Can 3M 5200 be used as an adhesive much as you would use an epoxy? Can it be used with a thin glue line with some light clamp pressure like you get from attaching two panels together with drywall screws. I've looked at some posts that seem to suggest that you need a thicker glue line than you would need with epoxy. The use I have is in gluing a fiberglass panel to an interior fiberglass liner. I want it to be permanent. In this application I really don't need 5200's property that it is flexible and able to stretch under a sheer load.
3M 5200 as Adhesive
- Thread starter Ajay73
- Start date
- Status
5200 is a good adhesive but I think you would be better off with Plexus or west epoxy adhesive. 5200 has a long cure time like 7 days, you could use fast cure but I really think for this application there are better adhesives and yes it does work better with a bit of thickness to it.
I stay away from epoxy because I developed an allergy to it so I'm looking for alternatives. I know epoxy would be better but are there reasonable alternatives?
MS, it's for a port light frame that will be glued to the interior liner. About a 1 inch gluing surface all around the opening. I didn't think polyester really had any significant adhesive qualities.
5200 is a fast cure, and fully cures in less than 24 hours.
You be thinking about 4200
As far as flexing....I would think that is exactly what would be required around a port light
3M™ Marine Fast Cure 5200
Adhesive Sealant
This high-performance polyurethane becomes tack free in one hour and fully cures in approximately 24 hours. The adhesive sealant is extremely strong, retains its strength above or below water line. Stays flexible too - allows for structural movement. Has excellent resistance to weathering and salt water.
Adhesive Sealant
This high-performance polyurethane becomes tack free in one hour and fully cures in approximately 24 hours. The adhesive sealant is extremely strong, retains its strength above or below water line. Stays flexible too - allows for structural movement. Has excellent resistance to weathering and salt water.
Well, the frame and the opening it is glued to might have some flex as a unit. What I was refering to is that 5200 can "stretch" several hundred percent and still retain its bond. For example, if you bonded a winch to a deck (I know you wouldn't do this, but just for example purposes) and the winch flexed independent of the deck when sheer load was put on winch base joint. I probably should have said its "elongation" attribute rather than flexibility.
How about this stuff: http://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?13554
It's pre-thickened and the resin/catalyst mix happens in the nozzle so your exposure time would be minimized.
Be aware there isn't much in the tube.
It's pre-thickened and the resin/catalyst mix happens in the nozzle so your exposure time would be minimized.
Be aware there isn't much in the tube.
Yes, but this would be a secondary bond? I've read that that's the problem using polyester. But, having said that, most fiberglass shops when doing fiberglass boat repair work would use polyester if you didn't specify epoxy. Decisions, decisions.Your entire boat is built with it, I sure hope it has adhesive qualities...
and they would try to talk you out of the epoxy if you suggested it to them.... it glues very well to stuff, but stuff doesnt glue as well to it after it has cured out...
polyester should be the first consideration when needing that type of material for the project....
BUT... for your needs, if you use a solid, hardening adhesive like epoxy, the heating and cooling effects will soon separate the two different types of substrates...
if you are looking for a lifetime of watertight, a product like the 4200 or 5200 with its elastic properties will be a better choice . the 4200 fast cure UV would be MY personal choice....
Again your boat is built with TONS of secondary bonds. Once the hull is cured everything elses is then "tabbed in", every one a secondary bond.. Proper prep and practices and that piece will be as permanent as any "tabbed in bulkhead" on any boat....
What is the portlight frame material? I assume it is being glued to gelcoat? The materials present will help dictate what adhesive to use....
If the material is for a portlight, and likely exposed to UV (assuming it is some type of metal, not plastic), I would use 3M 4000UV for anything that is not structural as it is easier to remove later if necessary, and will not yellow in exposure to sunlight. For something like a portlight trim ring it should be strong enough.
- Status