1975 P30 Shaft

[Truc]

Anyone have any specs for the shaft for the 1975 Pearson 30 with the Atomic 4 engine?
I purchased my P30 from a fellow that cut the shaft, and plugged the hole because the A4 was dead, and added a very difficult to use outboard on the stern. I do not have any of the old shaft or even the prop, however, I have found a new A4 for the boat.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Barnacle Bill]

You need to fit the new shaft to your new engine. If you have an A-4 you will have a coupler that attaches to the transmission to marry up a shaft. You can get the diameter from that hole and the key type. Then you can measure from the bottom of the coupler hole through the shaft long and strut, if there is one and then to the rudder. Look at the prop, if you have one already and see if it accepts a straight or tapered shaft and what the key way requires (straight key, woodfill and thickness, etc.).

 

[Truc]

Barnacle Bill,
Thanks for the tips! I am sure that I do not have the coupling from the old shaft, all I have is the old chewed up 2 blade prop. (that I know of) But I will try to climb down to search for it, if I can beat the heat for a little while this weekend.

I had the boat hauled this past weekend to inspect the hull, rudder etc. and to see how bad the paint was. I went ahead and had the bottom sanded and repainted while it was out. I'm not sure if the cutlass bearing is a good place to get a shaft size, but I did mic' the cutlass @ 7/8. Looking at the old prop, I think that is pretty close.

 

[Blindnavigator]

7/8 is the correct shaft size- check with d&r marine- they have a lot of Pearson parts, and may have a lead on where you can get a shaft ( which is keyed on the aft end) . Moyer marine has everything you need to keep the A4 running. While there is no shaft on the boat and it's hauled, I'd drop the rudder (two people can handle it) and replace the Delrin rudder staff bushings- got mine from D& R some years ago. The bottom one was larger than the tube, so made a wooden centering device with a hole saw then used that to enlarge the rudder tube-epoxy or marine Tex the bushings in and replace the rudder. Be sure to inspect the tiller cap for cracks ( D&R did have some stainless ones cast but gave it up because of the cost) and replace the stainless thru bolt with the highest grade bolt you can find-that's all that's holding the rudder in the boat and they fatigue over time.
Pearsons are infinitely repairable, it just takes time and patience( and a little money)