<DRAFT> 2025-05-13
O'DAY 22
OPERATING & RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS
CAUTION:
Do not begin operating or rigging your boat until you have read all of the following operating and rigging instructions thoroughly.
SAFETY INFORMATION
The mast, the stays, and all other parts of O'Day sailboats under 26 feet, following the general boating industry practice, are not grounded. Should your O'Day sailboat be struck by lightning or make contact with electrical power lines, substantial injury may result to the occupants. We recommend that if you wish to be protected from injury resulting from lightning, that you have your O'Day sailboat grounded by an authorized O'Day dealer or other reputable boat yard in the manner recommended by the American Boat and Yacht Council of New York, New York. Under all circumstances, whether or not your boat is grounded, when lightning is present in your boating area, contact with the mast, the stays, and other metallic objects should be avoided.
We do not believe that grounding would be effective to avoid injury to the occupants of your sailboat, if contact is made with electrical power lines.
When operating your sailboat on waterways, charts should be regularly consulted, not only for normal hazards but also for the presence of electrical power lines. In addition, a lookout should be maintained for the presence of overhead electrical power lines, particularly during launching and hauling.
The following is a list of standard equipment that comes with your boat:
1. A mast with one set of spreaders.
2. A boom.
3. Flat package containing rudder and tiller
4. Box of rigging containing: Main Halyard, Jib Halyard, Headstay, Lower Sidestays (2), and Upper Sidestays
(2), Backstay, Mainsheet, Boom Vang Assembly (less Plate), Downhaul, Outhaul, and Jib sheet.
5. Berth Cushions.
6. Sail bag containing the mainsail and jib, battens for mainsail.
7. Table, Leg, and three penboards that seal off the main cabin.
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT: See your dealer on what is available. Optional equipment comes complete with installation instructions where applicable.
Suggested Equipment For Rigging Boat:
A medium sized screwdriver, a pair of pliers, and a small roll of tape to cover the cotter pins.
Mast
The first step is to remove the two spreaders, which are taped on to the mast. You will notice that these two aluminum tubes, or spreaders, have a hole in one end and a slot in the other end. These spreaders should be fastened with cotter pins on to the fittings on either side of the mast about one third up. Attach all stays to mast. The four short lower Sidestays attach to a tang on either side of the mast, just below the spreaders. Open ends of cotter pins after they are in place and tape. See Fig. 1.
Remove self-tapping screw at the end of each spreader and insert upper sidestay in each.
Replace screws, which will prevent stay from popping out of end of spreader.
Before you step the mast, pull the shackles of the halyards to the foot of the mast and cleat the other end of the halyards to prevent them from getting out of reach.
Stepping the Mast:
CAUTION: BEFORE STEPPING THE MAST, BE SURE THAT THERE ARE NO OVERHEAD WIRES OR TREE BRANCHES. ALSO CHECK THAT THERE ARE NO OVERHEAD OBSTACLES BETWEEN RIGGING AREA AND LAUNCHING AREA.
We recommend that you have assistance in stepping the mast. The mast should have the slot facing aft when stepped, or down when horizontal. Open the turnbuckles at ends of stays to half-open position. Then attach the Backstay to the stern chainplate, with clevis pin and cotter ring and proceed to attach Sidestays, both uppers and lowers, to the side chainplates. The lower Sidestays that run up to the spreader bases are attached to the fore side chainplates, while the upper Sidestays running from the top of the mast are attached to the aft side chainplates. (See Fig. 4) Do not attach the Headstay to the bow fitting yet. A tabernacle is provided on the cabin top of the O’DAY 22 for ease in mast stepping. With the mast in a horizontal position and with sliding hatch closed, insert base of mast with pin in tabernacle (Aluminum cast tabernacle) or insert aft pin into tabernacle (Stainless-Steel hinge-plate tabernacle). Next push up and forward on the mast until the mast is in a vertical position, it helps if one person pushes the mast up while a second assists by standing on the foredeck and pulling in the forestay. Now with one person holding the mast vertical, the other can attach the forestay to the stem fitting near the bow (use forward hole) with a clevis pin and cotter ring. (See Fig. 3) If your boat has the stainless-steel hinge-plate tabernacle, insert forward pin into tabernacle now. After all stays are securely attached, take the slack out of the rigging and tighten. With the mast plumb (in a vertical position), the Headstay, Backstay, the two upper Sidestays, should he tightened 3-5 turns more than hand tight. The two lower Sidestays should be just taut, not hand tight.
