After five years, my 9.2A is out of the water. Now what?
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You should never turn a dry cutlass bearing. Always pour a little water at the top of the shaft. You definitely cannot do the final alignment on the hard. It is a cheap to get new parts as it is to try to balance the old shaft. You will need a new coupling in any case. A split coupling is much easier to put back on. I pressed out my old coupling with a stack of washers on a bolt. I couldn't get my prop off the shaft on the boat for love or money. It is a two blade and after I broke two pullers I was able to cheat it out past the rudder by a hair due to the flex in the shaft. Once out I clamped a piece of PVC pipe in a vise, slipped the shaft into it and then honked on the end of the shaft (with the nut on it to protect the threads) with a BFH and it popped right off. Alignment sucks. I thought I was screwed as it looked WAY off when the boat was on the hard. After a few days in the water it was much better. Don't forget to burp your stuffing box to wet it out. I didn't and my drive train was ringing like a someone running their finger around a crystal glass rim when it was running. What I thought was water dripping was actually the wax in the packing melting from the heat! I ended up having to loosen it up way more than I thought.
If you are painting the mast, be sure to replace the stays if they are original. I am doing mine this year. Regarding painting the topsides. It is all about the prep. I watched a guy try to do his boat. He filled and sanded and sanded and filled...then rushed at the end and it ended up a complete abortion. My advice is just to either follow Mainesails sanding and buffing approach or use Poliglow. There are just too many variables to take into account for an amateur to do a good job painting topsides in my opinion. Just the impact of the sun on one side of the hull versus the other radically changes drying times and the darker the paint the worst it is affected.
Found my old post on my alignment woes.
http://forums.sailboatowners.com/in...t-on-an-s2-9-2a.99087/&highlight=s2 alignment
http://forums.sailboatowners.com/in...t-on-an-s2-9-2a.99087/&highlight=s2 alignment
Thanks, Bob. It's great hearing from you and Woody, even if it isn't good news. I'll definitely know a lot more about my boat when this is all over. I must admit I was thinking of cranking up the old buffer and seeing how the topsides look after some work. I've got quite a few chips in the gel coat, though, so I'll have to get very good at patching and matching that first if I'm not going to paint.
I figure all my standing rigging is most likely original, so I'm planning to bite the bullet and have all that replaced. Our riggers are all so busy locally, that I may just send the measurements to Defender and have them do it. I checked sailboatowners, and it looks like they just do the running.
It's been suggested that I drop the rudder and thoroughly go over its bearing. Any thoughts on that?
John
I figure all my standing rigging is most likely original, so I'm planning to bite the bullet and have all that replaced. Our riggers are all so busy locally, that I may just send the measurements to Defender and have them do it. I checked sailboatowners, and it looks like they just do the running.
It's been suggested that I drop the rudder and thoroughly go over its bearing. Any thoughts on that?
John
Bob, I looked over your shaft removal thread, which will certainly make me feel less alone when I'm pulled out my hair. Unfortunately, my set bolts from the coupling's hub are proving more difficult than yours, but then my stuffing box came apart more easily, so there's that. I appreciated the deepblueyachtsupply.com referral, as I wasn't aware of them. I would've thought a new shaft would be a lot pricier. I take it, though, that just cutting the old one just aft of the coupling would be a lot tougher than you'd first thought.
John
John
John, i also have the big flexible vent lines. The "vent" is in the aft cockpit combing. One terminates in the aft end of hull and the other travels forward over the engine to the companion way and down just above the batts.
I'm tempted, since I'm nowhere near a hundred items on my spreadsheet to-do list yet, to put a bilge blower on one of those vent lines. I do get some odors in the cabin sometimes when the engine's running - never enough to register on the CO detector, thankfully - and being able to suck some of that air out of the engine compartment might be a plus.
It'll be interesting to see how long my Mr. Fixit mood lasts. Right now, I feel like I've shifted into Woody mode, where I'm just having fun getting a lot of this stuff caught up and put right (not that it'll be anything close to his standards). But then I step out my front door, and the breeze kicks up off the James River, a few hundred yards to the east, and I see a few white caps kicking up...
It'll be interesting to see how long my Mr. Fixit mood lasts. Right now, I feel like I've shifted into Woody mode, where I'm just having fun getting a lot of this stuff caught up and put right (not that it'll be anything close to his standards). But then I step out my front door, and the breeze kicks up off the James River, a few hundred yards to the east, and I see a few white caps kicking up...
Yeah, I think I'll put up a sign saying, "Landlubbers use rear entrance."
Hope the lightning storm wasn't too bad. I put one of these gizmos on the boat, mainly because it was cheap and I didn't know such a thing existed. Kinda fun.
So, should I just send SECO South my measurements for the rigging, once I get it all down?
John
Hope the lightning storm wasn't too bad. I put one of these gizmos on the boat, mainly because it was cheap and I didn't know such a thing existed. Kinda fun.
So, should I just send SECO South my measurements for the rigging, once I get it all down?
