85 Hunter 40. Looking into AC, but worried about where to put it. Anyone already done so who can advise?

Jul 16, 2018
125
Hunter 40 Boston
The AC specialist I've talked to said that they're not sure about space, and don't know what units will fit under the benches or whether they'll need all new ducting etc.
I was just quoted $10k to $13k to install ac. And I can't justify that on my salary. The downside is that I'm working from home (liveaboard) and summer cometh, and it's going to be really unpleasant trying to get anything done when it's 95ºf and 88% humidity. usually I'd just flee to a bar or the office to get away from it. But with the pandemic, those aren't options.

I was also considering putting an AC on the deck and blowing the air down my salon hatch, but it appears the one unit I've ever seen designed for that no longer exists. I could maybe rig something up with a wall unit and some construction, but I don't know how practical that is.

Any thoughts fellow huntarians?
 
Sep 30, 2017
69
Hunter 34 Gunpower Neck - Aberdeen, MD
my advice is don’t rush it
placement requires good planning and think through. you have space, noise, wiring, ducting, plumbing, etc to consider

i recommend getting a cheap walmart window unit and putting in the companionway
wil keep you cool while you think and plan
 
Jul 16, 2018
125
Hunter 40 Boston
my advice is don’t rush it
placement requires good planning and think through. you have space, noise, wiring, ducting, plumbing, etc to consider

i recommend getting a cheap walmart window unit and putting in the companionway
wil keep you cool while you think and plan
I had thought about putting one in front of my forward hatch and having the air blow down into it. It'd be an eyesore, and I'd need to move it any time I wanted to go anywhere, but it might keep me cool. Putting one in the companionway seems really simple, but I'm trying to imagine getting in and out having to climb over it every time and it seems bad. Anyone you know done it and been ok with it?

How about an RV rooftop unit mounted over the hatch?
something like this...

not nearly as ffevtive as a marine ac system, but pretty inexpensive way to cool down a boat.


Greg
I spent a couple hours the other day looking into those. The instructions are for cutting a hole in your roof, which is a big nope. I figured there must be someone who had mounted one over a hatch and gotten by just fine, but I can find no examples anywhere. (it's what made me decide to come here and ask) I'd love to put it right over my salon. They make a 16000btu version which ought to be good enough for me. But if it's not compatible with a hatch, or requires taking a sawsall to my ceiling I'm all set.

Or something like this. I use one on my boat from time to time. It works pretty well. The PITA is getting the exhaust hose out a port. If your boat is stationary for long periods of time this could be an alternative.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/LG-500-sq-ft-115-Volt-White-Portable-Air-Conditioner/1000929840
I've had bad experiences with those in the past. I had one in my last apartment and it was spitting water out the vent and flooding my floors with condensation (filled up a 2" deep pan I set it in every day I ran it). And then there's the porthole aspect. Not to mention I have very little counter space to put one on. I'm still considering it as a last resort tho'. I'm just not enthused about the effort or results.
 
Jan 7, 2011
4,727
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
I spent a couple hours the other day looking into those. The instructions are for cutting a hole in your roof, which is a big nope. I figured there must be someone who had mounted one over a hatch and gotten by just fine, but I can find no examples anywhere. (it's what made me decide to come here and ask) I'd love to put it right over my salon. They make a 16000btu version which ought to be good enough for me. But if it's not compatible with a hatch, or requires taking a sawsall to my ceiling I'm all set.
My thought was to position it over the main salon hatch. even if had to be mounted on a board of some kind As an adaptor, then mounted over the hatch. You can get those units with a heat strip too if you need some heat.

On my O’Day 322, the hatch is sort of recessed on 3 sides, so I don’t think it will fit. But that was my idea.

I will probably throw a portable window unit in my companionway when I am not at the boat or when sleeping at the marina. But I don’t live aboard...would not want to constantly climb over it, or move it.

