And so it begins

Aug 20, 2010
1,399
Oday 27 Oak Orchard
OK. So here they are. The pics of the tucked core and open areas sealed with epoxy as well as the core edges. Now I'm depending on a critique of my imprinting the cabin liner. Feel free to be honest. I'm in the good enough category. The one photo shows the mold being held against the patch with an aluminum backer plate. This was the Bondo application. Next I have applied a thinned mix of white Marine Tex with a toothpick to further enhance the pattern. Again feedback is welcome on this - Joe
 

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Aug 20, 2010
1,399
Oday 27 Oak Orchard
Well so much for routing steps. Gelcoat is anything but gel, in fact it compares to some industrial ceramics. Well the belt sander with 36 grit belts was pretty much worthless for a project of this magnitude. Not bad if you're willing to spend hours on a few feet of taper. What does work fast and furious are Walter Double X steel grinding wheels. My preference are the A-20-X. The caveat is you need to move right along and not linger or they will chew a crater in the existing glass. So needless to say a respirator and tyvek suit are highly essential along with goggles as the dust and gelcoat chips will be a flying. With a few more hours work the entire port side will be beveled and awaiting the finishing of the core and weather permitting the cloth layup. Pics to follow as soon as the bevel and some modicum of cleanup performed. Total time to bevel 40 feet with grinder and a follow up for smoothness with the belt sander is about 2 hours.
 
Aug 20, 2010
1,399
Oday 27 Oak Orchard
Well with the weather is about to take a turn for the pleasant and with most of the bevel complete the core has been cut and dry fit. Phew it's beginning to resemble a deck again. The purpose of dry fitting is it gives one final chance to eye how fair the deck is. Also any high points in the bevel can be attended prior to the glue up. By using a clear plastic sheeting taped to the deck it's a simple matter to trace the outline of core areas and then cut right through it and the balsa to achieve a reasonably accurate fit. Some trimming may be necessary due to filleting that occured from the tuck and glue portion of the project. Any slight gaps can be filled with thickened epoxy and thus form a secondary capsule where if one part of the core is damaged it will remain isolated from the rest. Now for others who at this point may be considering a similar project let me clarify something. I have no special skills in boatbuilding or fiberglass work. A great deal of time was spent communicating with persons who are experts in their fields. All the products I am using are backed by a technical staff who's sole purpose is to insure the sucessful completion of your project while using their products. Taking your time and thinking things through are the key. Also there are times when any diligent craftsman should wonder have I taken on more than I can handle? That is a clue you are proceeding with care. Remember if you're stuck, a call or E-mail to the supplier of the product being used is a good place to start. Tomorrow a bit more grinding, cleaning, glue up and freezer bag filling with sand to weight it down for a good bond. Enjoy the pics.
 

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Aug 20, 2010
1,399
Oday 27 Oak Orchard
Tick tock Clarice. Well the waiting has begun. The core is bonded and covered with polyethylene and weighted with 180 pounds of sand contained in freezer bags. The poly isn't supossed to stick to epoxy and we'll see how that works. The chainplates were sandblasted and countersunk at the 4 holes and bonded with epoxy and 404 adhesive filler. A 10-32 screw is awaiting a better grounding of the lightning protection wire instead of threading it through the holes. Windows were fabricated for imbedding in the deck and through screwed with 10-32 stainless screws. Let's see these suckers ever wiggle again. Now the waiting for the cure and a look at a solid core, tomorrow. Lower shroud chainplates located 17.5" on center from upper shroud chainplate and 10" pin center to center of toe rail. Upper shroud chainplate located from rear of tabbed bulkheads and 11" pin center to center of toe rail.
 

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Aug 20, 2010
1,399
Oday 27 Oak Orchard
Now would be a good time to add to the data if some of you folks wouldn't mind. Question one: Was there a trim piece at the bottom of the main bulkhead extending from the port settee to the compression post of did the plwood just end? Two: What were the widths of the full length shear stripe and boot stripe and not the stop short variety? Three: Does anyone have a photo or detailed description of the galley layout on a 1976 or newer version of the ODay 27? Here's a link to help visualize what in blazes I'm asking. www.gjenvick.com/BangorPunta/ODay/1977-Catalog-ODay27.html#pageContent
 
Aug 20, 2010
1,399
Oday 27 Oak Orchard
Yes we have bondage. YOT has something it hasn't had in years, SOLID CORE. Yeah, yeah OMG yeah. Once again West Epoxy comes through with flying colors. The pics today show the core fully bonded to the inner deck skin. The white tape around the chainplates is teflon tape covering 1/16 inch per side of electrical tape. The teflon tape should allow easy release from the window and cloth laminate epoxy leaving the same 1/16 gap all the way around. Why on earth would he do that you may ask. This gap will provide room for the sealer around the chainplates. Gaps were left all the way to the interior whereby any failure of the sealant will be apparent from inside immediately and signal attention is in order. At the same time the epoxy window will protect the core from water migration. The philosophy is a known leak is an attended leak. By the by polyethylene does not stick to epoxy. That will be stored for the starboard side along with the sand bags and sand. The other photo is a template made from polyethylene and reinforced with, yes you got it, duct tape which gives it a bit more stiffness. The white strings are the width of the knytex cloth I will be using and this method allows for the opportunity to view the layout to maximize the orientation of the fabric and at the same time economize before the shears come out. So enjoy the pics and have a nice day.
 

