26S cockpit drain filter??

[MrBill_FLL]

I had read you don't want to use ALL pvc on a boat, since it likes to flex and expand. If you like Dougs design, I would suggest putting in some hose somewhere in the system to allow for expansion.

-you sure don't want that to crack.


this is my setup, FWIW.

 

[Doug J]

I had read you don't want to use ALL pvc on a boat, since it likes to flex and expand. If you like Dougs design, I would suggest putting in some hose somewhere in the system to allow for expansion.

I've heard that suggestion made a few times. I can easily add some hose. I made it with threaded connectors in a couple places. I suppose I will do that just to be safe. Is the danger that the PVC can crack?

 

[MrBill_FLL]

that's what I read... the joints don't flex and can crack.. some article on sailnet, casey, nigel... forget now.

personally, I'd cut your longest pieces and add some hose there. that should be enough to give a little flex...

here's a sink

if you immerse that hose is very hot water for 10 min its pretty workable

 

[Doug J]

that's what I read... the joints don't flex and can crack.. some article on sailnet, casey, nigel... forget now.

personally, I'd cut your longest pieces and add some hose there. that should be enough to give a little flex...

here's a sink

if you immerse that hose is very hot water for 10 min its pretty workable

I will modify my lazarrette setup! Better to be safe than sorry! I did the drain under my sink with rubber hose similar to what you did, but I I think I'll need to add an elbow at the sink connection, the bend is too much, kinked the hose.

 

[Kestle]

I'd use two hose clamps on each side of the joint, each opposing the other, as is suggested for thru-hulls.

Jeff R.

 

[Sumner]

I'd use two hose clamps on each side of the joint, each opposing the other, as is suggested for thru-hulls.

Jeff R.

I agree that is the best way and what I also use for the centerboard fitting under the sink.

Two other suggestions. One is that if you use two 45 deg fittings instead of one 90 you will have a more sweeping bend and it will fit in just as tight. They also have 90's that aren't as tight of a bend.

Another thing I'd do if I could at a bend is possible use a ...

...fitting like on the left above with a 45 to get the 90 and then put a screw in plug on the top end of the fitting instead of using the 90 to the right. The screw in plug could be taken out and a clean-out rod run down the line. You couldn't do this in a corner, but you could on some of the other outside 90 degree locations.

It is all probably overkill, but wouldn't take much time and the fittings don't cost much. I also like Bill's suggestion about some hose for a flex.

When I put the....

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-36.html

...fuel tank and floor in the laz I was going to do something with the stock drain lines, but pretty much left them alone as I can't get over to use that area much anyway.

Sum

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[finding41]

Doug what did you paint under your sink with? I mean type of paint. I'm planning a paint job of all my bilge areas. I kind of want the product to stick.

 

[Doug J]

Doug what did you paint under your sink with? I mean type of paint. I'm planning a paint job of all my bilge areas. I kind of want the product to stick.

Rust-Oleum Marine Topside, it's an oil modified alkyd enamel for use above the waterline. Seems like good stuff, about half the price of something comparable from West Marine. I cleaned the surface real good with Acetone before applying the paint. The fumes are strong, need good ventilation.

 

[Sumner]

Rust-Oleum Marine Topside, it's an oil modified alkyd enamel for use above the waterline. Seems like good stuff, about half the price of something comparable from West Marine. I cleaned the surface real good with Acetone before applying the paint. The fumes are strong, need good ventilation.

Yep that really looks nice,

Sum

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[finding41]

Looks like I'm going to try regular Rust-Oleum Alkid with Japan Dryer (the secret ingredient)
I have some more cleaning and sanding and patching to do yet. Found some interesting holes and patches under the V berth today...Ill get something up on youtube tonight.
Here is a picture for now...

 

[finding41]

So I found that when I lifted off a loose patch of fiberglass. (Funny... it was actualy 3 layers from large to smaller)
No preparation was done before it was applied..
What the lighter colur is is any ones guess. It looks like there was a 1/4" hole drilled and someone used a jigsaw to cut that shape out. And then.....? Almost looks as if there are two screws holding something in.. The knife is stuck about 1" in to the slot that the jigsaw cut...? Then there's the 3 nuts on bolts sticking up... just rusting they are.....
I cant see any repairs from the outside..
Hmm
Any ideas anyone?
I'm thinking sand and put another patch on it.

 

[Doug J]

So I found that when I lifted off a loose patch of fiberglass. (Funny... it was actualy 3 layers from large to smaller)
No preparation was done before it was applied..
What the lighter colur is is any ones guess. It looks like there was a 1/4" hole drilled and someone used a jigsaw to cut that shape out. And then.....? Almost looks as if there are two screws holding something in.. The knife is stuck about 1" in to the slot that the jigsaw cut...? Then there's the 3 nuts on bolts sticking up... just rusting they are.....
I cant see any repairs from the outside..
Hmm
Any ideas anyone?
I'm thinking sand and put another patch on it.

Is that going into the ballast tank, which may explain why you don't see anything on the outside of the hull?

 

[finding41]

Yea. Sorry, don't mean to hijack the thread. I've started a new one about the thing in my V berth.

 

[MrBill_FLL]

I'd bet that is a factory fix... to some production problem... their glass work is hit or miss... (IMHO)