Anchoring...yes, I'm asking an anchoring question.

[jssailem]

in sailfanatic's video, in the background, there is a macgregor 65', very cool!

Jon, you have the eyes of an eagle when it comes to boats.

 

[Kings Gambit]

Thanks for all the great advice! I'll try the wind method. The wife and I had some hand signals worked out, but they could use refinement so again the advice might work well.

Funny you mention Princess Cove - that's where my wife and I realized we need to get better at stern tying. If a wind is blowing into the cove, it seems hard to get the stern in line with the shore the way you want it, but maybe get the rode out you want, then go to show and pull the boat to an angle once tied up? I'll follow KGs advice.

I have my anchor marked simply in 10' increments. 5 red, then it switches to blue, then double at 100'. I just count it going down (I'm not really that bad at math).

And downloaded an anchor app so will play around with that.

Awesome stuff, thanks!

Kevy,
The strict wind method is a general one that won’t work out well in a cross-wind situation where the boat is attempting a stern-tie to shore. It’s all very nuanced. I think the best way to do Princess is to arrive in light wind, probably morning, and weak tidal current. You’ll probably have to maintain position using the engine b/c the boat will lie athwart the axis of the cove; thus athwart the tidal current flow, while attempting to set. It’s hard with two people because one has to get off the boat to run the line ashore. At low tide, it’s a steep climb up slippery rocks to reach the ring, etc. The two times I’ve stern-tied in there, I had a crew of four. Yes—trim the stern line to pull the boat into final alignment; use the cockpit winch to tighten.

BTW. You must be careful not to drop on another’s anchor tackle. If there is a boat shoreward next to your pick for a berth, his tackle may angle out toward the opening, across your “lane.“ If you try to drop straight out from your ring, you might drop over it. There could be a lot of chain out there.The deeper into the cove you go, the easier it all becomes. If you arrive late, the available berths will be nearer the opening.

 

[shemandr]

I agree that you don't need to aggressively back down on the anchor as soon as it's on the bottom. I've seen more boaters pull their anchors out doing this. So I also agree let wind/current ease you back to let the anchor interact with the bottom. Later you can apply reverse to "Set" it.
But I think the hardest part of anchoring is picking a spot - especially in the more crowded anchorages of the Northeast. For your boat you need to drop the anchor around three boat lengths ahead of where you want to end up (Assuming 15' of water). And of course you need to visualize your boat doing a 360 and have that 130' diameter clear. Fortunately, the boats swing somewhat in unison so you can drop the anchor less than that 130' from the boat upwind or current of you. In fact, sometimes you have to get closer than really comfortable.
Of course a mooring is the best way to sleep soundly. You don't have to choose a spot, they are spaced adequately and rarely drag.

 

[Sailfanatic]

hey, in sailfanatic's video, in the background, there is a macgregor 65', very cool!

Home, Marblehead, MA | Independence

Cruise in and around Marblehead, MA aboard the Independence, a 65-foot luxury sailboat ideal for a full day outing.

sailindependence.com

 

[Kings Gambit]

Kevy,

The best way IMO to check your anchor position during the night is to use the radar. After setting, get your radar range and bearing to the shore, or to something on it from the nav station monitor. When you get up, check the radar to confirm your distance. Have a compass below at the nav station, a small mounted Ritchie or flat, desktop Suunto, so you know how the boat is lying. You’ll know if you’ve swung around, altering your radar range, etc., but not due to dragging. The “black sky” approach is ok as long as you have some reference point for that as well. If you go up top, check the depth at the binnacle.

 

[jssailem]

For those who find an AIS system as a needed addition to their boat electronics, often one of the features is an "Anchor Watch" module that you can turn on when you set the anchor. You set a radius around your position to warn if the boat drifts beyond the alarm distance. Be careful in setting the circle. To large you might find your on the rocks or a shoal before the alarm sounds. Too small and you could be hearing the alarm all night .

This gets us to an important step in your anchoring plan. Survey the area you want to anchor. Explore the charts for your bay/cove/beach front. Assure that there are no obstacles listed that might foul your anchor or you might drag across. You do not want to hang your anchor up on cable that is providing phone/internet or maybe power to the locals of the island.

While tucking yourself nicely in behind Steep Island in 4-7 meters of water might seem inviting

That squiggly magenta line should generate screaming red flags in your mind.

