2 clevis pins overboard...there's got to be something easier

[Justin_NSA]

It took me a while to clear the cobwebs. i was trying to recall a device that was covered in Practical Sailor. It was back in a 2005 edition. It is called a Wrap Pin. I hope the link works.

Based in East Haddam, CT, the company trademarked the name—"Wrap Pins." Using high-strength glue, cotter pins are perpendicularly attached to a strip of heavy-duty Velcro. To use, insert the cotters (there’s no need to flare the legs) and wrap the Velcro round-and-round. The Wrap Pins are handiest for turnbuckles secured with pins in each of the threaded segments. But they can be used in other ways on shackles; if it's something critical, the cotter still should be flared first.

The picture shows how the pin on the right is used on different turnbuckles

 

[Hollyweirdos]

Re: 2 clevis pins overboard...there's got to be something ea

That looks like its worth a try. Heres the west marine link. CS johnson makes them. $8 for 2.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...toreNum=10102&subdeptNum=10161&classNum=10171

 

[Chris & Lenore]

For the price of regular pins and circular fitters why not just keep a few extra on board? I've seen what quick release pins are capable of first hand (no thanks!!!!).

Chris

 

[oreana123]

And again with the quick release pins. On my D, I have nothing but quick release pins and snap shackles. Never a problem. All of my pip pins have 1/16 inch SS cables so they can't go swimming. Every pip pin is immovable when rig tension gets on it. WTF?

 

[caguy]

Re: 2 clevis pins overboard...there's got to be something ea

I use push pins that the PO lanyard on for just about everything. This one was used to pin the goose neck. You can just see the thin nylon lanyard. He drilled about a 1/16 hole through the skirt of the pin.
West marine has them for under $7 the way they are made the ball cannot retract on its own the pin must be pushed in so the ball can drop into a notch and the pin cannot be extracted accidentally.
On the other hand the fast pins have a spring behind the ball that will allow the ball to collapse and the pin can be yanked out. They have their purpose but not around rigging.

I have also found that frequently the clevis rings get snagged by the sheets and yanked out. I use them but no where near the sheets. On the shrouds I use cotter pins.

 

[oreana123]

If you are thinking about using pip pins or quik pins or whatever they are called, there usually have a tether hole or a ring to attach a tether to....

It is important to use the pins in a shear loading. It is also important to create the proper sized hole for the pin to engage. On my sailboat, I undersize the holes I drill for pin installation, and then ream the final cut to as exact a clearance hole as possible.

Pip pins come in a few material types and many diameters and lengths.

I honestly believe that a spring loaded ball type of pip pin in a correctly sized hole is not going to come out of its place, even if the sheet snags it!

The other side of having these kind of quick connect devices (pins, snap shackles) is that set up and take down is very fast. This is important at the end of the day when you are tired.

I oversized my main pin, the one at the mast base, to 1/2 inch diameter by 6 inch long pip pin. I opened up and reamed the brackets on the bow rail as well. I have two pip pins in SS tethered to the tabernacle and the bow light bracket. Backstay and forestay, mast base, sliding gooseneck to boom and slug stop. All pip pins. Years of sailing.......

 

[Robeon]

I have used a push pin that came with my boat for 5 years without a problem. The tension on the forestay keeps it from moving. With all rigging, it requires routine inspection. I have the round rings come off the shrould pins. Luckly, I have not have a major failure to cause a demasting.