3qm dipstick

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Jul 7, 2009
252
Beneteau First 405 Myrtle Beach, S.C.
I have just started looking at my 3QM engine and checking the oil was my first job. I found the dipstick but how do you reach it?? Is is buried under the cooling water manifold and not reachable from the cabin. I crawled in the lazzarette and opened the access panel but could reach it either. I also need to know if draining the engine oil is a strait forward deal or is it one of those you suck up through the dipstick??

I am sure this subject has been discussed ad nauseam but I cannot find any reference to it using the search function. It just does not like me. I am sure the answer to my question is in the database. I just dont get along with the search function.

Thank you in advance
 
Jun 8, 2004
1,066
C&C Frigate 36 St. Margarets Bay, Nova Scotia
Its a stretch

Jose,
I don't think I have unusually long arms (I am 5' 9") and I can reach the dipstick by removing the top cover of the engine compartment (the part you step on coming into the cabin). I just lean over and extend my left arm way down and aft. You can't see what you are doing, so you need to learn to find the dipstick by feel. Don't try it when the engine is hot. Getting the dipstick out isn't too bad, but putting it back is tricky. I usually grasp the dipstick down near the 'measuring end' between my thumb and forefinger. Then I feel for the dipstick hole and thread it in.

Yes, oil changes involve pumping the old oil out through the dipstick hole. I think there is a threaded plug in the back of the oil pan, but I have never been able to remove it. In any case, there isn't enough room under the engine to place a pan of adequate capacity to catch all the oil (I think there is something like 7 qts in there!).

I don't remember ever seeing this question asked before...no such thing as a dumb question.
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
Aha, another unmodified 1979. And Jim, this is another difference we have missed. I am not sure what year it was added, but the '79 did not have the engine room access panel from the quarterberth.

Jose, later models of the H37C have a "door" from the quarterberth into the port side of the engine. This makes a huge difference in working with the oil dipstick, the tranny dipstick, the hot water heater, checking hoses, the muffler, etc. And it is almost impossible to work on the stuffing box without that opening.

On my boat I made it the same size as the new models. About halfway back on the inside bulkhead there is a vertical trim strip of teak(on my boat). When I removed that trim there was already a vertical cut, unattached from the rest of the bulkhead. The top of the bulkhead is simply jammed under the cockpit sole. All that I had to do was run a sabre saw along the bottom, guided by the fiberglass. You are also cutting the sound proofing as you go. Be sure to look inside before sawing to make sure there are no wires or hoses.

Now my access panel just wedges between the top and bottom fiberglass surfaces with screws through the trim strip on both ends.
 
Jun 8, 2004
1,066
C&C Frigate 36 St. Margarets Bay, Nova Scotia
Aha, another unmodified 1979. And Jim, this is another difference we have missed. I am not sure what year it was added, but the '79 did not have the engine room access panel from the quarterberth.
You are right Ed, another '79 difference but I don't use that access door in the q-berth to check the oil (unless we are talking the transmission!).

I remove the step or countertop piece immediately below the companionway and reach in there. How does everyone else access the dipstick?
 
Mar 30, 2009
63
Hunter Cherubini 37-cutter Bayfield, Lake Huron
I have an 83, with the 3QM30F, and like Jim I pull off the front and top access panels, turn on a light, then reach down on the left to check the oil. I also use one of those round 6 litre oil-changers. After you suck out the oil there is only a bit left in the oil filter.

Last year I hauled out late. Couldn't change the oil until the spring as it was too thick to suck out. This year I'm changing oil right before haulout.

Another note, if you have the F model 3QM, is to check for a coolant leak at the upper-back of the engine. I have a square plate there with a gasket that needs to be periodically changed. Not sure if this is normal, but thats what the PO told me, and after 2 years, its leaking again. (in the picture, the dirty-spot, square plate middle-right )
 

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Jun 21, 2007
2,117
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
I guess that you guys must find it a bit inconvenient to check the oil before every outing as is always recommended for safe boating!

(For what it's worth, getting to my dipstick is about a difficult, and takes about a much time, as for a car. Nonetheless, I check only every few times out. The engine doesn't lose oil level between changes. And if something goes wrong with the engine that might cause water intrusion into the oil or burning the oil, I expect that will happen under power, not while the engine is unused at the dock. So what am I expecting to find by doing it every time anyway?)
 

cat

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Jun 24, 2004
4
Hunter 37-cutter Ruskin, Florida
The heat exchanger on my 2qm20 was mounted on a bracket attached to the engine and right over the dipstick. I moved the heat exchanger to the port wall of the engine compartment and reattached with longer hoses so nothing is in the way of the dipstick.
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
Actually I don't use the q-berth access for oil check either. But once you have been in there a few times and get acclimated to where things are it makes it easier. I also go over the engine from the front. Or used to before the 3YM30.

I have also forgotten to change oil when the engine was warm. So I run it with the boat on the cradle. Raw water hose goes into a bucket and a hose keeps the bucket full. I suppose it depends where your boat is on the hard.
 
Jul 7, 2009
252
Beneteau First 405 Myrtle Beach, S.C.
Thank you all for your input. Lots of good ideas.

Jim. My heat exchanger is right above the stick and there is absolutly no room other than collapsing the foam insulation. And still my hand wont even fit. I guess the P O never checked the oil level.

I guess I will have to do what CAT did and move the heat exchanger to the other side, over the starter and generator. Got to move the expansion tank from there to another location. I noticed one of the exchanger hoses was pushing against the riser elbow and has a burn mark on the backside. Although the riser is well wrapped in fiberglass cloth, the hose is almost burned through.

Ed: I was doing research last week on the owners mods site and looked at your old engine swap pictures and found the location for the electrical panel hot wire - red- (starter) and ground -white- (back plate on engine). Made my re wiring job a breeze. Original wire was stiff and had lumps on it as if it had been very hot at one time. Replaced it with marine red and yellow 8 gauge wire instead of the 14 gauge that was there.

I followed your advise about making an access panel and ordered a 10x14 plastic access hatch. I will install it to gain access to the starter from the side cabin. I also liked your idea of modidiying the inside bulkhead like you did to gain access to the water heater and stuffing box. That's the last hole I have not worked on yet. After replacing all the bronze thru hulls and instruments thru hulls, it is my last major project.

I am also thinking of removing the Jabsco water cooling pump and check on the bearings. I dont want to have the same problem Mathurin had. I did find documents where the P.O. had replaced them about 200 hours ago, however, I rather check for myself.

And now for the electrical rat's nest behind the engine gauge panel.

And I press on regardless.

Cheers.
 
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