AC Condensate Diversion
- Thread starter Nodak7
- Start date
Marco I did look at this system seriously but it seems a bit pricey for what you get. I decided not to use it because I thought it a bit pricey ($199 ($166 on sale) is pretty high for a syphon and a check valve). Basically the system I put together is the same thing and, all in, under $30. IMHO
I would Have done the same..... Just came up with that 4-5 years ago. Every year we get new and cheaper products.....
I would guess most will do the same job.... If you still want the pics, I'll be at boat June 8...
I would guess most will do the same job.... If you still want the pics, I'll be at boat June 8...
Nodak7, Others,
I did install the venture pump. All seemed to be working fine. However the flow was significantly reduced and the AC was not operating as well as in past. I even had the breaker kick out once or twice. So I started to think about replacement or larger unit. Then while reading the mazzel site, that the proper way to install is with a bypass loop around the venturi with a valve to control the bypass flow. What a difference!! Now I only divert enough flow through the venturi to create just enough suction to drain pain. No more gurgling, no more froth coming out of discharge etc. You mentioned you would have gone bigger, this will fix that!! Hope this helps someone.
I did install the venture pump. All seemed to be working fine. However the flow was significantly reduced and the AC was not operating as well as in past. I even had the breaker kick out once or twice. So I started to think about replacement or larger unit. Then while reading the mazzel site, that the proper way to install is with a bypass loop around the venturi with a valve to control the bypass flow. What a difference!! Now I only divert enough flow through the venturi to create just enough suction to drain pain. No more gurgling, no more froth coming out of discharge etc. You mentioned you would have gone bigger, this will fix that!! Hope this helps someone.
siphon doesn't seem to work - what did I do wrong?
I recently installed the siphon set up as described by daleheron but for some reason I have no siphon. It doesnt matter if the bypass valve is open or closed. With the bypass closed I get very reduced flow and I don't think it will provide enough cooling to keep the compressor from kicking off. With it in any position I don't have suction. What could I have done wrong? I'll try and post a picture of my setup in a few minutes.
Maybe I have a bad injector? It should work but no suction whatsoever.
I recently installed the siphon set up as described by daleheron but for some reason I have no siphon. It doesnt matter if the bypass valve is open or closed. With the bypass closed I get very reduced flow and I don't think it will provide enough cooling to keep the compressor from kicking off. With it in any position I don't have suction. What could I have done wrong? I'll try and post a picture of my setup in a few minutes.
Maybe I have a bad injector? It should work but no suction whatsoever.
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I just installed this unit and had the same issue. Take the red rubber washer out of the bull connection and back flush the siphon by closing the overboard and flushing the trash out. Reinstall the fitting without the red washer and open discharge. It then sucks. Also verify you direction of flow.
The other issue I see is you should swap the siphon/educator positions. I am not even sure you need the bypass but all those 90 degree turns and valves are knocking down the flow and building resistance on the down steam side, the siphon should be on the straight run. I would repostion the valves to the bulls on the tees of the straight run then 90 to the PVC valve. I would try to do most of it with screw pipe and get away from hose clamp hell.
Get it working with the siphon in the straight run first then add the bypass, that way you know what is causing the issue.
In the Navy we called those units educators and the were connected to Fire Flushing pumps, we used them to pump down the bilges. They were about 100 times as big.
To Marco,
I am very interested in your pictures especially the run from the bilge to the Venturi and beyond.
If I understand this correctly, the Venturi is removing the small amount of water in the bilge that the sump pumps can not get to...
Thank you in advance, lew
Nodak7 - quick question - does the reduced flow of the venturi affect the flow or operation of the A/C? I have bought a Mazi venturi and am concerned with the appearance of the small diameter of the flow through part reducing flow to the A/C....I plan to install mine exactly as you did but would like your feedback before I tackle the task!
Thanks
Gypsy,
I can say I too was concerned about the reduced flow, at first, but it appears that there is no effect on the operation of the AC Unit. However, if I were to do it all over again I would put in the next size up on the venturi. Now that we live in Florida we use it quite a bit more often and the AC works well and the venturi work well to keep the water down in the bilge.
One concern that I had was the effect on the AC water pump operation with a discharge restriction. However, this has not been the case because we have 2 AC Units in the boat both of which operate off the same pump so we have 2 overboard discharges. I never did put a venturi on the second AC Unit for a couple of reasons. First it is a small unit for the aft cabin and we do not use it very often. Second the little bit of condensate that goes into the bilge when it is operating "freshens" the bilge (since for some reason it is never really dry) so I left it.
Hope this helps Gypsy.
Nodak7
Sorted out now
I don't try to suck from the bilge but rather the siphon line fits inside the drain hose from the AC pan where it is at a low loop and sucks directly from there. I'm going to try to run a hose to the bilge and see if it has enough suction to draw on the bilge but its about 3 or more feet to the bottom of the bilge from the siphon fitting so I'm not holding out much hope. If it works will put in line there so I can suck from the bilge or from the drain pan hose. We'll see if it has enough suction for that.
All sorted now:dance:. I took your advice and put the siphon in the straight run and the valve in the bypass. I wanted to keep the bypass in case something clogged in the siphon or if the AC kicked off due to low flow for some other reason and I wanted to have the option to run on the bypass if necessary. It turns out that the siphon is fine now and the bypass is barely cracked open to give good flow but still keep the suction. I still have the hose clamps but will convert to screwed fittings later at my convenience
I don't try to suck from the bilge but rather the siphon line fits inside the drain hose from the AC pan where it is at a low loop and sucks directly from there. I'm going to try to run a hose to the bilge and see if it has enough suction to draw on the bilge but its about 3 or more feet to the bottom of the bilge from the siphon fitting so I'm not holding out much hope. If it works will put in line there so I can suck from the bilge or from the drain pan hose. We'll see if it has enough suction for that.
Update
As an update. I ran a drain line for the AC to the bilge and put the suction in the bilge. It works fine and has plenty of suction to draw from the bilge. I plan on putting a T in with a small valve if I can find one that will allow me to draw the suction directly from the AC Pan normally. When it gets full it tends to slosh out some when I heel over so keeping it nearly empty is a plus. But I also like the ability to draw the bilge down completely dry if some water gets in there, hence the two lines. However, without a valve, if either gets all the water out then it will lose suction and won't pull on the other.
Just don't drain the ice box to the shower drain. Chartered a boat once and the shower wouldn't pump, found the ice box drained onto it and it was full of very nasty goo. I should have charged them for the two disgusting hours I spent cleaning it out.