Anchor to chain connection

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Taylor

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Feb 9, 2006
113
Warwick Cardinal 46 Seattle, WA
I have a new anchor (a 25KG Rocna) and I'm reviewing my anchor to chain connection. I have 7/16 chain (more or less) and currently there is a large galvanized connecting link and a eye & jaw swivel galvanized swivel. What do folks think of the stainless double jaw swivels specially designed for this purpose?
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
The problem with stainless is that it looks

good right up to the minute it fails. Galvanized steel will look really crappy and still be strong. I don't trust stainless for something as important as a part of my ground tackle.
 

Rick I

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Jan 6, 2007
414
CS36Merlin and Beneteau 393 - Toronto
I would not use stainless

as I understand it will corrode rather quickly in an environment where there is no oxygen. Rick I http://groups.yahoo.com/group/beneteau393/ beneteau393 : Beneteau393 Group
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
Id avoid stainless ....

Stainless steel, especially the 300 series of stainless, is quite vulnerable to fatigue failure. To prevent and retard fatigue you have to use stainless at 1/3 of its rated ultimate tensile strength when cyclic/repetetive loads (such as with anchor rodes) are applied. So, if you MUST use stainless select a swivel that is THREE TIMES AS STRONG as the weakest link in your rode. That stated, fatigue cracks in common stainless steels can begin at loads substantially below the 'endurance fatigue limit' (~about 30% of ultimate tensile strength). So you wind up with TWO failure modes ongoing at the same time in a water-wetted environment: 1. micro fatigue cracks (which are additive) 2. crevice corrosion inside of and propogating from and enhancing the micro-cracks .... all/both slowly destroying the base metal. Common Stainless steels really shouldnt be used for any 'underwater' application, even if passivated and or electropolished.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,703
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
I have ..

I have never used a swivel for anchoring. That said I use chain plus rode so any twist is absorbed by the rode. I have seen my fair share of broken anchor swivels and as such don't use them. Perhaps after every hundred anchorings I might need to lay out my anchor rode and take any twist out of it. My advice would be to use a FORGED shackle stamped Made in USA. Most if not all of the imported galvanized shackles are CAST not FORGED. Be very cautious when buying shackles Hamilton Marine sells high quality galvanized shackles. Two years ago a Seafarer 38 broke free of it's 800lb mushroom mooring in a 40 knot blow and caused 25k in damage to my boat! The weak link that caused all this was an imported CAST shackle less than 5 months old.. FORGED only! P.S. You're going to LOVE your Rocna!!!
 

Taylor

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Feb 9, 2006
113
Warwick Cardinal 46 Seattle, WA
Simple connections

Rocna points out in their instructions that they have slotted the anchor so you can pass a shackle (rather than the pin) through the anchor and avoid the need for double shackles, and the only way I can see that working is without a swivel - chain to shackle to anchor. I'm running all chain rode, and it goes through a gypsy, so it tends to move any twist right down to the end of where the anchor can rotate as the anchor comes up. Does it make sense to others to skip the swivel and go for a very simple set up? One other question - my old CQR had a storage pin through the bow roller assembly that went through the anchor and held it in place when the chain was slacked off. I'm having a hard time getting the new anchor to line up... I'm going to try a different sized roller and see... but how to most people hold their anchor - do they pull it tight against the roller and use a chain stop to lock it in place? Yes - I'm looking forward to my Rocna - I'm going from 44lbs CQR to a 55lbs Rocna. My CQR used to like to tour the harbor bottom a couple of times before it would grab. Plus I had to lift the pivot over the roller to get it to launch.
 

Rick I

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Jan 6, 2007
414
CS36Merlin and Beneteau 393 - Toronto
No pins

I lash all my anchors with light line. Take it around a few times. I don't like pins because I've seen them bend when the boat has gone through some rough seas and then it's a real chore to drop the anchor. With line, in an emergency, you can just cut it. As for swivels, they're just a weak link, why would you want to add one?
 
B

Benny

Remove the swivel.

