anchor riding sail

[Bob 04 H260]

I just made an anchor riding sail for my 260. I had an old hank-on jib for my Mac that had been in tha garage for a long time. It measured 9ft across the foot so I measured 9 ft from the luff to the clew and cut it across there then sewed a seam along this edge. I replaced the hanks with brass snaps to go over the topping lift and sewed a piece of webbing at the top for the halyard. I don't know if it will help the sailing at anchor or not, if it does it will be a good hour invested. I just tried it on while in the slip this afternoon to see how it fits.
Bob

 

[George H260]

I've studied the sailboats in our harbor and have observed some sail on the anchor more than others. The H260 seems to swing more than most boats. Maybe it has something to do with the freeboard? Unless my wife complains, I try to ignore this situation.

Swinging on a mooring is an irritation and those subject to seasickness can be affected. I've found attaching the mooring pendent to the bow "U" bolt instead of the forward cleats or rigging a bridle reduces swing somewhat.

Swinging at anchor is another matter. As the boat hunts back and forth, exposure to the wind is increased thus effecting its holding power. Many cruisers use a riding sail to reduce swing. A riding sail lessens yawing by bringing windage aft. Any sailmaker can make a riding sail or they can be purchased. Google on "Sailrite Riding Sail" or look into the innovative "FinDelta" by Banner Bay. The riding sail should be tight and as far aft as possible. Most boats attach the riding sail to the back stay but since the H260 does not have a backstay I use the topping lift.

Normally the riding sail is aligned with the boom and boat centerline. Another option is to sheet the forward part of the sail to one side so that the boat is actually sailing to one side of the anchor rode. The boat should swing out until it reaches an equilibrium between wind and topside windage. Locking the rudder a few degrees to one side may also help keep the boat pointed in the same direction.

Adding chain to the rode and/or lowering a “sentinel” or “kellet” to increase the curve or centenary on the anchor line is also an effective means of adding weight to the anchor and reducing swing.

Bottom Line: I've only used my riding sail a few times and I'm not sure it's worth the effort. One solution I like is to rig a bridle from the port front and stern cleants and tie the pendant or anchor line about 20 percent back from the bow on the bridle. The best knot for the bridle is the Bowline on a bight (See: http://www.animatedknots.com/bowlinebight/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com) That way the boat is canted to the wind and does not swing. It's actually like hoving to.
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[Bob 04 H260]

George, as usual lots of good tips. I just moved up to 75 ft of 1/4" chain on my anchor rode so will have all chain rode in most of the places I anchor. I combine that with a chain hook and two 15 ft, 3/8" dock lines in a bridle so would be easy to turn the boat as you suggest.

I looked at the delta sail design but did not think it would work for me as I like to keep the bimini up at anchor, if I had split backstays then maybe....

I would like to try using the anchor sail with the mainsheet moved over to the stantion on one side of the cockpit and the anchor sail sheet tied to the opposite stantion forward of the mast, with the sail very flat.

I also read that if you anchor from the stern instead of the bow they settle right down and do not swing at all as all the windage on modern boat designs is forward. If the waves were small then I guess that might be an option.

We had one bad night on our last Florida cruise, anchored out in the north end of Lake Worth with a 45 kt south wind, so about 35 miles of fetch. Big waves, close together and the boat swung back and forth all night long. I kept an eye on the GPS but the Delta Quickset held fine.

Bob