Antifreeze in the water tank

John_F

.
Feb 24, 2009
32
Beneteau 31 Buffalo
Does anyone have an easy way to flush the water tank of antifreeze?

We have a 34 gallon watertank with an electric pump for pressurized water. I've run the faucets in the head and the galley sink and there is still the smell and fizziness of antifreeze. Is it just a matter of running the tank almost dry and refilling it?

Maybe I'm just impatient, but any suggestions on flushing the tank is welcome.
 

Pat

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Jun 7, 2004
1,250
Oday 272LE Ninnescah Yacht Club, Wichita, Ks.
I always run several 1/2 tanks thru all the fixtures to be sure I'm getting all the antifreeze out....the water should run clear...for sure....we do use it for dishes and such....Pat
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,677
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
NEVER put af in the tank. Install valves and ONLY put af in the pipes.
 
Apr 8, 2010
2,091
Ericson Yachts Olson 34 28400 Portland OR
Water tank thoughts

Does anyone have an easy way to flush the water tank of antifreeze?

We have a 34 gallon watertank with an electric pump for pressurized water. I've run the faucets in the head and the galley sink and there is still the smell and fizziness of antifreeze. Is it just a matter of running the tank almost dry and refilling it?

Maybe I'm just impatient, but any suggestions on flushing the tank is welcome.
I clean out out big (38 gal.) water tank several times a season to keep it fresh, and we leave it bone dry in mid winter when we winterize the boat...
The secret, if you could call it that, is that I have a small (read: inexpensive) centrif. pump that I can place inside the tank with its wiring and a long enough hose to reach the galley sink. I plug the wires into a 12 volt outlet and reach in and hold that little pump flat as possible to the bottom of the tank. In about a minute or so the water inside is down to about a quarter inch. A turkey baster and some clean rage finishes the job. The rags are moistened with bleach and water. A good wipe - down does the job.
Access is by a pair of screw-out access plated on top, on each side of the interior baffle.

With a good clean out port or two and some occasional effort, you will always have clean and safe drinking water.
Yes, I did add those ports!
And once it's clean, do not put risky chemicals like AF in there. Yikes.
:(

Regards,
Loren
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,701
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Does anyone have an easy way to flush the water tank of antifreeze?

We have a 34 gallon watertank with an electric pump for pressurized water. I've run the faucets in the head and the galley sink and there is still the smell and fizziness of antifreeze. Is it just a matter of running the tank almost dry and refilling it?

Maybe I'm just impatient, but any suggestions on flushing the tank is welcome.
Keep flushing...

Next year don't put pink in the tanks, just the lines....
 
Dec 19, 2006
5,818
Hunter 36 Punta Gorda
Many Flushing

You will need to put fresh water in the tank many times to get it all out,
just add a few gallons and flush and flush and flush.
I had the same problem many years ago and it took time for the smell to go
away and my wife complained a lot.
When living in NY I stopped using anteefreez in tank and switched to air
with a small wet/dry vac hooked up in blowing out the pipes.
nick
 
Jan 6, 2010
1,520
I feel for you guys who have to put up with winterizing your boats.
I read much on SBO about the pro's-n-cons.

I for one, would never add antifreeze to my water tank. Would it not be easier to just drain the system at season's end with all the faucets left open. Working on the boat during winter, wouldn't carrying a couple gallon jugs filled with water work? You can't use this water/AF mix working on your boat anyhow so, I don't see what the gain is.

Also, maybe install a few tees w/valves at low points in the piping and/or hoses for a quick way to drain the full system. It sounds like it's alot of work & water to flush the antifreeze.

Attached is a MSDS (material safety data sheet) on some dangers using antifreeze. This is another reason I would not put it in my tank. Some will disagree with me & that's fine.
If antifreeze works for you & your comfortable with it, that's fine.


CR
 

Attachments

Mar 26, 2011
3,677
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
A warning. While a shop vac will work for some boats, in many the pressure is far too low and it will leave enough water to break things. It all depends on geometry. When "blowing out" the lines is advised, the experienced hand is referencing to compressed air. Even then the application point need thoughtful selection. I've seen a lot of damage in boats that were blown dry.

Great warm climate procedure, through.
 

weinie

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Sep 6, 2010
1,297
Jeanneau 349 port washington, ny
I feel for you guys who have to put up with winterizing your boats.
I read much on SBO about the pro's-n-cons.

