1983 Hunter 34 rear water tank

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wkuzon

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Aug 27, 2012
4
Hunter 34 Sandusky, Ohio
I am the relatively new owner of a 1983 Hunter 34. I would like to get to the rear water tank to change the fill and vent hoses, to check for leaks at the connections, and possibly to paint it to prevent light from getting to it. I see from other posts that the water fill is variously located on the 34 - the water-fill fitting on my 34 is under the flip-up step at the stern. The stern compartment under the helmsman seat seems fully sealed and the panels at the rear of the port quarter berth don't seem to come off simply by removing the screws. At 6'4" and about 220, I'm too big to climb down into the space under the starboard settee - I don't want to get stuck!. It doesn't look like there's access there anyway.

??? Can anyone help me? How do I get to the rear water tank?
 
Nov 6, 2006
10,098
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Rear water Tank, H-34

Welcome to the gang of 34 folks, wkuzon.
The tank is immediately behind the port-most panel at the aft end of the aft bunk. I have attached a couple of shots; you can see that the cover over the steering gear has to come off then the panel. You can see the top of the poly tank just aft of the rudder post, in the gap normally hidden by the cover.
While you are playing with the aft tank, best to rebuild/replace the tank selector valve if it hasn't been done yet.

EDIT.. Here is a shot from Claude Auger showing the tank with the cover removed.. I think his 34 has the fill in the bottom of the lazarette, so I don't know if the hoses are correct for your boat..
 

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wkuzon

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Aug 27, 2012
4
Hunter 34 Sandusky, Ohio
Claude - Thanks so much. The photos are really helpful. I'll have another go the next time I have a chance to get tot the boat and let you know how I do. Much appreciated. Bill.
 
Apr 8, 2010
2,125
Ericson Yachts Olson 34 28400 Portland OR
One caveat: when you start working around any of the interior frp moldings on your Hunter, wear long sleeves and gloves and keep some sheets of 80 grit and several round files and rasps handy. The factory built 'em out lickety-prindle in the 80's and left very (!) sharp cut-outs *everywhere* they had used a hole saw, saber saw, etc.

I helped a friend do some work under the cockpit of his H-31 and we had to do a lot of extra work rounding off sharp edges that were abraiding the old hoses we were replacing. We were both wearing several band-aids per hand at the end of the day, too!
:eek:

Probably no surprises, once you get into it, but it's good to be prepared before you stuff your bod into the nether recesses of your boat. (been there and done that!)

Given the vintage of the boat (and this would be true no matter who built it), be prepared to replace any water fill or exit hose you come across, while you are rummaging around back there.:D

Good luck!
 
Oct 14, 2005
2,191
1983 Hunter H34 North East, MD
Like Claude said, Welcome!

Look for "bungs" that cover up the screws that hold the aft cabin's aft panel in place--they may make it appear that the panel can't be removed. Drill a small hole in each center and use a wood screw to back them out to access the retaining screw beneath. Replacement bungs are available at most marine stores.

Good luck!
 
Dec 14, 2003
1,433
Hunter 34 Lake of Two Mountains, QC, Can
EDIT.. Here is a shot from Claude Auger showing the tank with the cover removed.. I think his 34 has the fill in the bottom of the lazarette, so I don't know if the hoses are correct for your boat..[/quote]

Hi Claude and welcome to the group wkuzon ! FWIW the fill on my tank is also under the flip-up step ! And I did have to replace the valve itself located near the port side tank and the pump. Good luck
 
Oct 14, 2005
2,191
1983 Hunter H34 North East, MD
Selector Valve...

I suspect that others have replaced the selector valve because eventually it seems to leak or become disfunctional. I don't use the aft water tank at all, believing it puts too much added weight in the stern. I have found that I don't need its extra capacity as I don't do extended cruising away from marinas.

As a consequence, I bypassed the valve altogether and ran a hose directly from the port-side tank, through a siphon valve unit for winterization, to the water pump intake port. I also installed an acesss port in the port-side tank this past season for inspection and clean-out.
 
Nov 6, 2006
10,098
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Ya right, Dan.. I managed to rebuild mine. The internal spring that holds the plug in contact with the seats had rusted .. I found a stainless spring and used that. The stem packing, which I think was a little o-ring, was replaced too.. It was leaking air into itself, but only a little water drool out.. Was making the faucets spit ..
 

wkuzon

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Aug 27, 2012
4
Hunter 34 Sandusky, Ohio
Everyone - thanks for all the information. I'll get back to this job on Friday, hopefully, so I'm sure I'll be back with more questions. Thx. Bill.
 

wkuzon

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Aug 27, 2012
4
Hunter 34 Sandusky, Ohio
Everyone - Just a f/u. With your advice, I got access to the rear water tank no problem. I now have my entire water system visualize do, if it eventually warms up a little here in Michigan, I'll get to work replacing lines, cleaning the tanks, replacing the selector valve, and so on. It's great to be able ask for this advice - thanks. Bill.
 
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