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Oct 10, 2009
982
Catalina 27 Lake Monroe
This is amazing stuff and thank you for chronicling the work. As for those chainplates, I am wondering why you aren't choosing to fill those spots completely with epoxy then re-drill? I ask because I'll probably have to re-core the area around my chainplates at some point. No where near as comprehensive as you are doing, but years of neglect by the PO leaves me convinced the core needs repairing around the chainplates. I've read that boring out the old core, filling completely with epoxy and re-drilling is the way to go, but maybe that's not best for a larger core replacement such as you're doing.

Keep those pictures coming- I'm hooked.
 
Aug 20, 2010
1,399
Oday 27 Oak Orchard
Thank you for the kind words Indysailor. I'm enjoying bringing this learning experience to the sailing community as much as doing the actual work. As to your question about redrilling after the windows are made. Honestly it didn't even occur to me to use your approach. My approach was to have a clamping mechanism as the old factory approach was to use the liner to 'pin' it to the inner deck skin. Needless to say that may not have been the bestest method. I have attached a quick sketch of what I concocted and I think it will provide the leak I'm going to be looking for with a sealer failure and yet with some minor grinding of the epoxy and some heat the chainplate can be removed and reinstalled using the imbedded clamp plates. The pictures show the epoxied chainplates with the countersink filled and the epoxy windows to isolate the core. Tonight I'll be continuing on the cutting room floor and I gotta say good scissors are a must with Knytex. Oh my aching knees though.
 

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Oct 10, 2009
982
Catalina 27 Lake Monroe
Your method sounds reasonable to me, providing room for movement and sealant. One concern I have with filling then drilling is that the holes will be too large or will not be in the exact place they need to be. If I do what you did, keeping the chainplates in place (attached to the bulkheads), with the 1/16 teflon tape wrap, it might come out better.
Repaired my rudder last year and it turned out to be more an exercise in sculpting than anything. I have found epoxy to be a forgiving product to work with.
 
Aug 20, 2010
1,399
Oday 27 Oak Orchard
Tonight I'm happy to report the concrete got much softer or perhaps it was my kneecaps liquifying. Starboard side will have knee pads added to the list of good things to have. Be that as it may the cloth has been cut. With a dry fit to ascertain the amount of trimming I can report the polyethylene/duct tape pattern performed flawlessly. All the pieces layed right down on the deck without any adjusting necessary. What I will be laying up is: layer 1) 0-90 18 oz knytex, layer 2) +/- 45 12 oz knytex, layer 3) another 0-90 18 oz knytex and finally layer 4) another +/- 45 12 oz knytex. All have a 3/4 oz chopped mat backing that I will be applying in the upward orientation. No particular reason for this other than it is supposed to minimize print through of the cloth. This may or may not be a factor considering the fairing but since I will be imprinting the nonskid pattern using gelcoat why not play it safe. The rolls were purchased from U.S. Composites as they have a fantastic tech staff and have no problem discussing the pros and cons of any selection. The gelcoat/epoxy adhesion issue was also discussed with them and was the reason for the selection of West which was confirmed through the testing done by West Systems. So there we have it, a little trim in place, clean up and let's laminate.
 

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Aug 20, 2010
1,399
Oday 27 Oak Orchard
I think you're right about the static versus dynamic application in play here Indysailor. I found the epoxy to to be somewhat brittle when used without a cloth. My main drive was repairability and accuracy of placement. Somehow a small trim plate with a thin sealant layer seemed insufficient. The earlier photos show how right that thinking was, with the deck skin lifting off in one piece over 9 feet of core through that area. Again thank you for contributing to this thread.
 
Aug 23, 2005
28
Oday 28 Racine WI
Rebuilding Boats

Some people are sailors. They would rather be out on the water rather than working on their boats and probably let a lot of little jobs whistle in the wind, as long as the job doesn't impact safety or the boat's ability to sail.

Some people are craftsmen, enjoy working on boats and take pride in their boats appearance and condition. They may sail but are just as happy doing the work.

People own boats for the joy it gives them. Both types derive pleasure in their own way. I wish I knew a craftsman who wanted to work on my boat.
 
