And so it begins
- Thread starter 25yearslater
- Start date
Pretty close Todd. I bought a half sheet of the male pattern to make my molds as the nonskid on YOT was too far gone to get a detailed female mold. Other than that you are right on the money. If YOT had a well detailed surface I would definately have made the molds direct and could have saved 500 bucks in the whole process. The hardest part of the process is getting the mold down flat using the squeegee. That's a trial and error proposition. Too light and you get the bumps, too heavy and pattern distortion. I was warned that this would be a tough pattern due to it being so small and so highly detailed. The other Oday patterns such as the diamond pattern offer easier migration of the gelcoat under the mold during the squeegee process.
You just saved me $500
I'll be getting to deck crack repair job likely next spring.
What color were the original decks on YOT? My boat has Taupe (grayish tan) non-skid. At 75 deg yesterday the boat was hot with all the hatches open. I think I will be painting the non-skip the same cream color as the smooth gelcoat. It will be a lower gloss of course. I know most will tell me that there should be a difference so one can identify the nonskid when on deck but the 39 is nearly all non-skid. What do you (or others) think?
I'll be getting to deck crack repair job likely next spring.
What color were the original decks on YOT? My boat has Taupe (grayish tan) non-skid. At 75 deg yesterday the boat was hot with all the hatches open. I think I will be painting the non-skip the same cream color as the smooth gelcoat. It will be a lower gloss of course. I know most will tell me that there should be a difference so one can identify the nonskid when on deck but the 39 is nearly all non-skid. What do you (or others) think?
Hi Todd. YOT had the same color gray tan. It can be seen under the 27 owner modifications, also the 27 owner photos has a sistership named My that shows the colors. I am going to change the colors to match the avatar photo. The 27 also had a continuous color nonskid with the breaks of the same color. I'll deviate from the exact original somewhat and go white just because. My choice of colors is more about nostalgia as they were the colors of my 22. You're lucky to have a deck you can capture the pattern, that is a big time and money saver. Last weekend I paid a visit to Pittsford Lumber and bought some 8/4 and 4/4 teak. With the table saw fired up I made new hatch runners and toerails. Total cost 252.00. The purchased runners and rails would have added up to over 600.00. They are easy to duplicate and another big money saver. Even if I were to add the cost of table saw, router and bits and the dado cutter I still came out less than these items cost when purchased. Since I've made moldings, doors, bulkheads and just about everything else at this point these basic tools have reduced their purchase cost to pennies on the individual items.
Well up to now everthing has been pretty much sterilized. With this thread generating so much interest I thought I would post a picture of what the actual work yields. No other forum or tech bulletin or likewise will show you this. Only here on Odayowners.com will you see the hard reality of a restoration project. So here it is, what you better be ready for.
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Thanks for that one jibes. That gave me a chuckle all week. Well YOT has a brand new deck core all the way around. Finished up the bonding and taper grinding this week along with the cloth cutting. Next weekend the laminating as the whole process takes a full eight hours to complete. So here's the core with the chainplates wrapped with plastic this time as teflon tape works well enough but is a pain to remove. All the epoxy windows are formed around them along with the through bolting and bonding of the chainplates to the inner skin. The isolation epoxy that separates areas of the core are visible to keep any core damage from migrating beyond a single section.
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Hey 25 this is from the island packet web site on how they core their hulls. seems pretty simple and eliminates the whole rot issue. Microballoons seem really light and take up most of the space so this seems a pretty good idea. Any thoughts?
Our coring for our decks and interior liners is pretty unique.Instead of using conventional materials that are prone to rotand delamination, we actually make our own core in a liquidpaste form, made up of microballoons—tiny Ping-Pong balls—and resin. The beauty of the material is that it is chemically verysimilar to, and bonds aggressively with, the composite struc-ture, eliminating a major cause of delamination and allowing usto offer a ten-year warranty against deterioration, whereasmany builders are reluctant even to offer five.
Our coring for our decks and interior liners is pretty unique.Instead of using conventional materials that are prone to rotand delamination, we actually make our own core in a liquidpaste form, made up of microballoons—tiny Ping-Pong balls—and resin. The beauty of the material is that it is chemically verysimilar to, and bonds aggressively with, the composite struc-ture, eliminating a major cause of delamination and allowing usto offer a ten-year warranty against deterioration, whereasmany builders are reluctant even to offer five.
Hi jibes. Been busy with an employer change lately. Got fed up with the previous one's toxic work atmosphere and joined another company three days later. It's been a good week to be me. Anyway the microballoon looks like a really neat idea. My question/concern would be the cost involved with the resin and the microballons are a bit pricey. If money is no object or someone is doing a spot core repair this is definately the way go. So continuing with my YOT refurb the fiberglass cloth is all set and the fairing is underway. I ran out of 410 microlight and will be ordering some more. New sails are being ordered from Neil Pryde and the biggee, gelcoat is being applied to the hull. Those blech green stripes were yucky so I made them full length in gray and blue. Reminds me of my Oday 22 Teazer. The galley is all ripped out and the new wood is being cut for reinstallation. The cabin interior is being regelcoated where the patches were and I must say I did a pretty good job of color matching for nice blending. So enjoy the pics of YOT's new shear and boot stripes.