CAUTION: It is very important that you do not tighten the stays too much, as this can cause damage to the hull and deck. Also, periodically you should inspect the chainplates for corrosion and the deck area around them for rotted core.
After the stays have been adjusted, take a pair of pliers (even better, use a wrench), tighten the lock nuts on the turnbuckles which will prevent the turnbuckles from unwinding. To be on the safe side, we strongly recommend that you wire and tape the turnbuckles so they will not unwind.
Normally, on a trailered boat, only the forestay needs to be unhooked to lower the mast; thus the other standing rigging can be left adjusted for the season. The forestay will need to be loosened each time to unstep the mast, then retighten after stepping the mast.
Attaching Boom to Mast
Slip the gooseneck, which is on the forward end of the boom, on to the track on the mast (See Fig.2). To hold up the after end of the boom, attach the Boom Hanger (short wire on Backstay) to aft end of the boom.
Mainsheet
Old style (1972-74): Tie or shackle the end of the mainsheet to the becket on the top of mainsheet block (near stern). Thread the other end through one sheave of the double block on the end of the boom, then through the block near the stern on the other side, then through the other sheave of the block on the boom, then through the first block and the attached camcleat. Tie a figure-8 stopper-knot in the free end of the sheet.
Newer style (1975-83): Take the free end of the mainsheet, thread it through the upper sheave on the block attached to the triangle plate on the Backstay, and bring it up through the block on the boom, then back down to the bottom sheave and through the camcleat. This type of mainsheet arrangement frees up the cockpit considerably. Tie a figure-8 knot in the end of the mainsheet so you won’t lose it.
(See Fig. 7)
For Boom Vang Instructions (Fig. 10): See Glossary
To Attach Rudder:
On the stern of the boat are two gudgeons into which are inserted the pintles on the rudder. Note that on the front of the rudder head between the pintles there is a rudder stop, which prevents the rudder from accidentally coming loose. The top of the rudder stop with the rudder in place should rest under the top gudgeon. If adjustment is necessary, remove the stop and bend so that it will bear against pintle. (See Fig. 6)
CENTERBOARD (1979-83):
The fiberglass centerboard is held in the centerboard trunk by a pair of wedges secured by stainless-steel retaining plates that hold the pivot pin in place and are inserted from the bottom of the keel. (
See diagram in back of manual). Should the centerboard need to be removed for replacement, repair, and painting or for pendant renewal, the wedges are easily removed by unscrewing the fasteners that secure the retaining plates in place on the bottom of the keel. In the forward end of the cockpit there is a centerboard pendant and cleat. To secure the centerboard pendant, simply wrap it around the cleat. Watch the pendant for wear and replace when necessary.
WARNING: the rudder extends deeper than the keel when the CB is raised!
