AC unit install... stern bunk

mytime

.
Aug 26, 2014
86
Hunter 2007 Marlow Hunter 33 Middle River, MD
Stern bunk location of unit:
I made my decision to locate unit under stern bunk based on pros and cons.
When I was considering the project I determined that there was no feasible way to run ducting to the V berth unless the AC unit was in the closet area or under the V berth.

. I plan on the return air grid to be placed under ladder and the supply grate will exit the AC unit with a 7" insulated duct through 1/2 of the bottom drawer in galley...back into the storage area under port side settee and then back into cabin behind where microwave is. The microwave will be on a sliding shelf so while unit is running we will slide it over to port side covering cooler and then when we need to access the cooler we just slide it back. My boat had a non working hot water heater which I pulled out (I do not feel the need for hot water at this time) so the power was already run to that area. If we feel the need for hot water later on I will do a on demand type unit.

Reasons for not locating it in V berth or closet:
Noise and vibration concerns in addition… I did not want to lose my hanging storage.
Reasons I decided stern bunk location:
(Pros)
• Our stern bunk is used to stow our baggage (My wife packs for the weekend like she is going to Europe for a week!)
• The unit fit…. about 1/4 inch clearance on height ….I had to remove screws on fuel tank and slide it back ½ inch to remove old hot water heater and install new unit.
• Furthest point available for noise or vibration when sleeping
• Ease of access

(Cons)
• I lose ½ of bottom drawer in galley
• I lose storage for 1 fender in the port settee
• If we use the stern bunk for sleeping it may be noisy or have vibrations (Not my problem…My bunk will be fine!)
• Biggest concern….Possibility of sucking return air in from engine area …to compensate for this risk you need to provide a VERY nonrestrictive return airflow…This is why I cut out in front of unit 10x16. If I find I am sucking engine fumes I will need to isolate unit with some insulation of some kind

1. Supply water seacock: I will be installing a ¾ Thru hull and valve also a bronze sea strainer close to engine thru hull
2. Above water discharge for exiting water will be about 6” above waterline (not sure on location yet …planning on starboard side around where Nav table is…. if this will not work I of will go to port or stern
3. Condensate drain will be going to bilge …I do not particularly like it there, however I apparently have a lot of water in bilge after it rains so until I figure out where all that water is coming from it makes no sense to funnel elsewhere since the bilge is always wet

I am not 100% sure my install will work as planned

• Critical to have a minimum of 7” insulated duct for your supply (which measures close to 10”) …you want as much volume as possible
• I plan to circulate air to V berth with a fan pointed in that direction
• Worst case scenario the unit does not do the job in the V berth…We close V berth door and sleep in salon (this will minimize amount of cooling area needed)
• Also …It is a must to have a shade or canvas over V berth hatch to keep the sun from making it an oven and close the shades!

When thinking of this install I know of several people who use 5000 btu companionway AC units that do a fair job in cooling the cabin….This is a 16000 btu unit with only 1 duct (similar to how a companionway unit would work).. It is all about volume…If you can get volume of air in and circulate it …in theory it should work……

If not …it will be in closet next year!
 

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Oct 29, 2014
38
catalina 30 MKII DCYC
Howdy MyTime,

We just purchased two weeks ago. The PO put the AC in the port lazerette with the 6" vent coming out in the galley next to the icebox. There is a 3 inch tube running to the head and to the v-berth(Y-D off of the 6" duct). Now,... both of those 3" you can "almost" feel some air coming through but being as the boat is only 30' and there are smaller fans that circulate air, the whole boat seems to stay the same temp. When looking under the port settee and the quarter berth that is how the PO ran the 3 inch tube to the head and v-berth. Looks like a PITA.

The main 6" blows like stink, will slick your hair back like the ole memorex ads, ha ha.

Anyhoo, AC feels good but we have been using the reverse cycle heat and as stated keeps the whole boat warm.

It's a mermaid 16.5 btu unit. I'll get pics in a couple of days.

Outlet behind coke bottle.


Inlet in quarter berth.


Small outlet above head/below sink.





