Adventures in reefing

[G0ri11@]

Trying to establish a simple reefing setup and hoping to avoid adding any hardware, if possible. Pics of the existing hardware on the aft end of my boom are attached. There are reefing hooks at the gooseneck, so I'm good there; but, having some trouble figuring out the clew.

Seems I can tie a line to one of these eyes and then run it through the reefing cringle. But, do I need to install a pulley on the other cheek of the boom to run a line forward through a cleat to tension the reef point? Is there any reasonable way to accomplish a reef with what already exists here?

 

[Tally Ho]

I set mine up with
1) reef hook at the goose neck
2) reefing line through the boom, up to the reefing cringle, and tied around the boom.
When I want to reef, I have to go to the mast and put the reefing ring on the reef hook to tack the sail, then I thighten the halyard and then thighten the reefing line.

I could not get a single line reefing setup to work well. Kept pulling the tack down below the boom And not tightening the back of the sail well.

Pretty simple, but effective.

Greg

 

[Stu Jackson]

What Greg describes is standard OEM on most boats. It's also called double line reefing: two separate lines for tack and clew. Far superior to single line reefing.

 

[G0ri11@]

I guess I'm still not totally clear on how to attach the clew. I could just tie it down to the eyes, but doesn't it need to be adjustable? My understanding was that the clew reefing line needs to act as a sort of downhaul for the reefed sail.

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

Here's how mine are set up,on both boats-2 reef points
Cleats up close to gooseneck

Off side of boom where lines begin

Blocks on other side where lines lead forward to cleats

And yes, the clew needs to pull down the luff. I use a separate line for each reef, and tie it under the boom

 

[Scott T-Bird]

I had the same Kenyon boom end on my Starwind 27. You have 2 sheaves, one on each side of the outhaul for 2 reefing lines (assuming your sail has 2 reef points). You probably have a jam cleat for each side at the tack end of the boom. You can tie your reef line (both if you have a 2nd reef) to the pad eye on one side, pass it thru the reefing cringle and then directly to the sheave on the opposite side of the pad eye that you are secured to. From the sheave the line is inside the boom to the tack end. You can either use the jamb cleats on the boom or not use them and pass the line(s) thru a block at the base of the mast, a deck organizer and eventually a cleat or clutch on the cabin top at the cockpit so that you can secure without going to the mast.

When you don't want to employ the reefing line you can simply untie the clew end of the line and pass it out from the cringle then re-secure the end at the pad eye. I typically just tied a stopper knot and pulled the lines to the end at the sheaves. On my Starwind, I used cheek blocks on the boom directly underneath the reefing cringles to draw the line down before it passed to the sheave at the clew end. I don't think the cheek blocks really added anything. Our Catalina 320 has Gregs set-up, except our single line system works fine as long as the halyard is adjusted correctly, which isn't always easy to get right, I admit.

 

[Hunter216]

@G0ri11@

I started reading this post and upon looking at your profile I realized you are sailing a J24. I recalled another thread which said that J24’s aren’t typically sailed with reefable mains so perhaps you have a modified setup.

I quickly found myself down the internet rabbit hole reading about J24’s and found confirmation that the non reefable main is in fact the “norm”.

The reason I’m posting was that I also read about people who race their J24’s typically lock their storage lockers closed as there have been times during a knockdown where there has been a flooding risk. You may already be aware of this but thought I should post for a safety concern

@Scott T-Bird has posted a solution so I hope that helps sort this for you.

 

[Stu Jackson]

And yes, the clew needs to pull down the luff.

I think you meant leech.

 

[G0ri11@]

The reason I’m posting was that I also read about people who race their J24’s typically lock their storage lockers closed as there have been times during a knockdown where there has been a flooding risk. You may already be aware of this but thought I should post for a safety concern

Yeah, I installed locking latches onto the lazaretto lids, so no danger of them coming open underway. Also modified the forward hatch so that it can be latched close. The original equipment didn't have any latching mechanism and sometimes would fly open, which was problematic, especially if water is washing over the bow.

Thanks for the look-out though!

 

[G0ri11@]

@Scott T-Bird

Thanks, it's starting to make sense. If I run the line through the sheave at the end of the boom, how do I get it forward to the tack end? Do I need to use a fish tape or something to pull it through?

Not sure if I have cleats on the forward part of the boom, but I can check next time I'm there.

Some of our sails don't have reefing points, but the one that we use most when we're just cruising around Waikiki does. The "racing" setup will be different, I'm sure, if we ever make it that far. Would just be the casual local yacht club races, when they restart.... when (if?) COVID-19 ever slows down.

 

[Tally Ho]

What Greg describes is standard OEM on most boats. It's also called double line reefing: two separate lines for tack and clew. Far superior to single line reefing.