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Your posts and pics are very inspiring. I am on the fence of whether to invest time & efort into my '76 O'day 27 or to think about another boat. Your work is pushing me towards keeping teh O'day. Fortunately (I think) that the things that I need don't seem to be as extensive as the work you are doing. If you have a moment, can you tell me where the original holding tank is?
Well hello there round the bend. Thank you for your gracious comments. My 27 had the one piece holding tank/head set up. There is a great deal of room under the v-berth area that might serve as a suitable area for a larger holding tank. I will probably install the Thetford porta-potti with the integral tank as most of the time it will be used for daysailing.
So what's 25 been up to lately? Well fairing the starboard deck is priority one at this point. No matter how much West Systems 410 Microlight filler one seems to buy it usually isn't enough for a project of this magnitude. The fourth 5 ounce can should arrive Tuesday which will definately finish the job. With temps in the 90s, early morning is the best time for application as this stuff exotherms more quickly than other fillers even with 206 slow hardener. Small batches keep things from heating too quickly. So to forge ahead I turned my attention to the galley which is coming together rather nicely. A previous owner had pretty much hacked and chopped it to a piece of junk. Thanks to DannyS for posting a picture that provided some direction of the layout. I also incorporated some details from the 77 model to come up with what I hope is a reasonably functional galley layout. The three cutouts are for the stove, sink (forward), and the icebox aft of the sink. Once again I am using Joubert Okoume 12mm plywood for the facing and 1/2 inch marine fir for the top. As you can see the formica is white and not awful orange. So progress is still happening despite nature's best attempts to bring whole thing to a halt.
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I've got one word for your deck repair non-skid...... Griptex! Forget the factory pattern and mix in some Griptex and be done with it..
What's griptex? I would be curious to know it's application as there is a certain technique when molding in nonskid that not everyone would be willing to try. It does require quite a bit of trial and error before the technique is mastered to an acceptable level. As of now I'm virtually complete with the molding of new gelcoat nonskid. Thank you for the input as the product you describe sounds interesting.
Griptex is a non-skid additive made by Awlgrip. You can mix it in with either gelcoat, paint or an LPU and simply roll it or spray it on. Many builders use it as it offers better grip/safety than does a molded non-skid. Look at any new J-Boat and you'll see Griptex..
From the factory standpoint molded in non-skid is cheaper and easier as the fabric was laid into the jig when the female mold was made. When doing deck repairs it is far easier to use a product like Griptex or any of the other non-skid additives. After taping the non-skid areas you can often do the entire deck in a day..
I used Griptex when I re-did the decks of my O'day 23. It certainly provides a great non-skid surface but it does not look like the original. For my 39 I will restore the original pattern like Joe.
Main Sail, my guess your hardcore racing sailor where functionality is top priority we all have our point of view and all seem welcomed at 25yearslater.
PS. my daughter's wedding is over so (now that I am broke) the wife lifted the moratorium on work on the 39. My first project was rewiring the charging and cranking circuits. I replaced the 2 gauge wire with 00 and gained about 20% in starting RPM. Nearly every lug was loose due to overheating. I don't know how the PO ever got the engine started.
Main Sail, my guess your hardcore racing sailor where functionality is top priority we all have our point of view and all seem welcomed at 25yearslater.
PS. my daughter's wedding is over so (now that I am broke) the wife lifted the moratorium on work on the 39. My first project was rewiring the charging and cranking circuits. I replaced the 2 gauge wire with 00 and gained about 20% in starting RPM. Nearly every lug was loose due to overheating. I don't know how the PO ever got the engine started.
Well I haven't blabbed about much lately. 'Cause I've been playing gelcoat madness. Sanding and sanding and even more sanding. I'm gonna have to buy stock in 3M at the rate I'm burning up sandpaper. Be that as it may I'm just about done with the starboard deck fairing and will probably complete it tomorrow. Then it's all cosmetics. By golly I'm getting there. A new 100% jib and within 2 weeks a new main by none other than Neil Pryde are ordered or will be ordered. In regards to griptex, it sounds like a fantastic solution to create a nonskid deck but like Ruidh and Panta Rei point out I'm being fanatical in recreating everything to it's exact original configuration. It's not for everybody so griptex might be a suitable substitution. When doing the interior gelcoat spraying a VOC respirator is an absolute must. I am using the precolored 'cream' from Jamestown Distributors and when thinned 30% with styrene it sprays beautifully with only a little orange peel. I used 400 then 800 and finally 1000 wet or dry sandpaper and buff with a standard automotive polishing compound made by 3M for a high gloss shine. The cream is virtually an exact match for the Oday interior. So heres the completed rear cabin bulkhead all shiny bright and without the holes.
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Jibes, where ya been buddy? Don't say sailing or I'll pout. The deck fairing is complete as of right now. All that's left is barrier coat and the nonskid and YOT has a complete new deck. I can't describe how happy I am to see everything coming together and know the end is in sight.
