any advice on THIS crack???

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Feb 19, 2008
447
Catalina 320 Tawas Bay Yacht Club
Hey all - I am one of the guys that has said that cracks on the 170 are a fairly minor deal and are pretty easy to fix, but until last year I never actually had a bad one.

Last year I ripped much of the "rudder hump" off the back of the boat so that I could replace the rotted wood that the rudder mount plate screws to. I added a round deck access port so that I could through bolt the rudder instead of using screws again . . . big ordeal, one I am hoping to avoid this year.

This year I fixed a crack under the mast step, the crack was easy enough to fix, but the screws didn't tighten - rot suspected again.

I drilled out the four screw holes to 3/4 inch, my plan is to epoxy an oak dowel into each of the four holes to have something more solid to screw to.

Trouble is that when I drilled out the holes the foam under the wood is wet - I am hoping that the water came from the crack, or from leaking around the screws. In any event my first concern is drying the thing out! As near as I can tell the foam goes full thickness from the mast step to the hull, the foam there is part of a foam box that completely encloses the centerboard trunk. I think the four holes that I drilled are the only way the water is leaving that area. I duct taped a piece of aquarium hose on the end of my shop vac and tried to suck water out, but it seems the water is in the foam - so not much luck.

How long should I let the thing stay open before I try to epoxy the dowel in place? How can I tell where the water was coming from? What other advice do you have?

I am thinking that the main force exerted by the mast is a downward force - so I might cut my dowels good and long and try to bash them into the foam as far as I can to give maximum support.

Any other advice??
Anyone know a real expert that I can call?

john
 
Mar 2, 2011
489
Compac 14 Charleston, SC
Hey all - I am one of the guys that has said that cracks on the 170 are a fairly minor deal and are pretty easy to fix, but until last year I never actually had a bad one.

Last year I ripped much of the "rudder hump" off the back of the boat so that I could replace the rotted wood that the rudder mount plate screws to. I added a round deck access port so that I could through bolt the rudder instead of using screws again . . . big ordeal, one I am hoping to avoid this year.

This year I fixed a crack under the mast step, the crack was easy enough to fix, but the screws didn't tighten - rot suspected again.

I drilled out the four screw holes to 3/4 inch, my plan is to epoxy an oak dowel into each of the four holes to have something more solid to screw to.

Trouble is that when I drilled out the holes the foam under the wood is wet - I am hoping that the water came from the crack, or from leaking around the screws. In any event my first concern is drying the thing out! As near as I can tell the foam goes full thickness from the mast step to the hull, the foam there is part of a foam box that completely encloses the centerboard trunk. I think the four holes that I drilled are the only way the water is leaving that area. I duct taped a piece of aquarium hose on the end of my shop vac and tried to suck water out, but it seems the water is in the foam - so not much luck.

How long should I let the thing stay open before I try to epoxy the dowel in place? How can I tell where the water was coming from? What other advice do you have?

I am thinking that the main force exerted by the mast is a downward force - so I might cut my dowels good and long and try to bash them into the foam as far as I can to give maximum support.

Any other advice??
Anyone know a real expert that I can call?

john
Try Hunter Marine the boat builder. I'm sure they can offer some advice. When my 170 had some similar but less severe repair issues, I opened the drain and let it air out for a few weeks with the trailer jacked way up. Tilt it up as far as possible and prop it up on blocks securely so that all water inside and run aft. I was amazed how much water I drained out. Sounds like you repair plan is well thought out already.
 

txjim

.
Sep 4, 2007
154
Hunter 170 Grapevine Lake, TX
A picture would help but I'd consider replacing a large section of the foam with plywood bonded and sealed with epoxy. Cut out the existing foam, fabricate the wood and epoxy it to the hull. Use 8# two-part foam to bed in the wood. Removing larger sections of the foam would also help aid the drying process. (although with 100+ temperatures here in Texas, drying is not a problem!)

I did something similiar to solve a motor mount issue.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,484
-na -NA Anywhere USA
TXJIm hit it on the nailhead. You have to remove the wood. I inserted a new oak or mahoganey piece. Fiberglass mat was used but impregnated with Plexisus. Never use acetone on this boat.

Make sure the cut is angled at the edges 45%. When you start, shoot me a picture.
davecondon@mindspring.com

Crazy Dave
 
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