I am currently in very early stages of relocating my 1984 9.2C. I am looking at a company that will take down the mast as well as transport the boat. I have never unstepped any mast and would like some insight into getting it prepped. I know I will need to get the wiring situated. My concern is the penetration between the compression post and the mast. Are there any major landmines I need to be aware of when removing the wiring? What is the easiest way to get the wiring free? Will I likely have an issue running a pull string behind the cable to facilitate re-installation?
9.2C relocation
- Thread starter Chris Cockcroft
- Start date
Not familiar with your boat but on most boats there is a connector at the mast base inside, where you can disconnect the wiring. The mast gets lifted several inches then you can unscrew the connectors and pull the mast the rest of the way. It is critical that the mast be well supported since if it falls while unscrewing the connectors, it would quickly remove fingers.. have pliers and spray lube ready to get the connector apart.
Chris... Most marina's have experience with mast removal. Check them out to get an understanding of how they would do the work. Masts are heavy on a 30ft boat. You do not want to have a new to the job person working the crane or securing the mast (about 2/3rd up so that the mast when raised hangs vertically).
Your boat is listed as a "deck stepped" mast. That means it has a base on the deck that will look similar to this.
The black piece is the mast base. Attached to the deck with bolts that pass through the deck and either into the compression post. When I had my mast down I removed the mast base. Had it cleaned, powder coated. the wires you see there were the originals that we had to cut as there were no removable connections. I rewired my mast. The pipes you see were used as conduits to install the new wiring in the boat.
As the electrical wires were buried in my compression post I redesigned the connections. Here is the new wire block used to connect the wires in the mast to the wires I ran through the boat to the switch/breaker panel. I put a chase over the wires to hide them against the compression post. Note that the VHF and Radar cables were not cut. They are unbroken and run from the hardware in the cabin to the mast antenna's.
You may find cable connectors in the mast when you raise it. @kloudie1 's advise is excellent to deal with the issue.
After the mast is slung in the crane and before you begin the lift, mark the shroud turn buckles so you know how tight to turn them when you reinstall the mast. It will be a big time saver.
Your boat is listed as a "deck stepped" mast. That means it has a base on the deck that will look similar to this.
The black piece is the mast base. Attached to the deck with bolts that pass through the deck and either into the compression post. When I had my mast down I removed the mast base. Had it cleaned, powder coated. the wires you see there were the originals that we had to cut as there were no removable connections. I rewired my mast. The pipes you see were used as conduits to install the new wiring in the boat.
As the electrical wires were buried in my compression post I redesigned the connections. Here is the new wire block used to connect the wires in the mast to the wires I ran through the boat to the switch/breaker panel. I put a chase over the wires to hide them against the compression post. Note that the VHF and Radar cables were not cut. They are unbroken and run from the hardware in the cabin to the mast antenna's.
You may find cable connectors in the mast when you raise it. @kloudie1 's advise is excellent to deal with the issue.
After the mast is slung in the crane and before you begin the lift, mark the shroud turn buckles so you know how tight to turn them when you reinstall the mast. It will be a big time saver.
I would consider just cutting the mast wiring. And that's what some/a lot of boatyards do. Then while the mast is down re-wire the mast with improvements such as a conduit in the mast if it doesn't already exist, and re-imagining the method of of passing the wires through the deck, and creating a terminal block for disconnecting wires for future mast drops.
Avoid the thru deck fittings outside the mast. They eventually leak and sooner than later get stepped on creating connection problems.
My fav is a pvc tube epoxied thru the deck inside the footprint of the mast that sticks up an inch or so proud of the deck. The wires can run thru the deck in the tube without connections until they can be made inside the boat in some accessible location. In future mast droppings the wires can be disconnected without the drama of trying to disconnecting from the dicey thru deck connecters, getting your fingers inside the mast footprint (With the aforementioned consequences).
Cutting antenna wires needs more consideration/expertise than I can offer. Instrument wires can go to terminal blocks but be careful that cutting such might void a warranty.
Definitely use messenger lines.
As for mechanics of the lift: Of course remove the sails, boom, and its hardware including disconnecting the mainsheet, vang, and reefing lines where appropriate. Disconnect all the lower shrouds and bungie to the mast marking the turnbuckle lengths.
Remove Running rigging such as halyards that run to the cockpit and tie to the mast, and including lines for vangs, cunningham, topping lift, spin pole up a downs if they exist. Anything that goes with the mast and disconnects from the boat.
At the time of going to the crane there should be only the forestay, backstay, port and starboard cap shrouds connecting the mast to the boat. And they should be loosened to the point that the pins can be removed.
Leave little for the yard workers to decide or that impedes their progress. I'm speaking from my experience and disappointment. Their solutions to roadblocks won't be the same as yours.
Avoid the thru deck fittings outside the mast. They eventually leak and sooner than later get stepped on creating connection problems.
My fav is a pvc tube epoxied thru the deck inside the footprint of the mast that sticks up an inch or so proud of the deck. The wires can run thru the deck in the tube without connections until they can be made inside the boat in some accessible location. In future mast droppings the wires can be disconnected without the drama of trying to disconnecting from the dicey thru deck connecters, getting your fingers inside the mast footprint (With the aforementioned consequences).
Cutting antenna wires needs more consideration/expertise than I can offer. Instrument wires can go to terminal blocks but be careful that cutting such might void a warranty.
Definitely use messenger lines.
As for mechanics of the lift: Of course remove the sails, boom, and its hardware including disconnecting the mainsheet, vang, and reefing lines where appropriate. Disconnect all the lower shrouds and bungie to the mast marking the turnbuckle lengths.
Remove Running rigging such as halyards that run to the cockpit and tie to the mast, and including lines for vangs, cunningham, topping lift, spin pole up a downs if they exist. Anything that goes with the mast and disconnects from the boat.
At the time of going to the crane there should be only the forestay, backstay, port and starboard cap shrouds connecting the mast to the boat. And they should be loosened to the point that the pins can be removed.
Leave little for the yard workers to decide or that impedes their progress. I'm speaking from my experience and disappointment. Their solutions to roadblocks won't be the same as yours.
In stead of removing the pins, which seems to be a common practice, unscrew the turnbuckle body from the stay. It is faster than dealing with cotter pins, faster and easier to thread the turnbuckle back on the shroud when stepping the mast, and less likely to be lost, especially if transporting the mast.