Except I don’t use a line at the tack....just a hook, and I have to go up to the mast to hook the reefing ring.

But it provides a much tighter reef I think.

Greg

 

[WayneH]

My only complaint about two reefing lines is they are dammed obnoxious to deal with when putting the boat to bed. But like PFDs, extremely handy if you need them NOW!!!!!

And if you think you need to reef, you might be about 5 minutes too late.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

@Scott T-Bird

Thanks, it's starting to make sense. If I run the line through the sheave at the end of the boom, how do I get it forward to the tack end? Do I need to use a fish tape or something to pull it through?

Not sure if I have cleats on the forward part of the boom, but I can check next time I'm there.

Some of our sails don't have reefing points, but the one that we use most when we're just cruising around Waikiki does. The "racing" setup will be different, I'm sure, if we ever make it that far. Would just be the casual local yacht club races, when they restart.... when (if?) COVID-19 ever slows down.

It looks like you have Kenyon spars and end parts. I'm going to suggest that you look at the Rig-Rite web site and focus on the Kenyon Spars section. It looks like you have the "E-Section" boom or something similar. I'll bet you can find the mast, boom and all of the parts in their catalogue. Since you have a gooseneck with rams horn, I am going to guess that you might have the E-Section Boom Kit with internal outhaul and reef lines. If it's not that, you should be able to identify what you do have. If that is what you have, there will be sheaves at the tack end and a jam cleat that looks like a lever to pinch the line at the boom. I removed my jam cleat levers because I ran the lines down to the deck and back to the cockpit.

Kenyon Spars Main Page

You can try with fish tape, but it would probably be easier to simply take the boom off and turn it vertical so you can simply drop the lines thru.

Since you are in Hawaii, I am going to suggest that you should have a main sail with 2 reef points to handle your trade winds. There is no law that says you must sail with original stock sails that don't have any reefing points. When you are ready to have a new sail made for your boat, which may be like right now, have it made with 2 reef points so that you can manage your conditions. Don't be bullied by Neanderthals whom might suggest that you don't need to reef. Have fun sprucing up your boat. You can modify it any way you like. Don't be locked into the methods and parts that they used in the 1970's just because the hull and spars are that old.

 

[jssailem]

On Scott’s description of reefing.

I use a two line reef system with lines running through the boom. My boom has the end sheaves like yours. Near the mast the boom has two exit fittings. The port or starboard reef lines exit the boom there and tie to a cleat or are clamped depends on your choice.

Yes you will need to fish a messenger line through the boom to draw the reef line into place. My boom has a plate which when removed allows you access. Be sure in running the messenger that your lines run fair. It is easy to get them crossed over. Goal is to avoid any crossing lines. Crossed lines add friction and an opportunity for chafe.

Opinion: I tie my reef line with a bowline to the boom. Run the line up on port side of sail to the clew reef cringle then down to the starboard sheave. This keeps the line fair. I tie on to the boom because my sail is loose footed and I can. I figure. The reason I am reefing is because the winds are up. I do not want to trust my sail control to a screwed into the boom padeye even if it looks substantial. I suspect the screws do not have backing plates (you can check). All the force of the sail is being applied to the screw threads into the aluminum boom. In my thinking a bowline on good line is a safer attachment.

hope it helps.

 

[Ward H]

Pretty sure it was @jssailem who posted this image showing how he ties the reefing line to the boom. Works well.

To run the line through the boom, I used “fish sticks”, 6‘ fiberglass sticks that screw end to end to make a long rod to pull wires through walls, ceilings, etc.

 

[jssailem]

Yep... Ward you have a great memory... That is the way I rig my reef lines.

The system pulls the clew down toward the bowline, and then back towards the end of the boom. Sweet.

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

I think you meant leech.

OOPS- yes

 

[jssailem]

Leech...

Not what you meant...

 

[G0ri11@]

Thanks for all the advice. I fished the line through a few days ago. It's running through the track on the port side of the boom, so I'll take the aft end, pass it through the cringle, then tie to pad eye on the starboard side. My sail has a bolt rope, so I'm not sure I can tie directly to the boom, unless I'm missing something. Anyway, the line runs forward through the boom and comes out as described by Scott and John. I'll give the system a try this weekend.

I used 1/8" Dyneema for the reefing line and I have some shock cord to tie the buntlines.

 

[G0ri11@]

Seems like the jam cleats at the front of my boom are either missing their lever or otherwise only semi functional. Or maybe just not born to hold 1/8” line.

I guess my options are to upsize the line, replace the jam cleat with an alternative, or lead the line down and back to the cockpit or another cleat? Am I thinking about thisthe right way?