Anchor chain marking?

rlamb

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May 21, 2013
66
Hunter 46 Alameda
I have 300 feet of galvanized anchor chain (and windlass) on my Hunter 466. I have used basic hardware store paint to mark distances on the chain but it pretty much comes off after a couple uses. Has anyone got a recommendation for either special paint or other methods to mark the chain?
Thx
Roger
 
Jan 4, 2006
6,526
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
Has anyone got a recommendation for either special paint or other methods to mark the chain?
Recently added a windlass under orders from my back specialist. This guy knows less than nothing about sailing but I took his recommendation anyway.

The 50' of chain (with 300' of nylon line) only contains a couple of zip ties to indicate when the anchor is about to surface but I've never had any problems with these indicators. Went through this last summer with about a dozen deployments and no loss of these two ties.

I don't think anything is too permanent when the chain goes through the gypsy but at least these are easy to install if lost.
 
Oct 29, 2005
2,358
Hunter Marine 326 303 Singapore
I used at least 2 colored cable ties for each mark on chain and the rope. If one gets lost there's another. It stays on for couple of uses as the windlass would grind at the cable ties each time it passes.
 
Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
I have small tags made out of material like truck tarp... marked in ten foot increments that connect to the chain

about 1 inch wide, 5-6 inches long... with a short slit at one end to pass the tail thru after going around a chain link.
I think you could make them but the ones on my rode look like they are store bought.

Im not sure how long they would last on a chain running over a gypsy, but if the chain is not under extreme tension at the time the tag comes over, I would think it would last quite awhile as the material is tough.
 
Jul 25, 2004
359
Hunter 42 currently in New Zealand
Anchor chain markers

I recommend Imtra Chain Markers. You can get them from Defender and a number of other suppliers. I have sailed over 50,000 miles, and have changed out my anchor chain over four times over the last 24 years. I've tried wire ties, all kinds of paint, everything. These things really work. I've never lost more than one or two between chain turnovers (when I clean, spray galvanize, and turn end-over-end my high-strength G4 3/8" 300 feet of chain on my Passage 42). I put three or four of them together every 10 meters of chain over the 300 feet of chain. They are great, and I've not used anything else since I discovered them ten years ago. If you have metric sized chain, they work as well.
 
Jul 27, 2011
5,009
Bavaria 38E Alamitos Bay
On Anchoring: “I have no doubt that by far the most numerous cases of parting of chain or cable [rode], or breaking the anchor, are caused by a sudden jerk; but a long scope will, in great measure, render such a jerk harmless, as it is only to be dreaded when riding short. Any man in charge of a ship at anchor with the necessary quantity of chain cable on board, and space astern, to allow him to make use of it, but who neglects to do so, must be considered to be the author of his own misfortune, whether it amounts to the loss of his anchor, or the loss of his ship. No excuse can be offered for such neglect, which must originate either in indolence, or in a mistaken notion of the necessity.”

J.M. Murphy, 1849 (the originator of Murphy’s Law?).

Reading the latest issue of BoatU.S.magazine makes me wonder if there is any longer a need for chain markers, the author recommending 8:1 to 10:1 scope as virtually routine. Put it all out, all 300 ft!!, what the heck? Anchoring in 30 ft or more is not uncommon [albeit not preferable] along the coast of California or at the offshore islands!

Seriously, I have not tried the chain markers; I think I may b/c nothing else has worked for me either for chain! Typically, I run out nearly all of my 160 ft of chain rode for most anchoring situations so they might be superfluous. The 9/16" nylon rode that follows it is clearly marked off in 30 ft increments.
 
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Feb 26, 2004
22,786
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
KG makes a good point, but if I didn't have a windlass...

What I've found is that many boaters put too many markers on their rodes.

If you anchor in 12-15 feet of water, how many do you need past or even before 100 feet of rode?

Then add markers for 20 feet of water and 30 feet of water. Most of us don't anchor in depths exceeding those.

Anything in between you oughta be able to manage.

Marking every ten feet is nonsense and useless.
 
Dec 19, 2006
5,812
Hunter 36 Punta Gorda
West Marine

I have used west marine chain markers for many years and they work great
and find them next to the chain area in west marine,I also use plastic ties to let
me know when anchor is almost all the way up into anchor roller.
Nick
 
Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
KG makes a good point, but if I didn't have a windlass...

What I've found is that many boaters put too many markers on their rodes.

If you anchor in 12-15 feet of water, how many do you need past or even before 100 feet of rode?

Then add markers for 20 feet of water and 30 feet of water. Most of us don't anchor in depths exceeding those.

Anything in between you oughta be able to manage.

Marking every ten feet is nonsense and useless.

It is my opinion that a marker every 20 after the 100 ft mark is sufficient.

I do like a marker at 10ft from the anchor and one at 3ft, as this lets me know when im close to home when in drawing it in....

BUT.. when drawing 200ft of rode by hand (and i have 50ft of 5/16" chain) its nice to see the "mile stone" markers all the way to the anchor as you are handing the line in.... especially when the anchor is full of kelp or mud.... its a mental thing knowing when you will be able to relax from the back breaking task...
 
Feb 26, 2004
22,786
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
its a mental thing knowing when you will be able to relax from the back breaking task...
Good thoughts, but it still isn't gonna come up any faster! :eek:

The only time I know I'm close is when I see the anchor.:D Anything before that and I'm still hauling (no windlass). :doh:
 
Jul 27, 2011
5,009
Bavaria 38E Alamitos Bay
Good thoughts, but it still isn't gonna come up any faster! :eek:

The only time I know I'm close is when I see the anchor.:D Anything before that and I'm still hauling (no windlass). :doh:
Actually, I can't see advantage to using chain rode w/o a windlass to haul it back up unless perhaps it's going to be down for a long time (several days to weeks):confused:. If moving daily or every other day (short outings, etc.), I'd put down a Fortress with 20 ft of chain; the rest 3-strand nylon rode.:D I carry that ground-tackle set to back up the bower set using chain when the windlass craps out, as it periodically does on this boat. [Bavaria's fairly idiotic placement of the windlass inside the anchor locker where seawater can infiltrate the windlass motor, Simpson-Lawrence Sprint 1000, causes this failure].
 
Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
If you decide to use zip ties leave the tails on as they allow you to easily tell how much chain is out at night by touch.
 
Jul 27, 2011
5,009
Bavaria 38E Alamitos Bay
One problem with that for me is that I usually open the windlass clutch and let the anchor & chain free-fall as the boat is backing (or being blow) away until I've run out a fair amount of chain. I wouldn't want to have a hand around the chain. Also, it basically takes both hands, at least momentarily, to control the clutch tension. Strange set up; I have to insert a winch handle into a socket on the dome [clutch] that tightens up on the gypsy head.
 
Sep 20, 2006
2,912
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
KG makes a good point, but if I didn't have a windlass...

What I've found is that many boaters put too many markers on their rodes.

If you anchor in 12-15 feet of water, how many do you need past or even before 100 feet of rode?

Then add markers for 20 feet of water and 30 feet of water. Most of us don't anchor in depths exceeding those.

Anything in between you oughta be able to manage.

Marking every ten feet is nonsense and useless.

All depends on where you anchor. I typically anchor 10 - 15 ft. and never get as much as 100 ft. out. It's far too busy in this area to have that much out. 5:1 is normal, 7:1 is rude ;)
But, I agree that 10 ft. is too much. Having that much acuracy is redundant. I have 50 ft. chain then mark every 25 ft. on the rode. If you anchor in 11.3 ft. are you really going to do all the math to figure out 7:1 to the foot?

All comes down to wind conditions. You're boat will dance around on the chain and only hit the anchor when the wind hits 30+ knots. I've seen 52 knots and was at 3.8:1 and that was all on the anchor.
 
Jul 27, 2011
5,009
Bavaria 38E Alamitos Bay
All depends on where you anchor.If you anchor in 11.3 ft. are you really going to do all the math to figure out 7:1 to the foot?
Don't they teach the multiplication tables in Ontario?:doh: Ha! Yeah, my main concern with calculating scope is figuring who (or what) I might swing into during the night. I was out at Santa Cruz Island Labor Day weekend; the wind blew from I mean every friggin' direction; 10, 15, or 20 kt; short chop (or remnants) variously on the bow, on the beam, on the stern, for two days. Reverse transom pounding as if I'm in Plumper Cove (BC); rocking through 30 deg arc, at times, WITH the stoppers deployed; boat swinging by at least a length each side; chain growling, etc. My three-pin hand-console switch [Quick] for the windlass broke a pin, so I had to pull the connector [socket] out of its mount and jump the brown & blue wires [pins] to get the chain up w/o breaking the 'ole back. Lucky I had the wiring diagram for it aboard. So much fun! A couple of boats got fouled up together when things changed; so at least we had "entertainment" and a nice sail home!
 
Sep 20, 2006
2,912
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
Don't they teach the multiplication tables in Ontario?:doh: Ha!
They do.... except by that time of day I'm thinking of the beer that's been in the cooler on ice all day and not trying to figure out where 79'-1" is on my rode, when the first mark at 75 ft. is good to go. :D
 

braol

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Apr 16, 2014
348
Hunter 27 Rebel 16 Great Lakes Naval Base, IL
The Navy standard for chain marking could be a starting point, of course you could mark it every 20 feet or so, rather than the 90 feet typical of a US Navy ship. Marking the chain/rope every 20 feet, figuring your main anchor rode at around 300 ft., would give you roughly 16 marked 'shots' which is equivalent to the typical maximum number of shots carried by a warship. If anything, marking your rchain/rope in such a manner would be the epitome of salty.

21-12. For the safety of every ship, the ship's officers and the boatswain must know at all times the scope or how much anchor chain has been paid out. To make this information quickly available, a system of chain markings is used. Figure 21-5 shows the standard system for marking an anchor chain.

15 fathoms (1 shot). The detachable link IS painted red, and one link on each side is painted white.
30 fathoms (2 shots). The detachable link is painted white, and two links on each side are painted white.
45 fathoms (3 shots). The detachable link is painted blue, and three links on each side are painted white.
60 fathoms (4 shots). The detachable link is painted red, and four links on each side are painted white.
75 fathoms (5 shots). The detachable link is painted white, and five links on each side are painted white
Paint each link in the next to last shot yellow. The yellow alerts you that you are running out of chain. Paint each link in the last shot red.
Note: 1 fathom = 6 feet. There are 15 fathoms (90 feet) in a shot of anchor chain.
Note: This method is used through the entire marking procedure alternating red, white, and blue for detachable links as appropriate.



21-14. In addition to color markings, wire markings may also be used. The purpose of the wire marking is to let you count the shots by feel during blackout conditions or if the markings on the chain are worn off or rusted over.

  • [*]lst shot. One turn of wire on the first stud from each side of the detachable link.
    [*]2d shot. Two turns of wire on the second stud from each side of the detachable link.
    [*]3d shot. Three turns of wire on the third stud from each side of the detachable link.
    [*]4th shot. Four turns of wire on the fourth stud on each side of the detachable link.
    [*]5th shot. Five turns of wire on the fifth stud on each side of the detachable link.
    [*]6th shot. Six turns of wire on the sixth stud on each side of the detachable link.
http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/army/fm/55-501/chap21.htm



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