1975 C&C 33 - Mk 1: Compromised Deck Needs Help - Suggestions Please?

[Dnea]

"If you want it nice, you'll probably have to redo the nonskid again".

Yes I would definitely plan on doing a new non skid paint application. In the past I have had pretty good results with Interdeck, they have a nice tan color.

 

[Dnea]

The inside is so good that I suspect this is just a "miracle" deck coating that has failed. It will have to be sanded off and some new deck coating (with non-skid) applied.

But I would talk to the owner. Anyone who takes care of a boat that well will know the story of the deck. Are you sure it's not soft? Have you tapped it?

I'd assume that all the deck hardware needs rebedding. But that would be expected on a boat this age.

Frankly, I find talking to a knowlegable owner more useful than a typical survey. Few sailboat boat owners are going to lie just to sell their boat (would you?). They know the boat better than anyone.

You'll need to do a survey eventually, but I'd save your money until you get some of the obvious questions answered and think about your repair budget.

The only thing that hauling might show is a bad case of blisters - but again, I'd ask the owner if the boat's had blister problems and whether they were fixed.

Really hoping for no blisters - but with a haul out I'm also hoping to get a better understanding of the fin keel and rudder condition.

Re: talking to the PO I don’t think it’s possible, as I believe he has passed away.

 

[kloudie1]

The old gasoline Atomic 4 looks like it was cared for. Get comfy with the Moyer folks, the gurus for that engine.. I think that there is a C&C group on Facebook that probably has some good info too. The rod rigging (vs wire) is kinda different but is ok. It has a different inspection regimen than wire. She looks like a worthwhile project boat (he says from many miles away and insulated from monetary risk).. Great sailing boats.. Their Canadian heritage shows in a lack of ventilation in hot weather.. Good luck!

 

[jssailem]

Without a Previous Owner you have a surveyor, broker, the person or family that is selling the boat, other dock boat owners, writings, social media, marina workers etc. you can get bits of information and try to piece them together like a detective.

If the dollar value is minimal, say a couple thousand, boat money is often mad money. Not essential for bills and food. Then perhaps the expense of a surveyor is overkill. Especially if you are approaching this as a hobby and have set aside a rebuilding budget. An old boat rebuild will be at least 3 or more times the cost of the boat.

The cost in time will be large. I have been 11 months with my boat not usable due to engine rebuild. Hobby’s have a cost and a reward. Talk to anyone who has tried to turn a wreck into a hot rod.

The deck looks to be cosmetic. Look at the real difficult stuff I listed. If you think you can do the work, want to spend your free time doing it, can afford the yard space needed to do the work (yes there is a cost for a boat sitting on land while you work on it) and the boat really moves you then go for it.

 

[Dnea]

Without a Previous Owner you have a surveyor, broker, the person or family that is selling the boat, other dock boat owners, writings, social media, marina workers etc. you can get bits of information and try to piece them together like a detective.

If the dollar value is minimal, say a couple thousand, boat money is often mad money. Not essential for bills and food. Then perhaps the expense of a surveyor is overkill. Especially if you are approaching this as a hobby and have set aside a rebuilding budget. An old boat rebuild will be at least 3 or more times the cost of the boat.

The cost in time will be large. I have been 11 months with my boat not usable due to engine rebuild. Hobby’s have a cost and a reward. Talk to anyone who has tried to turn a wreck into a hot rod.

The deck looks to be cosmetic. Look at the real difficult stuff I listed. If you think you can do the work, want to spend your free time doing it, can afford the yard space needed to do the work (yes there is a cost for a boat sitting on land while you work on it) and the boat really moves you then go for it.

All good advice - really appreciate it. I do have plenty of yard space thankfully, and will learn more about the condition of the other critical systems you've mentioned. Thank you !

 

[FastOlson]

While well meaning, the occasional advice to forgo a survey is somewhat rooted in an older DIY maintenance/ownership tradition.
In my geographic area, every marina and yacht club marina will require proof of insurance. This must specify "wreck removal and pollution abatement" and some have minimums for overall liability coverage. Insurance companies, disliking any obvious future claim payout, demand a current survey before they will write a policy.
Besides, a survey is a great "road map" for the (deferred!) maintenance you will inherit on any used boat over ten years old. In these modern times, a survey will be a large PDF file with a mass of digital photos accompanying it, often on a thumb drive. It's difficult to overestimate the value to a new owner provided by this dispassionate evaluation of the "new" boat that they are infatuated with...!
Best of luck with your 'new'-to-you boat!!