Greg
 
  • Like
Likes: limbodog
May 27, 2004
1,964
Hunter 30_74-83 Ponce Inlet FL
The roof-top method works if you can build a shroud that connects the AC vents to the hatch opening. Problem is your pulling the same cold air cold air into the unit instead of getting the cool are towards the bottom. Maybe a "directed" dual shroud/vent arrangement would help.
As to a main hatch opening and window unit...
I'm about to pull my $200, 5 year old, 5000 btu, Walmart window unit out of storage and put it to work. It keeps the cabin @ 79 degrees f. during the day with a sunbrella shade over the cabin top.
I have a bridge deck aft of the main cabin entrance that it sits on and a custom plexi hatch board that covers the rest of the opening.
Getting in and out is something YOU will get used to. For other members of your crew, there will be gripes and accidents unless you rig one or two additional steps to accommodate the less compliant among them! :banghead:
("Floggings will continue until morale improves")
 
  • Like
Likes: limbodog
Jul 16, 2018
125
Hunter 40 Boston
My thought was to position it over the main salon hatch. even if had to be mounted on a board of some kind As an adaptor, then mounted over the hatch. You can get those units with a heat strip too if you need some heat.

On my O’Day 322, the hatch is sort of recessed on 3 sides, so I don’t think it will fit. But that was my idea.

I will probably throw a portable window unit in my companionway when I am not at the boat or when sleeping at the marina. But I don’t live aboard...would not want to constantly climb over it, or move it.

Greg
Right. The thought was to build a wooden frame for it to sit on. From what I've seen from some RV videos (I'm assuming the RV model is the same as the marine model except for the galvanized bits) it's going to have 4 long bolts that come down through the hole (hatch), and it holds itself in place with a faceplate below the hole. There's a square gasket on the bottom of the unit. So I'd need to make a frame that can hold the unit just the right size, but *also* make it so that rainwater doesn't migrate in through the removed hatch. That'd mean the frame has to be waterproofed somehow. And an additional gasket made somehow that fits around the outside edge of the hatch opening below the frame.
 
Jul 16, 2018
125
Hunter 40 Boston
The roof-top method works if you can build a shroud that connects the AC vents to the hatch opening. Problem is your pulling the same cold air cold air into the unit instead of getting the cool are towards the bottom. Maybe a "directed" dual shroud/vent arrangement would help.
As to a main hatch opening and window unit...
I'm about to pull my $200, 5 year old, 5000 btu, Walmart window unit out of storage and put it to work. It keeps the cabin @ 79 degrees f. during the day with a sunbrella shade over the cabin top.
I have a bridge deck aft of the main cabin entrance that it sits on and a custom plexi hatch board that covers the rest of the opening.
Getting in and out is something YOU will get used to. For other members of your crew, there will be gripes and accidents unless you rig one or two additional steps to accommodate the less compliant among them! :banghead:
("Floggings will continue until morale improves")
Re: roof-top method - are you talking about a portable unit exhausting out a hatch? I've seen those on youtube, but I don't have a good space for it unless I want my salon to be wasted space. It'd eat up my table (plus risk draining water inside) I could see it working for some people, I just think my arrangement is not well suited for a portable with exhaust. The only reason my dehumidifier portable works is because it only needs a drain (my sink) and not a window to blow air out of.

Due to the pandemic, we're not allowed guests at the marina. So I'm not worried about anyone else tripping over a companionway unit. But I would expect myself to faceplant trying to cross over it sometime.
Another possibility would be to put it on the floor of the rear deck and blow cold air in through the porthole that faces the pedestal. I could run a hose from inside to the salon. It'd be in the way of pretty much everything, but at least I'd be able to exit the boat.
 
May 27, 2004
1,964
Hunter 30_74-83 Ponce Inlet FL
No, the rooftop unit I was referring to was the RV kind pictured in post #6.
The old Marine Aire units came with a shroud that split the intake vent from the exhaust vent. I don't think the RV units are built with a shroud.
In 5 years I haven't 'face planted' yet, but I did pick up some new bruises. ;)
 
  • Like
Likes: limbodog
May 8, 2013
629
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Hey limbo,

I'm going on memory here from the long gone original interior of my 86, but my first AC install was an 18500 BTU unit I got from Flagship Marine and I mounted it overtop the starboard side aft cooler. My original interior had a pass-through hatch through the bulkhead from the galley. I cut another access hole into the cabinet in the aft cabin and mounted the unit there. Pain in the butt routing the plumbing and wiring but the ducting was easy - one duct for the aft cabin and the rest I just cut into the hatch for the galley pass-through. Worked mostly good except the v-berth.

