Flexible Furler has become extremely difficult to furl and unfurl. Lubricated with white lithuim spray. Ok for a while but getting progressively worse. Suggestions other than a new furler? Jim
272 furler issue
- Thread starter jiml
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- 272 flexible furler furler
Disassembly and inspection? You can take a quick look at the turnbuckle inside the drum without taking down the mast.
What part did you spray with grease?
What part did you spray with grease?
Justsomeguy
Sprayed litium grease into holes into the drum using tube nossle that came with the can.
Sprayed litium grease into holes into the drum using tube nossle that came with the can.
Can you slide the drum up in the cup and look for the bearing under the drum? Which model do you have? You can see the owners manual online, and see where the bearing or bearings sit beneath the drum. You might have a problem there.
In the non ball bearing model, there is a washer bearing under the drum in the cup. If that is worn, the drum will sit lower and rub on the cup. If it is fouled with dirt, simply rinse it and lube it.
Be careful lifting the drum above the cup! Try not to get your fingers between the drum and the edge of the cup. There is an amputation risk!
Maybe use a pair of vice grips and a rag on the forestay to hold the cup above the drum while you inspect the bearing. Use the rag to keep from damaging your forestay. It worked for me.
Also, check the turnbuckle and mast head toggle. Be sure the turnbuckle is not bent, and be sure you have a mast head toggle, and it is not bent, or the forestay is not bent.
Be careful lifting the drum above the cup! Try not to get your fingers between the drum and the edge of the cup. There is an amputation risk!
Maybe use a pair of vice grips and a rag on the forestay to hold the cup above the drum while you inspect the bearing. Use the rag to keep from damaging your forestay. It worked for me.
Also, check the turnbuckle and mast head toggle. Be sure the turnbuckle is not bent, and be sure you have a mast head toggle, and it is not bent, or the forestay is not bent.
My 272 LE did not come with the flexible furler....Mine came with the model 2 or 3 ..by cruising design so I've had no experience with the flexible furler ...did sail a Starwind 23 that was equipped with a flexible furler....
There are so many furlers. At least they use similar design functions.
Here is a clip from the Flex-Furler manual
Here is a clip from the Flex-Furler manual
MAINTENANCE & STORAGE
The Flexible Furler is a set-it-and-forget-it furling and reefing system. No routine maintenance is required, but an occasional rinsing with fresh water is a good idea. We do not recommend the use of wet lubricants (grease) as such lubricants can trap wear causing dirt particles in the bearing area. Dry lubricants (teflon sprays, etc) are fine to make furling easier. When storing for prolonged periods, it is best to strap the furler along the mast, supporting the furler to avoid any potential sagging at the ends as well as in the middle. Do not allow it to drape over the spreaders or any other fitting as the plastic will creep and the luff will kink. Luffs must be stored flat and straight, or warranty is void. Do not expose the furler to temperatures above 140 degrees F.
Such temperatures may frequently occur in warm climates under a boat cover. The higher the temperature, the faster a bend becomes permanent. To clean the luff, use a rag soaked in paint thinner. For deep scratches and ground in dirt, rub with a rag soaked in acetone. Acetone actually dissolves the luff so even deep scratches can be removed.
BALL BEARING MAINTENANCE (IF INSTALLED)
The ball bearing should be rinsed occasionally with freshwater. If the bearing is hard to turn, disassemble for a more thorough cleaning. To do so:
1. Secure the mast so that the headstay may be released.
2. Remove the bearing assembly from the head-stay.
3. Hold the bearing over a box so that when the balls fall out, which they inevitably will, they won’t roll into oblivion.
4. Note there are two styles of ball bearing units. Pre-mid 2016 units have two dimples on the outer cover. For these units, grasp the outer cover with your thumb and a finger each at 90 degrees from the dimples. Squeeze. The dimples will clear the inner groove, the cover will slide off, and the balls will fall out. Post-mid 2016, the outer race is retained by a snap 15 ring. Use snap ring pliers to open the ring and remove. Be careful not to over stretch.
5. Clean all the balls and the race. Fresh water is normally sufficient, although grease must also be removed if present.
6. Reassemble the bearing, cup and antirotation strap.
The Flexible Furler is a set-it-and-forget-it furling and reefing system. No routine maintenance is required, but an occasional rinsing with fresh water is a good idea. We do not recommend the use of wet lubricants (grease) as such lubricants can trap wear causing dirt particles in the bearing area. Dry lubricants (teflon sprays, etc) are fine to make furling easier. When storing for prolonged periods, it is best to strap the furler along the mast, supporting the furler to avoid any potential sagging at the ends as well as in the middle. Do not allow it to drape over the spreaders or any other fitting as the plastic will creep and the luff will kink. Luffs must be stored flat and straight, or warranty is void. Do not expose the furler to temperatures above 140 degrees F.
Such temperatures may frequently occur in warm climates under a boat cover. The higher the temperature, the faster a bend becomes permanent. To clean the luff, use a rag soaked in paint thinner. For deep scratches and ground in dirt, rub with a rag soaked in acetone. Acetone actually dissolves the luff so even deep scratches can be removed.
BALL BEARING MAINTENANCE (IF INSTALLED)
The ball bearing should be rinsed occasionally with freshwater. If the bearing is hard to turn, disassemble for a more thorough cleaning. To do so:
1. Secure the mast so that the headstay may be released.
2. Remove the bearing assembly from the head-stay.
3. Hold the bearing over a box so that when the balls fall out, which they inevitably will, they won’t roll into oblivion.
4. Note there are two styles of ball bearing units. Pre-mid 2016 units have two dimples on the outer cover. For these units, grasp the outer cover with your thumb and a finger each at 90 degrees from the dimples. Squeeze. The dimples will clear the inner groove, the cover will slide off, and the balls will fall out. Post-mid 2016, the outer race is retained by a snap 15 ring. Use snap ring pliers to open the ring and remove. Be careful not to over stretch.
5. Clean all the balls and the race. Fresh water is normally sufficient, although grease must also be removed if present.
6. Reassemble the bearing, cup and antirotation strap.