I for one, would never add antifreeze to my water tank. Would it not be easier to just drain the system at season's end with all the faucets left open. Working on the boat during winter, wouldn't carrying a couple gallon jugs filled with water work? You can't use this water/AF mix working on your boat anyhow so, I don't see what the gain is.

Also, maybe install a few tees w/valves at low points in the piping and/or hoses for a quick way to drain the full system. It sounds like it's alot of work & water to flush the antifreeze.

Attached is a MSDS (material safety data sheet) on some dangers using antifreeze. This is another reason I would not put it in my tank. Some will disagree with me & that's fine.
If antifreeze works for you & your comfortable with it, that's fine.


CR
thats ethylene glycol for engines.

the pink stuff is propylene glycol

For a small tank under 20 gallons like mine, its easier to flush it out than to try to disconnect hoses and drain the tank bone dry.
 

JamesG161

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Feb 14, 2014
7,745
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
The non toxic polypropylene glycol is pink for a reason (no color.. not residue). The standard laboratory rinse rules was 3 well mixed rinses. How to you mix/rinse? Use a 3/4th full water tank in 2 foot seas.
Jim...
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,677
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
We're all sloppy on nomenclature, hoping folks will follow the context.

The stuff that goes in engines is "engine coolant." Generally EG, but can be PG or blends including glycerin.

The stuff that goes in pipes is either "antifreeze" or "winterizing agent;" the latter is more clear and is used in the industry. There are also "freeze conditioning agents," "anti-icing agents," and de-icing agents." All different. PG for potable, EG for engines and heads is better because of materials compatibility issues (PG is rough on neoprene). Both are biodgradeable and equivalent to fish.

And don't go by color. There are several very good blue PG mixes (Starbrite and West Marine -100 PG), and there are several pink EG engine coolants. Sudbury is red (PG) and Southwind (PG) is orange.

None of these has any chronic toxicity (even EG) and so if every thing is well rinsed there is not danger. However, if someone were so foolish as to use EG on a potable system, it is all formulated with Bitrex, and they will spitting for days with even a trace. The stuff is foul even when very dilute and even more difficult to rinse out, which is of course, the point. I had plant guy splash a drop of Bitrex on his lip and he was spitting for hours, even after many, many, many rinses.
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,241
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
I'd evaluate the need to use anti-freeze. If your lines drain or are flexible, why bother with it? A little frozen water in your tank isn't going to do any damage when the water has room to expand. Think about plastic ice trays, the kind we used to use in the old days .... they never broke. My plastic holding tank and all the flexible hoses have been solid blocks of ice so many times and never any sign of trouble. I use plastic milk jugs or chlorine jugs filled with water to use as weights for my pool cover. They freeze solid, expand, and never even leak in the spring.

If you drain the lines and drain the tank and there is a tiny bit of water left over, I can't imagine why you would have any problem. If you do take the precaution of blowing air in the lines, all the better.

I think the use of anti-freeze in the cooling lines of an engine is good to prevent internal corrosion over the winter. I don't know why anybody would use it in a water system.
 
Jan 6, 2010
1,520
A few let me know I was referring to engine antifreeze & not the pink stuff. For this, I stand corrected, a drawback of being a warm water sailor.

I did like what Scott said, if even needing the pink stuff was worth it. Why would you want to have a tank with AF & water added sit over the winter months? I just don't see the point in that.

CR
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,677
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
^^ You have a simple boat and have been very lucky. Reconsider if you buy a more complex boat.

I have seen plastic tanks rupture with only2 inches of water. I've seen lots of plastic water bottles burst. I've seen pipe fittings at low spot burst even when the water was blown out. I've seen valves explode due to the water trapped in the voids (the lines were drained and the valves open).
 

weinie

.
Sep 6, 2010
1,297
Jeanneau 349 port washington, ny
A few let me know I was referring to engine antifreeze & not the pink stuff. For this, I stand corrected, a drawback of being a warm water sailor.

I did like what Scott said, if even needing the pink stuff was worth it. Why would you want to have a tank with AF & water added sit over the winter months? I just don't see the point in that.

CR
That's okay... I heard the green stuff makes a mean appletini.:D
 
Jan 6, 2010
1,520
I agree that any residual water in the system voids can create a problem. I also agree that blowing out a system is no 100% guarantee all the water is gone.

