Almost done, photos of mods

[Sastevenson]

Emergpa1,


I know this is an old thread but I am curious how your liking your trex. I'm thinking of using it for my hatch channels, hand rails and kick rails. How did you secure the top slide channels. We're they screwed from the underside? I was thinking of doing this with my hand rails. Do you think that would work or do I need through bolts?

Scott

 

[emergpa1]

Emergpa1,

I know this is an old thread but I am curious how your liking your trex. I'm thinking of using it for my hatch channels, hand rails and kick rails. How did you secure the top slide channels. We're they screwed from the underside? I was thinking of doing this with my hand rails. Do you think that would work or do I need through bolts?

Scott

Through bolts for sure. So far I like the trex a lot. I bolted the channels through. I had to drill a 1" hole through my inner liner to get to the inner skin of the deck. You can't bolt to the liner because it is slanted, and would form an angle with the deck. You can't tight bolts at an angle because they just don't! Trust me. It leaked and or broke the bolts.

 

[emergpa1]

Ust about finished. Still need to troubleshoot trailer lights

Installed new and reinforced batteries and water tank, reinforced and new installation of stern and motor mount, compost toilet, powered vent, new trex instead of teak, new through hulls, reinstalled and reinforced bow cleats and roller, new instruments, cockpit light and cabin light, , trimmed sliding hatch with the old toerails to hide the overhead cabin light wire, and for looks. Also not shown new stern rail grill. Also fixed a leaky chainplate and rear cleat. Reinstalled and reinforced the anchor locker hatch. Buffed and waxed the hull, whew! Gotta do bottom paint next week.

BTW, since those hatch slide were photographed. I removed them and bolted them through. Initially I just screwed them from the bottom but they leaked. Now they are bolted with hex bolts inset so that the heads lie flush. But not bunged. I did not use bungs. The KISS method.

 

[Joe11688]

Keith,
I had a break in one of the wires to my trailer last year. Do you know how I fixed it? I knew which side of the trailer that had the fault by doing a volt meter test so I disconnected the wire to the tail light and the marker light on that side of the trailer and tied a long twine to each set of wires and pulled the wires right out of the frame near the front of the trailer. All it took was a visual inspection, and low and behold there it was. The wire was apparently chaffed and broken.
Fortunately when they wired the lights up at the factory, they wound plenty of wire around each of the light brackets. As it was though, I really didn't need much wire to cut out the bad part of the conductor to splice it back. I made a crimp splice and sealed it with liquid tape.

I couldn't save the small marker lights nor the mounting brackets, so I bought two new marker lights and a piece of galvy angle steel. I need to make those up, bolt and connect them, and I'll be back in business.

Anyway, the twine came in handy as tag lines for pulling the wires back into the frame and back out the exit holes in the trailer.

Where there's a will, there's a way. Give it a shot. It may work for you. Just do a continuity test on your light first, to make sure that it works. Then proceed to the next step.

Joe