Mounting underneath the settees probably will not work for a standard unit due to vertical space limitations, however . . .

Flagship makes a unit that they market for catamarans that is a reduced height unit that might just fit under the port settee:

https://flagshipmarine.com/self-contained-water-cooled/ Look for the FM18RLP unit.

That's the good news, now the bad - I talked to the guys at Flagship the other day and they said they are backordered on compressors until at least July for some models so if it's not in stock they may not be able to do anything for you until late summer.

Short term option, I have a cheapy Walmart window unit sitting on the bridge deck blowing through the companionway while I'm working on mine. Requires several fans down below to move the air around but it's better than nothing. Another big help is canvas shades covering the deck. Really helps!

Cheers,

Mark
 
  • Like
Likes: limbodog
Jul 16, 2018
125
Hunter 40 Boston
Jun 3, 2004
5
- - Edina, MN
My 1987 H40 came used with a 16,000 btu Mermaid installed under the port settee (aftermarket). Initially it froze up often until, upon the advice of Mermaid, I replaced the 4" hoses with 6" hoses going forward. That completely solved the freeze up problem. Ventilation hoses go fore inside the settee and inside the V berth cabinet where it Y's off into one going forward (to serve the V berth) and another coming back aft through the bulkhead (to serve the main cabin). The one going to the aft cabin is actually 4" (because of tight quarters) and passes through the head and aft cabinetry. Under the nav station I installed an inline fan to force more air into the aft cabin. The result is even flow of cool or warm air whatever you need.
This should be a DIY project for a semi-advanced handy boat owner so you would have only the cost of the unit. Putting money towards an installation like this is far superior to a portable hatch mounted A/C.
Warning: when I brought my huge Sawzall on the dock to cut the 6" holes for ventilation hoses the other sailors took a loud, collective gasp of alarm.
 
  • Like
Likes: limbodog

PJL

.
Apr 22, 2014
47
Hunter 42 Nuevo Vallarta, Mexico
Don't have any pictures to show, but there are many sailboats here in high humidity Mexico that build frames to mount window A/C units above a deck hatch. The drain is simply a hose going over the boat's side.
 
Jan 7, 2011
4,727
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
Jul 16, 2018
125
Hunter 40 Boston
I just bought a used window unit to stick in my 32-foot boat companionway. Will see if it works.

did you consider a portable unit ? You can run the ho t out hose to a port light. you need a way to deal with the condensation though...a jug that needs to be emptied or let drain in the bilge...
Something like this...about $300.


Greg
I lack the space for a portable. the only space I have where it could fit is nowhere near a porthole.
 
Jan 7, 2011
4,727
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
I lack the space for a portable. the only space I have where it could fit is nowhere near a porthole.
The hose is pretty long IIRC. I bought one for my son’s college dorm room once.

But if it doesn’t work for you, on to the next idea.

I am going out tomorrow to try and fit my window unit in the companionway, and fitting new washboards made from some 1/2 inch foam board,

Will take a photo if it works out.

Greg
 
  • Like
Likes: limbodog
Sep 11, 2015
147
Hunter 31 Marina del Rey
There are really only two ways to go, three actually. First is a proper marine unit, best solution but noisy, expensive and the hoses take valuable space. Second, a portable unit with an exhaust port through the hatch. Inexpensive, easy to install, you can find the space if you look hard ($350 for the unit). The third option is to install the portable unit on the dock (may be in one of these tall dock steps, make sure there is enough ventilation) and feed only the cold air hose to the boat through a hatch (insulated).
 
  • Like
Likes: limbodog