I have a partially open transom which occasionally lets water come in. With colder weather and larger waves approaching, I'd like to install a board along with a channel to hold said board in place. Can anyone thing of a sealant to use on the non-skid that isn't a nightmare to remove one day? I'm leaning towards silicone after waxing the non-skid
Adhesive for non-skid that wont affect color?
- Thread starter Project_Mayhem
- Start date
My 93 has a walk thru transom. While yours probably has the sugar scoop transom, IIRC, your "pass thru" is about the same as mine.
On both sides of the walk thru there are vertical boards, about 2 x 1 with a slot in them. The slot accommodates a piece of 3/16" plastic, probably ABS. It acts as a gate and can easily be lifted out. When installed there is a 2" or so gape at the bottom to allow any water that reaches the cockpit to drain out.
That eliminates the need for scuppers.
In the pic you can see the boards and slots. (Photo is pre purchase.)
On both sides of the walk thru there are vertical boards, about 2 x 1 with a slot in them. The slot accommodates a piece of 3/16" plastic, probably ABS. It acts as a gate and can easily be lifted out. When installed there is a 2" or so gape at the bottom to allow any water that reaches the cockpit to drain out.
That eliminates the need for scuppers.
In the pic you can see the boards and slots. (Photo is pre purchase.)
Silicone would not be easy to remove - it leaves a chemical residue that gets into the finish and would cause problems with any future refinishing. The only way to remove it completely is to grind down to the layup and re-do the gelcoat.
I suggest screws sealed with butyl sealant or 4200
I suggest screws sealed with butyl sealant or 4200
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,529
Wax the non-skid, and the silicon will not hold. What are you trying to do? Seal out all water from reaching the cockpit?
Any adhesive you put on the non-skid will leave a residue. A side frame like Ward's will hold the boards and block most of the water. If you add a base, that will block more water yet also trap what gets into the cockpit. To secure the base, I would use screws and 4200 or Bytul tape. Both can be removed from the deck, and the screw holes are easy to patch.
Any adhesive you put on the non-skid will leave a residue. A side frame like Ward's will hold the boards and block most of the water. If you add a base, that will block more water yet also trap what gets into the cockpit. To secure the base, I would use screws and 4200 or Bytul tape. Both can be removed from the deck, and the screw holes are easy to patch.
You don't want to seal it to the deck. You want the water to drain out under it. Yes, the floor will get damp sometimes, but not with enoug depth to be bothersome.
In this case I used treated cedar for the tracks and bonded them to the cockpit sides with polyurethane Sika 291. Enough gaps (corners and center) that the rain still keeps the cockpit clean.
Try putting a piece of door sweep weather stripping on the bottom of the board. It won't be a complete seal, but that's ok because you should be wearing foul weather gear and boots in those conditions.
The bigger concern should be getting water out of the cockpit should a large wave break over the stern or even spray coming over the bow and sides. The open transom allows that water to evacuate quickly, a board will slow it down. Lots of water in the cockpit that doesn't drain is not good in heavy seas.
The bigger concern should be getting water out of the cockpit should a large wave break over the stern or even spray coming over the bow and sides. The open transom allows that water to evacuate quickly, a board will slow it down. Lots of water in the cockpit that doesn't drain is not good in heavy seas.
Exactly. In fact, I calculated the gaps in mine to meet the World Sailing requirements. Open transom cockpits do not typically have scuppers (drains in the floor) which could lead to flooding from rain alone if the board is sealed too well. That could be embarrassing. Better to have some gaps.
I was thinking silicone because it can be removed without any gelcoat discoloration but it does require a lot of rubbing to get it off.
I think channels on the side and a gasket on the bottom of the board is a great idea. Easy to remove if needed and allows residual water to drain out if needed. Thanks everyone!
I think channels on the side and a gasket on the bottom of the board is a great idea. Easy to remove if needed and allows residual water to drain out if needed. Thanks everyone!
If the cockpit needed to be drained quickly, just lifting the board up would do it. That 1-2sec it takes won't matter. Cut a grab handle hole on the top.
Otherwise, get that garage door type of seal where it is a rubber flap. Put it on the outside bottom of the board and stop the board from fully seating 1/2", so the rubber flap acts like a one-way valve.
Something like this:
Otherwise, get that garage door type of seal where it is a rubber flap. Put it on the outside bottom of the board and stop the board from fully seating 1/2", so the rubber flap acts like a one-way valve.
Something like this:
If the cockpit were reasonably full, the weight of the water will likely jam the board in the slot, just as you cannot lift a dagger board while sailing unless you point into the wind.
Puting the flap on the outside is good.