The swiveling action creates friction and wear. After seeing a 35 lbs swivel plow anchor break at the joint would not trust a small swivel to handle the same forces. Keep it simple and use quality components, your boat and your life may depend on it.
 
May 5, 2004
181
Hunter 386 Little River, SC
The following web site....

... has Alloy Steel shackles that are supposed to be stronger than forged, and do not require oversize links at the ends of the chain Do your own homework here, I have no metallurgical background (I probably cannot even spell it correctly) Others, jump in with opinions Jeff
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
What we are talking about is a five dollar

swivel. Change the damn thing every couple of years fer cryin out loud. We get so hung up on the low cost stuff and spend the price of two gallons of diesel fuel else where....................
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,703
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Um Ross...

He's not talking about a $5.00 swivel! Click the link in the original post and you'll clearly see that it's a $135.00 swivel!!!
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,703
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Actually...

Quote: "The following web site....... has Alloy Steel shackles that are supposed to be stronger than forged, and do not require oversize links at the ends of the chain." Actually the are forged and are the same shackles that Hamilton Marine sells. This guy's just trying to put a good spin on it. Stay away from the anchor swivel on that site though. If it does not say forged it's most likely NOT forged! "Alloy Forged Shakles Link: http://www.1st-chainsupply.com/attachments/misc/shackles_alloy.htm
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
First of all I don't trust stainless steel for

ground tackle. forged galvanized eye and eye swivels and a pair of shackles will serve very well.
 
L

Liam

Stainless is just fine

I have used stainless Jaw-Jaw swivels for 35 years and never a problem. Get one that is 3-4 times the working strenght of the chain and you will have no worries. Stainless steel is just fine for anchoring use... Stainless Anchors, Stainless chain, Stainless shackles, etc. Just make sure that the load ratings are correct and you will be okay.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
My concern about the use of stainless steel

is in the inspection of old material.
 

Rick I

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Jan 6, 2007
414
CS36Merlin and Beneteau 393 - Toronto
Never stainless

If you use your anchor for anchoring and not a bow ornament never use stainless. I am attaching a long thread from another forum that goes on at length about the dangers of using stainless for moorings or anchoring. Rick I http://groups.yahoo.com/group/beneteau393/ beneteau393 : Beneteau393 Group
 
Apr 12, 2005
263
Hunter 36 Cobb Island
Will these swivels go thru the windlass gypsy?

I tried out my windlass this past weekend and the chain jammed up in the gypsy because it had a twist in it. How do I avoid these twists? Does the swivel travel thru the gypsy like a chain link?
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
if the swivel is at the anchor then it never gets

to the windlass.
 
Jun 12, 2004
1,181
Allied Mistress 39 Ketch Kemah,Tx.
Lots of things to consider

Since you didnt fill out your profile, we have no way of knowing what boat you have. A 25KG anchor and 7/16" chain leads one to believe you have a fairly large boat, but then again, lots of people go for 'overkill' on smaller boats which is also a good thing. The normal 'swivel, shackle, chain,rope' rode with all being in good condition, usually has the swivel as the weakest part of the system, then comes the shacke, then the chain and finally leaving the rope as the strongest part of the system. When you get to the high dollar stuff, this order of strength can be changed. The best thing you can do is figure out what size system your boat needs and match your rode components accordingly. If you have a 25 footer, you have nothing to worry about. If you have a 50 footer, then conside your system individually based on safe working load (SWL) Tony B I'm still on my rant about filling out profiles. Whats the big deal? Taylor, I'm notr attacking you personally, I just think it would be so helpful when asking a question as it would be in responding to someone elses question. IMHO Tony B
 

Taylor

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Feb 9, 2006
113
Warwick Cardinal 46 Seattle, WA
Profile updated

Tony - I did not realize how the profile stuff worked.. still having a few problems -I can't get the photo to display to the left of my posts. Anyway, she's a 46 footer, weighs about 27,0000 lbs. Craig, thanks for the follow up, I had not seen that page on your website. I'll go with a quality shackle for now, as I rarely make it out of my 180' of chain so it is likely not to be twisting except for swing. We are usually only anchored overnight.
 
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