To Hoist or Raise Mainsail
To raise the mainsail insert battens and then starting near the gooseneck, feed the foot of the sail, clew first, into the slot on the boom. The pin in the gooseneck slips through the tack of the sail to hold it in place. Draw the foot of the sail out along the boom until the foot is tight. The Outhaul line should be attached to the clew of the sail, then passed through the hole in fitting on end of boom, then cleated on boom cleat which is located approximately 2/3's of the way up on the starboard side of the boom. The cleat is located here to permit the crew to change the tension on the foot of the sail while sailing. A "Block-Action Outhaul” is a help here as it greatly reduces the friction on the Outhaul line. Next, fasten the main halyard to the head of the mainsail and feed the luff slugs of the sail into the mast slot cutout. Hoist the sail fully and cleat it. Located in the sail feed slot in the mast is a cotter pin on a short length of line. This is inserted through holes drilled in mast groove above the sail-feed slot and will prevent luff slugs from falling out when sail is lowered. (See Fig. 8)
Downhaul
Tighten the luff of the sail by pulling down on the line attached to the gooseneck, and then cleat it to the Downhaul cleat. The position of this cleat on the mast may be changed by loosening the two screws, moving cleat, and then tightening screws again. (See Fig. 2)
To Hoist Jib:
Fasten all the snaps on the luff of the jib to the Headstay and attach the shackle on the on the tack to the stemhead fitting. (See Fig. 9) The jib halyard is then attached to the head of jib. Tie the center of jib sheet to the clew of jib (See Fig. 5) and then run each jib-sheet outside of the Sidestays, and then through the block mounted on deck, approximately three feet aft of the chainplate, then to the jibsheet cleat provided. (See Main drawing) Tie a figure eight knot in each end of the jibsheet so as not to lose it. The jib is now ready to hoist
Roller Reefing:
Your Mainsail can be easily reefed, as the boat is equipped with a spring-loaded gooseneck. First, detach the Boom-Vang pendant from the boom. Second, release the main halyard, but keep it under tension. Third, pull the boom back from the mast so that you can turn it. Forth, roll the boom either way as you or your crew lets off slowly on the halyard. The sail will roll on the boom. Fifth, when you have rolled about 5-6 times, you will have reduced your sail area by 1/3. Experience will teach you how much to reef under various conditions. Sixth, lock your boom back in place by letting the boom go forward and tighten up the halyard. To shake out the reef, just reverse the procedure.
Outboard Motor:
We recommend a maximum of 15 horsepower (most owners use a 4-6 hp) with a long shaft. The outboard motor is attached to the outboard motor bracket. (
Added warning from a former O’Day V.P.
OD- 22 Outboard brackets - Caution when exceeding 6hp. Some of the early brackets were made by Schaefer Marine, and broke at the weld joint. They were black anodized aluminum tube slid inside another transom tube.)
CAUTION: Be careful when turning the rudder blade as it can come in contact with the propeller.
Trailer:
If you intend to trailer your O’Day 22, you will need a trailer that will support the complete boat’s weight plus 20%, which will cover weight of normal gear. A custom O’Day trailer may be purchased from your local Dealer. It is a good idea to pad all areas of the mast that come in contact with the boat and trailer. All halyards and stays should be securely fastened to the mast while trailering. Also be sure that the boat is securely fastened to the trailer itself. The majority of hull weight should be on the keel support bed of the trailer. Do not have excessive weight on the two side supports (bunks), for ease in hauling and launching, and for proper weight distribution on the hull.
When launching your O’Day 22, you will have to back the trailer into the water and float the boat off. This can easily be done with any average-sloped launching ramp. In Salt-water, be sure to wash the trailer down immediately to minimize corrosion. If your trailer is equipped with “Bearing Buddies”, be sure to check for sufficient grease.
NOTE: Trailers rated for gross loads of 2,000# or more (Class 2) require a 2-inch trailer ball.
Flotation:
There is sufficient Flotation material (in block form) located in the boat to support the crew and normal gear, should the hull take on water through a leak or hull puncture. Be sure to check these areas prior to sailing and pump out any water.
Sink Drain:
Be sure to check all connections for water tightness. If boat has been equipped with a valve or seacock on the sink drain, it should be closed when sink is not in use to prevent flooding if hose comes loose.
Bilge Drain Plug:
The plastic plug in the cabin floor located over the aft end of the keel is provided so that any water in the hull can be pumped out. Be sure to check this area prior to sailing.
Ballast:
The O’Day 22 has 600 lbs. (1972-78) of lead ballast glassed into the keel, which is more than adequate; however, you can add more, if you prefer more stability. The easiest way to add is to pour lead shot (available at any good sporting goods store) into the keel area through the bilge drain plug. You may even mix with catalyzed resin for a more permanent job, but be sure area is dry. We have customers who have added 200 lbs. In this manner, but be sure to increase positive flotation at the same time in order to support the extra weight, should the hull take on water through a leak or hull puncture.
(Ballast was 700 lbs. for 1979, 800 lbs. for 1980-83.)
General Information
The following information is to be used as a general guide, and if you are not sure or need more help, do not hesitate to call upon your dealer or us. (Call D & R Marine, (508) 644-3001)
Tuning: Do not overtighten stays, as mainsheet tension will dictate tension on Headstay. While sailing, the leeward stays will always go slack due to mast bend, stretching etc., so under no circumstances should you tighten them under sail. All adjustments should be made while at rest with the sails down.