Regards,
Nels
 

mytime

.
Aug 26, 2014
86
Hunter 2007 Marlow Hunter 33 Middle River, MD
Nels, We just picked up our Catalina 30 2 months ago and I have my main vent where yours is located. However it looked factory installed, or whoever installed it did a great job.
I do not know if there was air on the boat before or not ...there was no return air grill located anywhere. I am not surprised you do not get much airflow from the 3" ducts that is why I did not even try to run them, we will just use fans to circulate air thru cabin. If you post more pics can I see where you mounted your thru hulls and AC water pump? Also, where is your exit for condensate drain and AC water output. Thanks in advance!
 
Oct 29, 2014
38
catalina 30 MKII DCYC
Hi MyTime,

Pics will come this weekend. Water inlet is from a through hull next to the one for the muffler. (also is where the depth sounder and knot meter are, access from the dinette sette against the sink) Water pump is mounted under the sink, looking aft across the engine it is up and to the right mounted to the fiberglass under the sink doors.
Condensation is through a venturi like device that uses the outlet water to pick up from the condensation pan and into the outlet hose. Outlet is on the port side all the way aft exiting out of the lazerette a bit above the waterline.

Regards,
Nels
 
Oct 29, 2014
38
catalina 30 MKII DCYC
Hi MyTime,

Here are the pics showing install, thru-hulls etc.

Here you see the two thru-hulls for the engine and AC. AC is white hose, engine is black. Also here you can see the depth and knot meter installed.


So looking aft across the engine and muffler you can see a red pump in the back of the pic. That is the pump for the AC. From there it snakes under the galley and into the port lazerette to the AC. Also you see a tee, this is terminated into the hull with a female hose end. I am guess you could open it to prime the pump or hook up a water hose to flush out the lines or something.



looking directly down into the lazerette you see the AC install. I think I would like to do a shelf or somesuch in here to keep junk off of the top of the AC and lines.



Looking aft into the lazerette you see the water outlet hose for the AC and the small tube is connected to a venturi like device tee'd into the outlet hose. This tube goes down into the condensation pan and when the AC is running the water flow sucks the condensation up and out.


For the heck of it looking forward into the lazerette you can see the compressor for the icebox. I'm not sure if this is factory or not, I'm kinda guessing the PO installed it.
 

mytime

.
Aug 26, 2014
86
Hunter 2007 Marlow Hunter 33 Middle River, MD
Thanks Nels I hope to have mine done within the next 2 weeks I will also post pics...your install looks pretty good...I didn't want to lose that space under the port seat and really never thought of placing the return grill where yours is located. If my location does not work I may rethink it and do the same.
 
May 7, 2011
224
Catalina 36 1430 Lake Lanier
Our boat is a 1985 Mk I. We located our A/C where the Nav Station was.

NOTE: Webasto units (And I assume others) need 2" clearance on all sides in addition to their stated dimensions. Part of this is for the cables and hoses running to the unit.

Fortunately my brother has access to heavy gauge cables, so moving the batteries from under the nav station to the aft lazarette was not that expensive. :dance:

We also upgraded the shore power cables to handle the current draw for the air conditioner. Found the original plastic electrical AC bus for the Shore Power was melting when we got in there :eek:, so all that was upgraded to heavier buses and cable as well.

We cut the top off the nav station where the panel is and removed the sides and front. The sides were marked first for the curve of the seat back and bottom, then cut to fit. 2 Redwood 4x4s I had laying around were glassed in athwartship two inches wider than the original nav platform box had been and 3/4" plywood was screwed down to be a platform. The sides are screwed into these 4x4s and the front screwed to the sides. I happened to have some Teak plywood from a previous boat that the new front will be made from. The return air is in the front of the box (144 sq inches per 12,000 BTU). The ducting is still a work in progress. I ran an insulated 5" duct to the galley where the trash door used to be. The other I reduced to an insulated 4" duct and ran it forward to the hanging locker where a WYE spits it off there and the other arm to the V-Berth.

There are a few BTU calculators out there on the internet, be sure to get a unit large enough to handle your needs, but don't go too crazy because too large has drawbacks too.
The 144 sq in/ton for the return air grille came from a website too, but I can't recall which.
 

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