 

[High Current]

Besides, a survey is a great "road map" for the (deferred!) maintenance you will inherit on any used boat over ten years old. In these modern times, a survey will be a large PDF file with a mass of digital photos accompanying it, often on a thumb drive. It's difficult to overestimate the value to a new owner provided by this dispassionate evaluation of the "new" boat that they are infatuated with...!

Yes exactly! A good surveyor is definitely worth the money. Interview a few before you pick one. I learned so much from mine. If you think of the cost as paying for an education, it's a bargain.

Quotes that rings in my ears:
"but you knew you were buying a project boat, right?"
"does this engine even run?"
"it's a good price, but...man...this boat has a lot of issues"

I walked away but ultimately ended up buying the same model of boat.

 

[High Current]

The only thing that hauling might show is a bad case of blisters - but again, I'd ask the owner if the boat's had blister problems and whether they were fixed.

A lot of C&C's have cored hulls below the waterline, although I gather the 33 only has it in the forward panels. (The Dual-Purpose C&C 33 Mark II - Practical Sailor). That would be a major, haul-out-worthy concern for me.

 

[Dnea]

As I understand it the first release of the C&C 33 (Mk-1) was a fully fiberglassed hull, not cored. After a few years they then switched to the cored hull for Mk-2. This is a '75 so I assume it is not a cored hull.

 

[jssailem]

This is a '75 so I assume it is not a cored hull.

One thing I have learned about boats…
Never assume anything.

You need to inspect and verify. I looked at a boat in Florida with a friend. Inspecting the forward bow there was extensive evidence of water intrusion. From the inside, you could see the sunshine through the fiberglass bow on the starboard side but not on the port. This did not make sense, then we learned the hull was cored. The purchase was cancelled.

 

[Hollyberry]

Pretty sure a '75 C&C 33 will be a solid glass hull, in that size range I believe the 34 was the first cored venture, along with the 26, later in the '70s..

 

[Dnea]

Pretty sure a '75 C&C 33 will be a solid glass hull, in that size range I believe the 34 was the first cored venture, along with the 26, later in the '70s..

Yes that is what I gained from reviewing some C&C history and specifications for the different iterations of the 33.

 

[Dnea]

Thank you so much to everyone who has provided input - I really appreciate it.

I did a 10 minute sounding test on the deck yesterday. It sounded nice and sharp, high pitched with one area excepted... That area is on the narrow deck area outside of the coaming upstand, and above the portside quarter berth. It looks to me like a repair that didnt go quite far enough and has allowed moisture in over time. Below there are also traces of slight discoloration on the gelcoat which wipe off. So pending the haul out and hull, rudder and fin keel inspection (soon) I'm feeling pretty good about taking this forward. I guess that area would be a cut and replace core job, pending confirmation with a marine survey. The damaged area is a little over 1 sf and is where the dull sound occurred. (See pic looking aft.) so this would be a part of the new deck repair/restore/gel oat etc.

I have vids too but I get a message from this site that the files are too large. If anyone is interested perhaps they can transmit as a DM, not sure.

 

[kloudie1]

May be the result of leaking fasteners under the track.. That one willl have to be lifted for the repair, so once ya see that one's attachments, then re bed the other one as well.. Bed It Butyl tape is the ticket for that.
Amazon.com: Bed-IT Tape, Butyl-Hybrid, for Bedding Marine Deck Hardware (50 Foot Roll) : Sports & Outdoors

 

[Dnea]

May be the result of leaking fasteners under the track.. That one willl have to be lifted for the repair, so once ya see that one's attachments, then re bed the other one as well.. Bed It Butyl tape is the ticket for that.

Thanks for that link, very helpful. We are leaning toward removal of most/all deck fastened components so the deck can be worked on, repaired, painted then rebedding and installing components.

 

[High Current]

Those cracks look a lot more serious than anything in your other photos. It looks as if the core has disintegrated to the point that the top laminate is also failing. It may be a trick of the camera, but it also looks like that stanchion base is breaking through the laminate, which may be where it started. Definitely plan to re-core this section.

 

[Dnea]

I agree.
This is the most compromised area. Its not good but seems very localized.

Thanks for your input.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

Be really really careful when using a pressure washer. I had a lot of leaks later that season. Rebedding took virtually the whole winter