Maintenance
Fiberglass Repairs: Although fiberglass is a relatively simple material to work with, we urge that you familiarize yourself with the proper procedures in order to insure good results.
The surface color (gelcoat) should be cleaned and waxed at least twice a year in order to maintain its luster. The color may fade due to weathering and if ordinary cleaning will not bring the color back, try a regular automotive compound followed by waxing.
Sails: Dry and fold carefully after each use and if used on salt-water, wash with fresh water every so often. Fold by stretching out the sail on the lawn or clean surface (not concrete) and starting at foot with person at clew and tack, make one foot to two folds by bringing the head down towards you gradually and evenly. Finally, fold from clew to tack or vice versa.
Woodwork: Varnish at least once a year, using any good marine varnish. Teak can be either oiled or varnished. Teak should be oiled at least twice a year to prevent splitting.
Bottom Paint: Recommended in both fresh and salt water. Follow directions on can carefully. Be sure to paint keel and/or centerboard as well as bottom. (CB was only on 1979 and later models)
Leaking: Should any leaks develop through hardware fastenings, hull and deck joints, etc., these can easily be fixed by applying a good marine sealant.
Trailer: Normally any good marine boat trailer is sufficient that will support the complete boat’s weight plus say 20 percent which will cover weight of normal gear. A “Trailing Package” is a great help as it keeps mast and boom off the boat and makes tying down easier.
For The Racer:
The rake of the mast can be changed by adjusting the Headstay turnbuckle and then re-adjusting the Sidestays. In general, a boat will perform better while sailing to windward with some aft rake and better downwind with the mast plumb or slightly raked forward. Races are usually won to weather, so favor more aft rake, if anything.
Sail Set
The jib halyard should be taken up so that the tension on the luff, while under sail, is the same as on the Headstay. The tension on the foot and luff of the mainsail should be such that there are no stress lines or wrinkles in the sail. Apply more tension as the wind increases, which will move the draft forward and decrease heeling moment, etc. In general, the Outhaul should be slackened while sailing off the wind in order to create more draft in the sail.
Tell Tales are an invaluable aid in determining wind direction – 8-inch pieces of yarn tied to Sidestays 2 ft. to 4 ft. up from chainplate, and a wind pennant on top of mast.
6 to 8 inch pieces of yarn taped to luff of jib on both sides every 3 feet or so on bottom half of sail 8 inches back from luff wire are excellent wind-flow guides. If you point too high, weather yarn flutters, and if pointing too low, leeward yarn flutters. Both should flow back evenly – remember this only tells you flow pattern for given jib trim, so trim must be correct for sailing angle.
GLOSSARY
AFT: In the neighborhood or direction of the stern.
BATTEN: A thin wooden or plastic strip placed in a pocket in the leech of a sail to help hold its form.
BLOCK: Pulley consisting of a frame in which is set one or more sheaves or rollers. Ropes are run over these rollers.
BOOM: Spar at the foot of the mainsail.
BOOM VANG: The wire pendant attached to one of the boom vang blocks slides into a plate secured to the bottom of the boom about 3' aft of the gooseneck. The other block attaches to an eye at the base of the mast. See Fig. 3 and main photo. The vang's purpose is to keep the boom steady and horizontal while sailing.
BOW: The forward part of a boat.
CENTERBOARD: A keel-like device that can be hoisted or lowered in a trunk, acts to prevent leeway and improve direction control in shoal draft boats.
CENTERBOARD PENDANT: Line used to raise and lower centerboard.
CHAINPLATES: Strips of metal fastened to the boat's hull near the deck line to take the stress of stays.
CLEAT: A fitting to which ropes are made fast.
CLEVIS PIN: A small stainless pin that has a hole in one end for a cotter pin and is used to secure stays to chainplates and mast fittings.
CLEW: The aftermost lower corner of a sail.
COCKPIT: The open area lower than a boat's deck where the occupants sit.
COTTER PIN: A straight or circular split metal pin used to hold a clevis pin in place.
DOWNHAUL: A device used to tighten the luff of a sail.
