376 engine control panel - what were they thinking?

[robertsapp]

Just a quick note to see if anyone else has worked out a solution to this particular problem. I decided to install an engine hour meter on our 376. There was already a fuel guage mounted below the left side of the engine control panel, so I thought I'd balance it by putting the hour meter on the right side. I had to remove the panel to access the area. When I pulled it out, I found out that there was so little clearance between the panel and the steering cables that the cables were chafing against the engine panel wiring harness. I'm curious if anyone has had a problem with the cables sawing through the wiring harness insulation. I'd also appreciate any tips on how to keep the two separated if anyone else has fixed this issue.

 

[Ken13559]

Wow! Its a blessing that you decide to fit an Hour Meter and ended up discovering the chafing.

 

[wufibugs]

It is always helpful if folks include the year of their boat. At least in years past, Hunter wiring schemes and practices were not impressive. The H31 was wired with spade terminals, not eye, did not use shrink tube, and was, probably like many boats, underwired. There was minimal use of cable ties to keep wires from dangling where they should not, and not always careful thought to routing. I'm sure things have gotten much better since 1986.

 

[Steve Dion]

It is probably a little difficult to blame Hunter for something after 20 years. Who knows who has been into the pedestal messing around.

That aside you can use some of the wire protection products like found here.

http://www.delcity.net/store/Loom-&-Loom-Clamps/

 

[robertsapp]

It is probably a little difficult to blame Hunter for something after 20 years. Who knows who has been into the pedestal messing around.

That aside you can use some of the wire protection products like found here.

http://www.delcity.net/store/Loom-&-Loom-Clamps/

No one re-located the 376 engine control panel to a position less than an inch and a half in front of the steering cables. It was built that way and that was a design problem. I think Hunter realized they'd made a mess of it because in the follow-on model, the 380, they changed to a different yanmar panel design that fits offset to the right of the cables. I haven't had a chance to go hunting for a solution yet, but I'm hoping I'll find some sort of thin polyethylene box similar to the ones that are used behind breaker panels that will keep the wires and steering cables in their respective places. Or I might end up having to cruise the tupperware aisle at WalMart to find a close fit that I can butcher to make something that might work. Thanks for the link, I'll add it to my repair parts file.

 

[robertsapp]

It is always helpful if folks include the year of their boat. At least in years past, Hunter wiring schemes and practices were not impressive. The H31 was wired with spade terminals, not eye, did not use shrink tube, and was, probably like many boats, underwired. There was minimal use of cable ties to keep wires from dangling where they should not, and not always careful thought to routing. I'm sure things have gotten much better since 1986.

The generally poor quality of the mid-80's Hunters that were built after Warren Luhrs left the company are what destroyed Hunter's reputation. After he came back and took over again, things quickly got back on track with the new models in the early 90's. Unfortunately, Hunter's reputation has still not fully recovered.

 

[wufibugs]

Robert, what about adding a 3/4" or 1" white starboard "picture" frame under the perimeter of the panel facia to give you a little more room in the pedestal? Looks like you have some distance between the panel and wheel to work with.

 

[robertsapp]

Robert, what about adding a 3/4" or 1" white starboard "picture" frame under the perimeter of the panel facia to give you a little more room in the pedestal? Looks like you have some distance between the panel and wheel to work with.

Hmmm. Maybe, I'll have to think about it. Thanks!

 

[Chief RA]

I think you already hit the solution. Just cut a plastic container until it can be placed between for separation. Keep it simple but effective. There is no excuse for such incompetence! Chief

 

[kloudie1]

Sounds like if the cables are hitting the wires now, a guard will definitely be in constant contact with the cables.. I like wifibug's solution of putting a 1" or 3/4" spacer under the panel to generate more room behind the panel .. wires clear and all is right with the world..