Aug 20, 2010
1,399
Oday 27 Oak Orchard
I think I may be a bit of both Winters Dream, although when I trade in the coveralls for the deck shoes the craftsman part will be put to the test. The funny thing was I wasn't looking for a project boat. Even though my last name begins and ends with R all similarities to Rockefeller end there. What I had to accept was the best boat with the best price that would allow me to expend the resources on making it a vessel I was proud of and willing to take out in any weather. My 78 ODay 22 saw more than its' share of heavy weather (gotta recommend not flying a cruising spinnaker in 40+ knot winds though) and always got me to where I was going. Anyway tonights progress involves the cloth is trimmed and the quick and easy curvature patterns confirm the calculations on how much to trim each layer. The patterns were cardboard and a small block of wood with a pencil taped to it traced the curvature of the starboard side by holding the cardboard upright while the mate moved the block and pencil across the deck. Then a quick cut along the pencil line with a razorknife and you've got a mirror image of the port side curvature. Anyway off come the toerails as their function as guides is no longer needed and the final prep for the laminating. Take care everybody.
 
Aug 20, 2010
1,399
Oday 27 Oak Orchard
Well tomorrow is the big day. Many yards of Knytex are neatly numbered and rolled awaiting laminating. The core has been vacuumed after a sanding of the epoxy touch ups and the isolation grid. On another note, I would like to say hello Janice and Cody the previous owner and her nephew, who it turns out, has joined the company I work for. I hope you enjoy watching your former boat restored to its' original condition as much as I am enjoying making it happen. Only one photo tonight showing the barren deck stripped of the toe rails which allows easy access for the fairing which will await weather conducive to epoxy work. Brrr it's chilly but the heater is running and the deck is a comfortable 62 degrees.
 

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Aug 20, 2010
1,399
Oday 27 Oak Orchard
Well after all that work and he covers it up. So after an all day affair YOT has a functional deck and brand new core, at least on the port side. The starboard will wait till spring. The photos in this segment show, the first layer wetted out but showing resin starvation. Notice the white lines that are very evident. At this point a word about heavy Knytex cloth. It guzzles resin like crazy. A way I found to lay it up and speed the whole process is to lay the resin on thick with the spreader and let it soak for several minutes. Then go back and begin with the spreader and remove the excess. The first layer of cloth, and as advertised it is transparent when fully wet out. Knytex also loves bubbles. The next photo shows one of these rascals. By rolling with a laminating roller or a Bodi Bubble Buster roller the popping is eliminated indicating a good bond without bubble voids. Finally the first fairing and cloth sealing using 404 filler, and yes I'm a glutton for sanding. So there we have it, 9 hours and the resin finally reached the half empty mark. Enjoy, Joe
 

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Aug 20, 2010
1,399
Oday 27 Oak Orchard
Well after a month of work I'm feeling fairly confidant that everything will proceed without too many issues. Today after yesterday's mad dash to close in the core I thought I would treat myself to some easier stuff. Removing inoperative or broken instruments and tape players. Talk about archaic. So anyway, it appears YOT has been to Switzerland as the companionway bulkhead is made of swiss cheese. Another handy type of repair is the plug method. On non structural repairs the standard bevel is often not required. I think this fits that description nicely. Several layers are laminated with the final layer larger than the others. After routing a step using a 1/4" rabbeting bit to a depth slightly deeper than the large diameter cloth plus a little for finishing or about .093 or 3/32 inch the plug is glued in with epoxy and again an adhesive filler. I'll be back with the final outcome as soon as this portion is complete.:dance:
 

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Aug 20, 2010
1,399
Oday 27 Oak Orchard
Photos today show the rabbet around the edges of former instrument holes and the plugs which were prelaminated. After a quick wet sand to break the amine blush the edges were coated with West Systems epoxy thickened with 404 high density filler. All ready for a quick sanding and fairing. While the Saturday Night Live skit had Julia Child proclaim, "save those livers,":D I proclaim save those cloth trimmings.
 

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Aug 20, 2010
1,399
Oday 27 Oak Orchard
It will be my priveledge SailingCal. Not much to report tonight. The patches were sanded and faired using 407 collodial silica. Sanding of the deck is now well underway. One technique I can share as the nights are getting longer is, a Maglight flashlight shown along the deck will reveal every high, low and every other imperfection that sunlight/daylight will hide. The shadows reveal all. Wet sanding is the way to go as dry sanding causes clouds of dust which is probably not to pretty good for one's health. Thanks again for the feedback, and glad I can offer a look at the inside of these boats and their refurbishment from an amatuer's point of view.
 
Aug 20, 2010
1,399
Oday 27 Oak Orchard
In tonight's episode our stalwart adventurer will, as promised, share a blunder. First, let me correct the previous post. The proper number and spelling is 406 Colloidal Silica. After an hour and a half of little progress on sanding the companionway bulkhead patches a quick check of the West Systems User's Manual revealed this is a structural filler. After telling my family the stuff sands like glass and I'm burning up aluminum oxide paper at a record rate, my darling son, bless his little heart, reminded me silica is the basic component of glass. Well at least I'm getting the best value out of my repaired rotator cuffs. I knew that would be money well spent. So I suppose if the pirates of Lake Ontario ever attack refuge in the cabin with the bulletproof bulkhead should be sufficient protection. Anyway enjoy the chuckle, I am, and use 407 Low Density or 410 Microlight for an easier sanding experience.