FAIRLEAD: An eye used to lead line in the direction desired.
FOOT: The lower edge of a sail.
GOOSENECK: A metal device that secures the boom to the mast.
GUDGEON: A metal socket attached to the transom to receive the pintle of the rudder.
GUNWALES: The upper edge of a boat's side, where it meets the deck.
HALYARD: A line for hoisting. (Or raising) the sails.
HEAD: The upper corner of a sail.
HEADBOARD: The fitting at the head of a sail with a hole in it to receive the main halyard.
HEADSTAY: The foremost stay on a sailboat. A jib is set on a Headstay,
HULL: Main body of the boat.
JIB: A triangular sail set forward of the mast.
JIB SNAPS: Small fittings that are attached to the luff of a jib which secure the jib to the Headstay.
(Also called Jib Hanks)
JIBE: The action of changing direction by turning the stern through the wind (watch out for the boom as the mainsail shifts from one side of the boat to the other, it may swing suddenly!). Also spelled: Gybe.
LEECH: The after edge of a sail.
LEEWARD: Away from the wind.
LINE: The common expression for a rope in use.
LUFF: The forward edge of a sail. Also term for a fluttering sail, i.e.: Luffing.
MAINSAIL: The principal sail on the mainmast.
MAINSHEET: The line used to trim a mainsail.
MAST: An aluminum tube designed to stand on end so as to support a boom plus one or more sails.
MASTHEAD: The top of the mast.
MASTHEAD FITTING: The fitting at the top of the mast.
MAST STEP: A metal fitting that holds the base of the mast in position.
OUTHAUL: A line used to haul the clew of a sail out to the end of the boom.
PINTLES: Pins on the forward side of a boat's rudder designed to rest in and pivot on the gudgeons secured to the transom.
PORT: The left side of the vessel facing forward.
REEFING: to reduce a sail by rolling or folding up part of it.
RIGGING: The wire supporting the spares is called standing rigging (stays or shrouds) and the ropes used in setting and trimming sails are known as running rigging (halyards and sheets).
RUDDER: A vertical plate attached to the stern of a boat used in steering it.
SELF-RIGHTING: A feature, which enables the keel ballast to right a boat that has capsized, should almost prevent a capsize from happening.
SHACKLE: A piece of metal with a pin across the open ends.
SHEET: A rope used to trim the sail.
SHROUD: Same as a stay.
SLACK: The opposite of taut. Slack away or off, to pay out.
SLOOP: A vessel with one mast and two or more sails.
SPAR: A mast, a boom, etc.
SPREADERS: Aluminum tubes that project from a mast, in a traverse direction in order to keep a stay at proper tension and to help hold the mast erect.
STARBOARD: The right side of a boat, facing forward.
STAY: A length of wire used to support a spar.
STEMHEAD FITTING: The fitting nearest the bow on the deck, where the Headstay attaches.
STEP: To step a mast is to set it in position.
STERN: The after part of a boat.
TABERNACLE: A fitting designed so that the mast can be lowered when passing under obstructions; also facilitates stepping and unstepping the mast.
TACK: The lowest corner of a sail. Also a verb meaning to change direction by turning the bow through the wind, and the noun describing a course to either side of the wind direction.
TILLER: A piece of wood connected with the rudder head. By this the rudder is moved as desired.
TOPPING LIFT: A wire and/or rope with one end attached to the top of the mast, with the other end attached to the aft end of the boom. Its purpose is to hold the end or the boom up when the mainsail is lowered.
TRIM: To trim sails. To put them in correct relation to the wind, by means of sheets.
TURNBUCKLE: A device used to maintain correct tension on rigging.
WINDWARD: Toward the wind.
BOATING SAFETY ACT
A Federal Boating Safety Act was passed in 1971 to further encourage safety in boating. O'Day endorses the general nature of this Act and certifies that it reasonably complies with requirements of the Act. There are several specific aspects of the Act new customers should understand.
1. Every O'Day has a special numbering system. * Numbers are permanently molded into the transom on all models. The first three letters are our manufacturing serial number, the next letter represents the boat model code letter, the first four numbers are the sail or class number and the last, four digits represent the model year and the month the boat was built.