Once sure the area is a safe anchorage, drive your boat in and around the area you want to drop the hook. Watch the depth meter. Let it share it's secrets with you about the area of your intended anchorage. If the water depth suddenly changes from 15 ft to 5 ft. this might not be the place to spend the night.

Be mindful of tides, especially up here in the Salish Sea. A 10 ft tide change in 17 ft of water might leave your 6ft keel stuck in the mud for the evening.

Be mindful and safe out there.

 

[Kings Gambit]

I think AIS is an excellent up-grade for folks who have learned how to do stuff without it. Us “old timers.” I’ve said before, in good company, that beginners should not become dependent on digital navigation. Use it as an “aid.” A view that world-class sailor and author, John Kretschmer, has emphasized in his most recent book (Sailing to the Edge of Time), as well as earlier. I always have the paper chart out on the nav table, including when at anchor. I like to study it.

 

[jssailem]

KG we might be able to sail together, but we would have to agree not to fight over the charts...

 

[Kings Gambit]

I hope we do get to all sail together sometime. Sorry it’s not lookIng good for your plans for the ‘round Vancouver Island Cruise Due to covid. Or, have I missed anything of late?

 

[Terry Cox]

Funny you mention Princess Cove - that's where my wife and I realized we need to get better at stern tying. If a wind is blowing into the cove, it seems hard to get the stern in line with the shore the way you want it, but maybe get the rode out you want, then go to show and pull the boat to an angle once tied up?

Hi Kevy, stern tied solo a number of times in Princess Cove in light wind conditions, no problem. The last time I did it was in a southerly blow, wind hitting the boat starboard abeam hard. No problem getting her stern tied, just worked with the conditions. Once I settled in, the wind pressure against the boat actually bent the half inch steel anchor shank and was slowly forcing the anchor to move sideways. Never again. I pulled everything up and moved out into the center of the Cove and set my normal anchor without a stern tie. She stayed put through the night, not moving an inch.

 

[jssailem]

No KG. Pretty much a year delay and hope for a 2021 cruise. Now I am exploring the possibility of charting out the routes the rum runners of the Prohibition days took to more booze from Canada to Seattle.

 

[Terry Cox]

One thing I've noticed when anchoring in a blow, normally shoot for around twenty feet of water. Drop and let out 130+ feet of rode. Wind will catch the high freeboard on our boat and away the bow goes. The first thing tp happen is the slack rode becomes taught, the anchor digs in and the bow stops dead in its tracks. Then the stern will swing around and line up with the bow pointing into the wind. Happens every time and no need to back down at this point because the anchor is set down to almost China.

 

[NotCook]

We use old fashioned "crane operator hand signals" where I hold up a hand where she can see it easily. Speed is usually always idle... Just put engine in and out of gear.
Pointing 'up" and circling the hand = forward. Clenched fist = stop. Point hand/palm down = reverse. And pointing port or starboard, steer appropriately. Increasing the hand movement quickly means = do this with a bit more vigor.

You’ve already got most of the good advice from the first few responses.

With respect to skippers and crew yelling back and forth to each other over the wind noise, FO nailed it. Our hand signals are slightly different, but agreeing on them beforehand is the key. For us a closed fist means “neutral”, as I will determine when to put into neutral depending on our way and the wind. We have one more signal that many won’t have: pointing port or starboard and spinning the finger to indicate “bow thruster” port or stbd if we need to kick it over just a little to keep the bow into the wind without adding way. Rarely used, but good to have at your disposal.

As already mentioned, Calculating scope based on the distance from the bow roller to the sea bottom is key, and a common mistake is using only the water depth. And it’s not rocket science. The scope references are guidelines. If in doubt, add a little more.

Regarding marking your chain, we have used various methods including painting links, or using zip ties. When we bout our boat 17 years ago, it was marked in fathoms. I don’t think in fathoms, and it made for too frequent of marks. When we refreshed our marks, we just did 25’ increments. We rarely have less than 50’ of chain out (in 9-12’ of water) and the next 25 foot mark is easily visible as it comes out on deck, so you can decide how much more you want in the water. Three marked links is 75’.

One other thing: if the bottom is shale, anchor somewhere else. It doesn’t matter how much scope you have - the anchor won’t hold in shale.