Adding Wood to a Metal Toe Rail...

Jun 5, 2010
1,123
Hunter 25 Burlington NJ
I'm sorry those prices on the West Coast are like 3-4 times what I'm paying in NJ. I would strongly suggest that one get out of the retail woodcrafters' stores, or sites, and go visit 'real' lumberyards, especially those who cater to 'real' builders (not HoDePo level). I'm building a wine bar for my daughter and found a piece of 3/8" teak plywood (not 4x8) for $30. This is at the local place that struggles when all the 'high-end' customers shop at HoDePo. I can get prices like that every day out of him. Rumor has it he still has the same mahogany planks we ordered from when Cherubini Boat first started producing C44s. Places like this exist everywhere if you look.

My teak-and-mahogany supplier is a guy in southern NJ who builds cabinetry under contract for Viking and Ocean Yachts. He always has stacks of South American mahogany and Asian teak, I mean like 5/4 boards, 12" and more wide, name your board-feet and go. Last I bought from him the Honduras wasn't pretty so I chose the Asian mahogany (probably from Thailand; there have been political problems in buying it from The Philippines for years). It varnished up really well.

I can also get Honduras from a really good lumberyard we have about 15 miles from me. He has stacks and stacks of it, bright red, really pretty; pick your own. I got two nice 7-ft boards for $90 last time.

Sorry; but the 'new reality' on the West Coast sounds like the same one that brought us CAFE standards and warning labels on products that tell us that eating the plastic container may cause birth defects. I would respectfully suggest that people in California awaken to the concept that just past the Sierra National Forest lies a whole rest of a country out here (same as we in NJ tell people in New York)! If California and Washington don't have it, other places do. My brother buys cabinetmaking wood online. And if anyone on the West Coast tells you you're not allow to 'import' materials into your home state, that's what elections are for.

If you still have trouble finding reasonable prices for boatbuilding lumber, perhaps I'll go (back) into the wood business. Call me. :dancing:
 
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Dec 11, 2015
311
Hunter 25 Plymouth
Your photos are great. Your foredeck hatch looks a lot like the one I have! Your throttle/shift is exactly where mine is too. I like the teak sole in the cockpit; but how is it bedded down? Having no pedestal I took the integrity of the cockpit sole for granted, till I sanded down all the old paint and found cracks. Sure enough, there was rot in the core. I filled this with epoxy and laid two layers of cloth on it; now it's much better. I also installed the cockpit drains I've been advising other people to do for years. This is one mod that's just about required.
In regards to bedding down the sole, I used waterproof contact cement.
 
Jun 5, 2010
1,123
Hunter 25 Burlington NJ
After I asked you that I wondered if you'd meant it to be removable! But the contact cement could probably make it so, if you needed for it to happen. ;)
 
Dec 11, 2015
311
Hunter 25 Plymouth
Yah, I tried a wood glue out of a caulking gun but the plywood wouldn't stay down so removed it, cleaned and then contacted it. I love contact cement, 10 minutes and that baby's done and down for the unforseeable future! Lloyds of London has certified this plywood below the waterline to their standards so I believe this wood will wear well. I'll just clean and oil it next year.
 
Dec 11, 2015
311
Hunter 25 Plymouth
I'm also considering placing some of the plywood on my transom however that may be a Pandora's Box as the outboard may vibrate it right off the transom!
 
Jun 5, 2010
1,123
Hunter 25 Burlington NJ
I'm also considering placing some of the plywood on my transom however that may be a Pandora's Box as the outboard may vibrate it right off the transom!
Don't over-complicate! Those speedboats my cousin was making used to be built like that. Customers hated it. Once my cousin took over, that was one of the first options to go.

One thing that may be worth doing is adding G-10 'strakes' to the transom for the outboard bracket to mount on. Remember the outboard is trying to push through the transom, not to fall off! The plywood backing block inside the hull is a common source of wet rot. Consider saturating it with epoxy through holes in the top of the 'glass and, if necessary, adding the 1/4" or 3/8" sticks of G-10 where the outboard bracket goes. These can be prettily painted in Perfection or Brightside to match the hull. I chose not to do this owing to good saturation of the block inside; but in truth doing both is a good bet.

Any time you can have removable hardware bolted through solid plastic (fiberglass, G-10, redboard, koosa, epoxy) without incidental exposure to hydroscopic core (plywood, foam, etc.), you are doing good things in the war against rot. Only in such cases is the argument for butyl tape or silicone (both of which I abhor) even nominally tenable. In the case of an outboard bracket I'm remounting mine with 5200. Done.
 
Dec 11, 2015
311
Hunter 25 Plymouth
Good idea although the boat has only had an outboard on it for ten years. The onboard was used before it so chances are the plywood is still good. Happy Holidays!

Mark
 
Jun 5, 2010
1,123
Hunter 25 Burlington NJ
Your 1976 H25 has an inboard? This was not a factory option; some PO must have done it. Wouldn't mind doing it myself.
 
Dec 11, 2015
311
Hunter 25 Plymouth
Frankly I believe it is stock. I know many 25s didn't have this but the hull, prop, engine compartment, electric start... All look to be factory.
 
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Jun 5, 2010
1,123
Hunter 25 Burlington NJ
My throttle/shift installation looks a lot like yours. I did it myself; it's just remote controls for the outboard.

The H25 inboard was not stock, nor was it ever offered as a factory option for as long as I followed Hunter H25 production (series 1-4, 1972-1982). Some PO had a pretty nice install done on your boat.

That said, I know of ONE H25 with an inboard, the one whose original owner specified painted-white bulkheads and a diesel (probably the Renault 8-HP from the H27) as he meant to go ocean cruising. Nothing's nicer than an inboard (diesel) when you need to run a 'fridge and to charge batteries, you know. (You can also have cabin heat!) But that is the ONLY one I know of; it was done at the factory but was a special order, not an RPO (regular production option), and was done after the sale, not with the sale contingent upon it. It is possible that the factory did yours as well... or else, perhaps, you have that very boat (though I'd thought it was a '74 or a '75).

There is an H25 somewhere, called 'Monegons' or something like that, with the outboard mounted inside the cockpit and through a hole in the counter. The guy moved the rudder aft and tilted it-- rather ugly; but apparently it works.
 
Dec 11, 2015
311
Hunter 25 Plymouth
This was a boat by the name "Strange" which I pulled out of a yard that was part of the University of Rhode Island. All of the facets of the inboard, i. e. fuel inlet/cap, tank, diesel, controls... all look factory not jerry-rigged; could this be a special ordered? The boat feels like a much larger boat in part due to the weight which does slow it a bit however I wouldn't remove it because would rather have the stability with slower speeds! Someday I'll fix the valve so I get compression but until then it's outboard time!
 
Jun 5, 2010
1,123
Hunter 25 Burlington NJ
It was probably a first-class job done by someone at Mack Boring. I wish I had what you have!

BTW-- I have worked at 'boat factories' all my life. All my work on Diana looks 'factory' --except for the very-different configuration that means it can't have been Hunter. Just saying! :waycool: