37C Main Traveller

Bill Roosa · Jan 4, 2011

Mine had a 6:1 mainsheet with all the (3 each end) sheaves in 2 blocks. Had a weird double line pull for fast sheeting and single line for more power arangement also. As I recal there was only one line in the hole thing and the double pull was on a loop. For single you just pulled one side or the other. Worked well but filled the cockpit with line and no place to stow it.
We made our travler recircurulating instead of having two lines. This helped greatly with the tanglefoot.

Mark Price · Jan 4, 2011

Just finished this upgrade

Bill Roosa said:
Mine had a 6:1 mainsheet with all the (3 each end) sheaves in 2 blocks. Had a weird double line pull for fast sheeting and single line for more power arangement also. As I recal there was only one line in the hole thing and the double pull was on a loop. For single you just pulled one side or the other. Worked well but filled the cockpit with line and no place to stow it.
We made our travler recircurulating instead of having two lines. This helped greatly with the tanglefoot.

I used Harkin track car and control ends. High profile track does not have holes in the top of the track. They are captive and internal so less chance of leaks. Here is a picture.

Mark

Ed Schenck · Jan 5, 2011

Jim, moving back to the bridgedeck traveler from up top? That has to be a first. And we can assume you do not want to rig as original. That's where the mainsheet goes forward under the boom, down to a standing block, over through a cheek block, and back to the cabin top winch.

My traveler is original in the cockpit with the manual stops. All that I did was use Garhaurer fiddles for 4:1 with a cam cleat on the bottom to keep everything in the cockpit. For me Mark's setup would be ideal. I have not pursued that for reasons of money, laziness(removing the old one is going to be a challenge), and I don't trim(much). I do have a snap shackle on the bottom fiddle and move it to the toerail when lounging.

Mark Price · Jan 5, 2011

37C MainTraveller

Ed,

The nuts in the rear quarter bearth were easy to remove. The ones over the instruments I used one of those sonic vibration tools with a very thin blade to cut the bolts. Worked slick as could be. Also used the sonic tool to remove the teak board the old track was set on. Then I plugged the old holes with epoxy and gelcoated over the whole area and then drilled new holes to secure the new rail. It was really much easier than I expected. You are right it was not cheap but it has stopped the leaks (for now). Only wished the cleats could have faced toward the cockpit and not the companion way. Have not sailed with the new setup so not sure if the lines will be a pain or not.

Mark

Bill Roosa · Jan 5, 2011

Traveler lines

I took the traveler lines off, got one that was the sum of both of them and routed it the normal direction from the travler car to the exit into the cockpit and then into the exit on the other side and to the travler car again. That way when you pull on one side the other side sucks the line up and it only leaves you with a line running from exit to exit.

Mark Price · Jan 5, 2011

Bill, Do you have a cleat on only one to stop the line?

Mark

Blaise · Jan 5, 2011

Midnight Sun has a high beam Harken track with 4:1 traveler end cars. The mainsheet is a Harken 7:1. This was fine when I was younger but will change to a 10:1 soon.

sandpiper10471 · Jan 5, 2011

Blaise - 10:1 - that is a lot of spaghetti! Even 7:1 is huge. I am assuming your traveler is on the coach roof.
Mark - can you not end-for-end your traveler to face the cleats toward the cockpit? Or will that seal the locker lids shut?
Am I the only sailor using the original mainsheet system going length of boom, to deck, turning block and back to winch? I know it is a bit of friction but 4:1 cuts down on the amount of tangle in the pit and bracing for the winch is excellent. (FYI - I put a rubber donut on the winch to make it a self-tailer.)

Bill Roosa · Jan 6, 2011

@Mark Price
No you still need both cleats as there is some slack in the line between the two exits and I never figured out how to push rope. The lead would be very extreme without the slack. Even with a block to turn the line properly you would need both cleats unless you only sail on one tack. This arangement just gets the two traveler lines out of the way and keeps them that way but does not slow down triming.
@Blaise
dito sandpiper, 10:1 will fill the cockpit with line on a beat. I guarentee you will not be happy with that setup. which is probably why the PO moved it to the roof in the first place. Pretty sure the Admeral will be commenting about the "improved" access to the companionway also.

Mark Price · Jan 6, 2011

sandpiper10471 said:
Blaise - 10:1 - that is a lot of spaghetti! Even 7:1 is huge. I am assuming your traveler is on the coach roof.
Mark - can you not end-for-end your traveler to face the cleats toward the cockpit? Or will that seal the locker lids shut?
Am I the only sailor using the original mainsheet system going length of boom, to deck, turning block and back to winch? I know it is a bit of friction but 4:1 cuts down on the amount of tangle in the pit and bracing for the winch is excellent. (FYI - I put a rubber donut on the winch to make it a self-tailer.)

You must have a newer year as mine(80) was never on the coach roof and if I turn it to face the cockpit I lose acesss to both locker lids.

Bill did you splice two eye loops inplace to terminate the ends or did you tie loops at the ends?

Mark

Ed Schenck · Jan 6, 2011

Blaise, your Harken is in the cockpit, right? Would love to see pictures of that setup.

How much control would you lose with a short traveler? Maybe just between the locker covers. Then you wouldn't have the issue with the cleats overlapping the locker. That would give you about 12" past centerline for the main on a beat. Way more than I need with yankee cars on the toerail I think.

And Mark, you ran the saw blade between the teak and the beam from the outside to cut those bolts?

Mark Price · Jan 6, 2011

Ed, Yea I was replacing the track and the teak so no worry about damaging them. In the end I had to cut the teak in several spots to get it up as the blade would not reach all the way in from the front but for the bolts there was enough blade to reach them and the teak was softer than the track so no damage to the track. I used a SonicCrafter from HD and was sold on how well it worked. Only problem I see with the short traveler is getting to the bolts to tighten them as I only had to put bolts at the ends due to the strenght and the high profile was designed to span a long distance and not flex.

Mark

Ed Schenck · Jan 6, 2011

Pretty sure that you guys have talked me OUT of a new traveler. I have been moving the cars by hand for ten years without too much difficulty. Since I am not racing I just adjust for the next tack. If I do need a change on the same tack I head up to take the pressure off and move the car.

I forget what we found in the "H37C Evolution" but I think it was 1982 that the traveler was moved to the top. Or was it '83? For sure it was up there on 83s and later.

Blaise · Jan 8, 2011

Hi Guys,
First of all, my traveller is on the bridge deck. My Harken control ends face aft. I had to cut out the plates that the jam cleats sit on so I can push them forward to get the lazzerette hatches open. This has worked well for over thirty years. As far as there being a lot of spagetti in the cockpit, there is when close hauled, but it has never been unmanagable. With a 10:1 it maybe, but I am not as strong as I once was. The only downside seems to be when running in light air. The boom has to be pushed out manually. My mainsheet is 9/16ths, and it is a lot of line to go through 7 sheaves. And by the way there is no previous owner. I bought the boat new in November 1978.

emilbec · Jan 8, 2011

I got rid of the original traveler. Replaced the teak and put a Harkin windward sheeting traveler on the boat. Kept it in the same placed. I also removed the original mainsheet and replaced it with a Harkin 3:1 and 6:1 mainsheet. Gives me much better control of the main.

Ed Schenck · Jan 8, 2011

Ok Blaise, sell me. As I recall, since you sail as a sloop with a big genny, you have jib tracks. So you are sheeting much tighter than I ever could. For my cruising style what are the advantages of the easily adjustable traveler?

By the way I race on boats with adjustable travelers and there I appreciate the control. And why do you use such a heavy mainsheet?

emilbec · Jan 9, 2011

Curiously Blaise where did you put the jib tracks and how did you do?

Blaise · Jan 10, 2011

Ed,
I don't know that I could sell you on the new traveller, but the main advantage to me is instantly being able to depower the main in gusts without having to uncleat the mainsheet, ease it and then re-trim. For you guys still using the original mainsheet that is 4:1, and runs forward to the mast, then aft to a winch on the cabin, easing and trimming using a good traveller is much faster, easier, and sometimes safer. By the way, my jib tracks are right next to the cabin (about two inches) and six feet long. The genoa cars are controlled with 4;1 Garhaur cars. With a 135% jenny we tack through about 75 degrees and out point all the J's we race against up to the thiryfive. Ed, you also asked why such big line on the mainsheet. We us 9/16th because it is so easy on your hands when it is cold and wet.

37C Main Traveller

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