XDYJhhhhMyym XDY = O’DAY, J = 22, hhhh = hull/class #, M= model year format, yy = model year, m = month. Model Years ran from Aug. to July (ex: 1976 model year: Aug 75 to July 76)
*(Boats built prior to Oct. 31, 1972 will not have the Hull I.D. mentioned above, but instead have 2 numbers on a metal plate inside the boat (usually in the cockpit). There is a Hull# and a Class#, Hull number refers to total O’Day Sailboat production, Class number refers to O’Day 22 production. The Class number is the number that would be on the sail.
2. Customers are required to provide approved life saving devices for each crew on board.
3. Availability of approved fire Extinguishers is required on many boats. Customers should consider having an extinguisher even when not required.
4. Recommended horsepower for engines is included in O'Day's catalog and should be complied with for safety and warranty reasons.
5. After dark, boats must be lit in an approved fashion, if the optional O’Day-supplied lights are not fitted, customers must make provision for this. International NavLights were standard on the O’Day 22 in later years.
6. O'Day is obliged to inform customers of manufacturing defects, which may exist in specific boats. O'Day must describe the defect, evaluate the hazards involved, and state the action it is taking to eliminate the defect. Obviously O'Day cannot do this readily without record of each boat's owner, which is supplied by the return of the Warranty Card. The Company strongly urges this card be returned promptly.
O’DAY 22 Specifications:
LOA: 21’ 8”
LWL: 18’ 11”
Beam: 7’ 2”
Draft minimum: 1’ 11” (1972-78) 1’ 3” (1979-83)
Draft Maximum: 1’ 11” (1972-78) 4’ 3” (1979-83)
Sail Area: 190 sqft (1972-78) 198.3 sqft (1980-83)
Max. Recommended H.P. 15 (longshaft)
Mast Length: 22’ 9” (1972-79) 27’ 3” (1980-83)
Mast height (above waterline): 27’ 0” (1972-79) 31’ 0” (1980-83)
Boom Length: 8’ 6” (1972-79)
Boom Length: 9’ 2” (1980-83)
Displacement: 2083# (1972-78) 2183# (1979) 2283# (1980-83)
Ballast Material: Lead
Ballast weight: 600# (1972-78) 700# (1979) 800# (1980-83)
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| 1972-79 sailplan, keel shown is 1972-78 |
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GOOD INTERNET SITES TO CHECK OUT FOR O’DAY INFO.
1968 O’Day Brochure (shows DS I): http://www.geocities.com/odaybrochure/
D&R MARINE / O’DAY SAILBOATS: http://www.odaysailboats.com
O’Day Owners information and discussion: Resources for owners of Oday. Photos, downloads, owner modifications, accessories, boats for sale, and more.
O’DAY 22 RIGGING SPECS (1972-79)
(Taken from a 1979 O’DAY memo)
Running Rigging Specs.
All Lengths and specifications are approximate and are subject to change without notice
Main Halyard: 5/16” x 46’7”
Jib Halyard: 5/16” x 46’4”
Mainsheet: 5/16” x 41’ (1974-83)
Jib Sheet: 5/16” x 40’ (20’ each side)
Mainsail Outhaul: 3/16” x 8’
Boom Downhaul: 3/16” x 3’
Spinnaker Halyard: 1/4” x 53’
Spinnaker Pole Lift: ¼” x 27’
Spinnaker Pole Downhaul: ¼” x 21’
Spinnaker Sheets: ¼” x 37’ (2x)
Genoa Sheets: 3/8” x 43’ (21’6” each side)
All running rigging is typically double-braid Dacron (Polyester) rope
Standing Rigging Specs.
Headstay: (1972-79) 1/8” x 24’9 ½”
Upper Shroud: 1/8” x 23’6 ¾”
Lower Shrouds: 1/8” x 12’5 1/2”
Backstay: 1/8” x 26’1”
Backstay piece below mainsheet attachment triangle: 1/8” x ?
All Standing rigging is SS 1x19 type wire and lengths are with turnbuckle (where applicable) closed, from eye to eye (most riggers measure with turnbuckles half-closed, so be sure to note this and/or bring old rigging to rigger to measure for repla