John
no take it all down and send it to them...cost about 35 dollars to ship it down .... if you send the dimensions only you will eat any mismeasurements if they measure it they will make it good ...don't clean the turnbuckles ...they use the thread ware to determine the outcome ....also if you have closed body ss turnbuckle barrels have them sell you new open body bronze you will be glad you did ...ss o ss threads gauld and bronze on ss do not makes adjusting a lot easier you may also in your note to them tell them woody sent ya ....it's no gain to me but it will give you a warm contact with them ...jean and ken are very good people and take your needs to hart and you will be pleasantly surprised at the overall cost ...and they won't sell you anything you don't need ....if ever there was a vendor to trust it's them
Thanks, Woody. Sounds like a plan on the rigging. I'll talk to them about the bronze turnbuckles. The stainless ones are definitely getting very tough to adjust.
The admiral is off for a long weekend and I'm busy entertaining her, so nothing much done on the boat until tomorrow. I measured the square-head retaining bolts on the shaft flange. Looks like 11mm. I've ordered a socket to fit and will try my miracle-working Ryobi impact tool on those next. Found my torch and will try that on the prop. Am watching lots of gel coat repair videos. Will order some patch materials shortly.
I've never been very happy with how the galley's sink drains. If I can find a replacement strainer with a larger-diameter hose connection, I'd like to put in a bigger thru hull for that. I've got a brand new macerator pump that I've no other use for, since I put in a composting head. Any reason I couldn't use it as a sort of soft food disposer for that sink? It'd mainly be just to help move things along; I wouldn't start shoving potato peels down it or some such.
John
The admiral is off for a long weekend and I'm busy entertaining her, so nothing much done on the boat until tomorrow. I measured the square-head retaining bolts on the shaft flange. Looks like 11mm. I've ordered a socket to fit and will try my miracle-working Ryobi impact tool on those next. Found my torch and will try that on the prop. Am watching lots of gel coat repair videos. Will order some patch materials shortly.
I've never been very happy with how the galley's sink drains. If I can find a replacement strainer with a larger-diameter hose connection, I'd like to put in a bigger thru hull for that. I've got a brand new macerator pump that I've no other use for, since I put in a composting head. Any reason I couldn't use it as a sort of soft food disposer for that sink? It'd mainly be just to help move things along; I wouldn't start shoving potato peels down it or some such.
John
i have 1 1/4 inch drain hose on mine...they put too small of a hose on that drain...there is a drain kit at defender or maybe even SBO that works well i will try and see if i can find it ......as far as the macerator goes for a sink drain/disposal ...i would advise against that ...eco laws are changing every time the government has a cup of coffee now days and it will not be long before soapy water will be a no no ...with the larger hose you should be ok ....just sell the pump an put the money in something else...i am sure that the cost of a new drain and hose and larger seak cock will eat all that money up ...now that i think about it went to ace hardware for the drain parts on the sink the hole in the galley sink was a larger hole and i had to use ace is the place for those parts ....they make a waste pipe that goes out the back instead of straight down that worked very well ...that also gives you more useable space under the sink in the cabinet and as you know space is a precious commodity on our boats
I saw that Defender had a strainer that has the 90° bend in it. Probably just the larger diameter will be enough to have satisfactory flow. Oddly, the one in the head seems to drain fine. More of a straight shot, I guess.
I think I may have to open my own marine surplus shop to clear out all the extras on the parts pyramid.
I think I may have to open my own marine surplus shop to clear out all the extras on the parts pyramid.
A little progress to report this week:
I applied a torch to the prop and it popped off with a bang, due to all the tension on it from my automotive hub puller. I'll clean it up and keep it as a spare for the new Flexo-fold.
Finally all the bolts out of the propshaft flange. My cheapo Harbor Freight 1/2 impact did the job nicely. I have the two flanges separated a little, but I've a long way to go before I can slip a socket or some such in between them to start pressing out the shaft from the flange.
I ordered the new, genuine Yanmar engine mounts. I figure I can put them on ebay if I can't make them work.
I got the strainer out of the galley sink and pulled out all the old hose. I bought a 6" long, 1 1/2" tailpiece at Lowes that fits perfectly. I'll shorten it considerably, and will order some 1 1/2" hose and a new 1 1/2" seacock.
My local yacht club has a gel coat expert I'm hoping to rely on when he's back in town next week. I've got lots to do in that department.
I figure I'll save the new bottom paint for last, so it's as fresh as possible before relaunch.
I'll start taking off the sails and labelling the rigging next, I think.
John
I applied a torch to the prop and it popped off with a bang, due to all the tension on it from my automotive hub puller. I'll clean it up and keep it as a spare for the new Flexo-fold.
Finally all the bolts out of the propshaft flange. My cheapo Harbor Freight 1/2 impact did the job nicely. I have the two flanges separated a little, but I've a long way to go before I can slip a socket or some such in between them to start pressing out the shaft from the flange.
I ordered the new, genuine Yanmar engine mounts. I figure I can put them on ebay if I can't make them work.
I got the strainer out of the galley sink and pulled out all the old hose. I bought a 6" long, 1 1/2" tailpiece at Lowes that fits perfectly. I'll shorten it considerably, and will order some 1 1/2" hose and a new 1 1/2" seacock.
My local yacht club has a gel coat expert I'm hoping to rely on when he's back in town next week. I've got lots to do in that department.
I figure I'll save the new bottom paint for last, so it's as fresh as possible before relaunch.
I'll start taking off the sails and labelling the rigging next, I think.
John