But, to assume I have a simpler boat? I have 40 years experience in petro-chem, pharmaceutical, civil & nuclear mechanical piping. The same rules apply, only the systems change. I know how to completely drain a system of any type of fluid, slurry etc. So, it's really not a question of simple, but rather the correct method.

CR
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
Does anyone have an easy way to flush the water tank of antifreeze? ....
In the fall I only put enough (a gallon at a time) AF in the water tank to pump it through the systems. Come spring, pump out what AF may still be in the tank. THEN, do not fill the tank. Add water slowly as you run the pump. You'll dilute the AF, then it should turn to all water. Add a few gallons water and pump. Then fill the tank and pump it all as your pump may allow you run-time. After every weekend cruise i do what it takes to run all the water out of the tank before the next cruise, then I fill with all fresh water. After 8 years, I'm still drinking from the tank supply... except when making coffee. Don't mess with the coffee taste.:naughty:
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,241
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
No luck, just common sense ... yes, rigid pipes like copper burst. Even PEX won't burst (well, maybe the fittings will be a problem if filled with water and frozen.

I've damaged hard plastic components, like the skimmer box and plastic valves on pool components, with frozen water, but I've never, ever, seen flexible plastic burst. I've frozen many aluminum cans in the freezer, but never seen a flimsy plastic water bottle with plastic cap fail after being frozen solid.

I simply don't believe anybody has ever damaged a flexible plastic tank or even a metal tank with just a few inches of water in it when the water has room to expand. Sure, rigid fittings are a different story, but damage to flexible fittings is even unlikely. Just make sure the fittings aren't filled with water ...

As a disclaimer ... I'm the type of person whom will always question what is usually the "accepted protocol". That is what makes me a pretty unconventional engineer and alienates many of my peers. But that is why my response to typical questions like ... 'what's the best way to deal with the awful tasting anti-freeze in my water tank' goes something like this 'Why are you putting anti-freeze in your drinking water when you probably don't have to?'

I'll never say that I am correct all of the time!

Of course draining the lines is necessary, but aside from that, what is the worry? Every fall, thousands of miles of flexible irrigation lines are simply drained and blown out all across the northland, with never a concern about the drips of water that will eventually collect in the low spots. We come back in the spring and the vast majority are damage-free without the use of anti-freeze.
 
Oct 9, 2008
1,742
Bristol 29.9 Dana Point
Does anyone have an easy way to flush the water tank of antifreeze?

We have a 34 gallon watertank with an electric pump for pressurized water. I've run the faucets in the head and the galley sink and there is still the smell and fizziness of antifreeze. Is it just a matter of running the tank almost dry and refilling it?

Maybe I'm just impatient, but any suggestions on flushing the tank is welcome.
Open the tank access hatch (if there isn't one then ignore this)
Grab your clean portable hand pump (pic), and pump it into the bilge or out the portlight. Refill. 1 to 2 minutes pumping vs 10 minutes wearing out the pressure pump.
 

Attachments

Feb 6, 1998
11,701
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
A warning. While a shop vac will work for some boats, in many the pressure is far too low and it will leave enough water to break things. It all depends on geometry. When "blowing out" the lines is advised, the experienced hand is referencing to compressed air. Even then the application point need thoughtful selection. I've seen a lot of damage in boats that were blown dry.

Great warm climate procedure, through.
On my second freeze up fix this year for "blown out" systems.....

Spring count:

Water Heaters = 2

Engine Heat Exchangers = 2

Valves & fittings = 8

Head Pump = 1

Bilge Pump = 1

Sea Strainer = 1

Air Conditioner Circulation Pump =1

Thermostat Housing = 1

Proper winterizing is key!!!

One owner had bragged he could winterize his whole boat on two gallons of pink.. The money he saved on "pink" cost him 40X that this spring.....:doh: Oh and 6 hours of labor just to extricate the water heater on that boat........:cussing:

Oh and please, please, please check the freeze point of your engine coolant (not the raw water side, the ethylene glycol side) before winter. One owner apparently had a leaking HX that he did not know about. It had diluted the engine AF to the point where the engine froze solid. Fortunately just a t-stat housing and the heat exchanger. The freeze plugs stayed intact thankfully because that would have meant engine removal. Testing the AF freeze point takes two minutes and is a MANDATORY part of proper winterizing!! Measuring the overflow bottle does NOT count, you must measure what is in the engine!!!