opposite boat side and the calibrated FC, offset went away.

Calibration and offset from my SC was a simple procedure.
Jim...

 

[jssailem]

I guess if your going offshore and hoping/intending to hit an island 1000 miles away, a little bit off is an issue. But for most coastal navigation off a degree or two is no big deal. You adjust the auto pilot as you proceed along the course. Making little corrections along the route.

In the Sound there are a variety of events at play that make the auto pilot routing a bit like a heat seeking missile with little in route deviations rather that a laser line. There is a tolerance of error.

My auto pilot is pretty good. I step in so I can avoid being run down by a ferry or a cargo ship.

 

[Bob S]

I use my autopilot to hold a course and to tack only. I don’t follow a waypoint. After finding the course computer I realized it’s not connected to my chart plotter anyways. New to me boat. The PO had the yard install a Garmin chartplotter in 2014 . I may try to connnect it in the future. The ST 6000+ is 15 years old and searching this issue comes up with lots of information so I’m not sure how many more years I’ll get out of it.

 

[Bob S]

Thanks everyone!

 

[dlochner]

The ST 6000+ is 15 years old and searching this issue comes up with lots of information so I’m not sure how many more years I’ll get out of it.

It could be that this unit is simply near the end of its useful life.

 

[Gunni]

It could be that this unit is simply near the end of its useful life.

Definitely. This is expired tech with known issues, there are much improved AP computers and compasses available. I am in the process of upgrading my 6001 AP and will be changing to a Navico system to conform with my MFD system. Bob should look at the Garmin AP if he intends to stay with a Garmin MFD.

 

[SycloneDriver]

I can't believe that I forgot this. On the Raymarine site I found a document that showed a capacitor that was likely installed backwards. I verified that my unit was assembled wrong. The component is very small so I tried to find a shop that did electronic repair but I couldn't find one, so I fixed it myself. My solder job isn't pretty but it worked.

 

[jssailem]

Wow. @SycloneDriver that is a rare occurrence. How did you identify that this is the issue? What symptoms?
If built backwards, why did not Raymarine offer to fix it?
Not a bad solder job for such a small circuit board.

 

[jviss]

I can't believe that I forgot this. On the Raymarine site I found a document that showed a capacitor that was likely installed backwards. I verified that my unit was assembled wrong. The component is very small so I tried to find a shop that did electronic repair but I couldn't find one, so I fixed it myself. My solder job isn't pretty but it worked.

Wow! Good catch. What was the symptom you would experience with the cap in backwards?

 

[SycloneDriver]

I found it on the manufactures site when I was troubleshooting.
IIRC the compass drifted all the time.
I think the document was a TSB for their repair techs.

 

[JamesG161]

How did you identify that this is the issue?

Very simple for @SycloneDriver ....
Boomer Sooner ... Boomer Sooner!!!
Jim...

PS: Oklahoma born, myself.

 

[SycloneDriver]

Boomer Sooner.
My wife is a huge OU fan. Many of my friends graduated from OU. I lived in Norman on several occasions but never went to school there.
Thanks Jim.

 

[Bob S]

Update in case anyone might have the same symptoms. I traced the problem to the rudder reference sensor. I did a test according to Raymarine's technical forum:
Red to Green: 5K Ohms (+/- 10%) Steady
Red to Blue: Variable no less than 1.5K no more than 3.5K as the wheel is spun hardover to hardover.
Blue to Green: Variable no less than 1.5K no more than 3.5K as the wheel is spun hardover to hardover.

The Red to Blue and Blue to Green my not go all the way to 1.5K or up to 3.5K, but whatever either is at midships, the deflection should be about equal to either direction(i.e. midships 2.5K if it goes up to 3.1K, it should go down to around 1.8)

I got 5.35 Ohms steady between R & G but got 2.5 steady between the R&B and B&G
I'm not getting any variance when turning the wheel in either direction.
I ordered a new sensor which I expect to receive in tomorrow's UPS. Has anyone ever experiences a rudder sensor failure before. I'm curious if it's a rare occurrence. For all you experts out there, do you think I'm going to have to re calibrate the whole system or just the dockside calibration?