Is there a popular or safe way to attach the tack of an asymmetrical spinnaker to the bow of a Capri 22 without a bowsprit? How are Capri owners flying their gennakers without compromising the forestay or bow rail/pulpit? Thx, Keith
I plan to place a block next to the forestay on the bow fixture. I will run a tack line through the block behind the bow pulpit and attach the tack to it above the pulpit. At worst, the pulpit will see a lateral load which I will evaluate once in place. If I judge the lateral load excessive, I will thread the tack line under the pulpit. I plan to run only one sheet on the side I have the spin. If I need to jibe I will do it manually. Would only use the spin if I can reach for a few hours.
I would if the furling jib were on the furler. Had a halyard failure ( a friend ???) tied the halyard to the jib with a single square knot that let loose resulting in the halyard now being at the top of the mast. I would need to take the boat out and drop the mast to reinstall the halyard. Too much work for my frail old body. I have been sailing on main alone with good winds making 3-4 knts. Summer of light winds in the Hudson begs for the asym spin so plan to rig it temp until I find some young strong lads to to do the heavy lifting to drop the mast and re-install the jib on the furler.
I race with an Asymmetric Spinnaker, and have installed a Selden retractable bow sprit. Prior to that, I simply shackled a block to to stem head fitting in front of the forestay attachement, and ran a tack line aft from there. The parrel beads (or ATN's "TACKER") or other such devices help to keep the tack of the spinnaker from spilling off to leeward - which can be a problem when trying to use the spinnaker when the apparent wind angle move forward. Any time the apparent wind angle is aft of the beam, I have found that they aren't needed, but YMMV.
I do not race the asymmetric and I aim to yank the sail in long before it could compromise the pulpit. The tack is attached to a swivel block at the bow/forestay. It is the simplest setup and is a good place to start. The block and tack line also serve as a downhaul for the jib, useful to bring down the headsail from the cockpit when single handed.
I tested running the tack forward of the pulpit but did not see how it could work upwind without a sprit. The tack line needs to be tightened upwind yet the bow light is in the way and too much stress would be placed on the pulpit.
I set up my asym the same way as sroberts. There is less pressure on the pulpit than when I lean on it for support clearing some snag up front. While a sprit would put the spinnaker further forward, I only fly the asym in light winds so the slight difference in balance is negligible.
I just bought an ATN Tacker and tried it with my symmetrical. It works!!! I have a furling 135 genoa though.
I tried it both cruising and racing: Not very practical for racing and I will go back to flying my symmetrical on a pole for racing but great for cruising and we were able to handle it with just 2 people on the boat.
I fly the asym single handed. It's in a sock. Just attach the tack line and the halyard before leaving the dock. Just hoist and pull in the tack line, then raise the sock. I sometimes hoist at the dock and lash to the mast for quicker raising. All doable solo without an autopilot. Just let the boat head up and adjust once it's out. I don't jibe the asym, just sock it and move the sheet around the headstay.
The major value of a sprit is to get the sail away from the furler. Yes, it gets it out front and into clear air, but if you think you have a halyard problem now, wrap the top of the kite around the furler and watch the stress. Just sayin.