1974 O'Day 19

[burnst40]

I amtrying to come up with a workable strategy to remove the very corroded and encrusted centerboard of my boat without either breaking the bank or my back. I know that you can drop it to the ground through the well after removing the pivot pin but that involves taking the boat off the trailer and supporting it on stands.
A second strategy has occured to me which is to remove it from the top of the well, obviating the need to remove the boat from the trailer. The latter, however, assumes that there is a way of hooking up the centerboard to a hoist to bring it up and out. At 168 lbs it would clearly be a clumsy task to lift it out by hand, not to mention potentially hazardous to the fingers.
Does anyone have any success stories that I could benefit from?

 

[Joe11688]

I would take the boat off the trailer. Do you have access to four sailboat stands? Wooden blocks? A hydraulic jack? The O'Day Mariner isn't all that heavy. You could build some sort of a beam to support the stern. The bow could be supported with wood blocks criss crossed.
I know. It's easier said than done, right? I know of a guy who built a beam out of 6" planks, Gorilla Glue and lags. Another guy built a support out of regular lumber.
I use four boat sailboat stands, one powerboat stand, 6"X 6"X 3.5' blocks, and my Speed floor jack.
Is your trailer a bunk or roller trailer? With a roller trailer you could tie off the stern of the boat to something stationary like a tree and use your towing vehicle to to get the boat off the trailer and on to tires placed on the ground or a beam. The beam has to be set up so that the boat stays straight so the boat doesn't tip over. You must remove as much weight from the boat as possible. You need to make it as light as you can.
Once the boat is on the ground, you can get some guys to help you tip it up on it's side and Mickey Mouse some type of a way to keep it in that position so that you can get at the board. That would probably be easier and safer than working under it.
I've been taking my O'Day 222 off the trailer and putting it on stands ever since I've owned it. It's easier for me to bottom paint the boat and check my centerboard shackle and pendant line with it off the trailer. The job is easy with the right equipment. Sailboat stands can lift that boat with no problem.

With a bunk trailer:
Place four stands, two on each side of the boat at the stern and use a hydraulic jack placed under the bow to jack her up. Then use a car stand placed under the bow close to the back of the trailer's cross member to hold the height. Remove the jack and roll the trailer forward by hand until the the car stand is up against the next cross member and continue on until the trailer is moved out from under the hull. Keep the boat level at all times. Is this job dangerous? Yes it is and you need to take every precaution by shoring up under the stern with wood blocks. When most of the hull is clear of the trailer, shore up under the bow of the boat with criss crossed wood blocks.
You can get the boat up high enough to work under it but it's not the most comfortable position to work under the keel. I really have no choice. I use an old tarp to lay on or my automotive creeper. Whereas, your boat is lighter in weight, you could probably get it off the trailer and on to something like styrofoam blocks or tires laid on the ground. It's your choice. Do whatever you feel is easier and safer for you. If you can get it off the trailer, you'll be able to get it back on the same way. If you use the boat stands, blocks, and jack, make sure that the trailer is level from side to side especially when lowering the boat down on the trailer.
If for instance the trailer isn't quite centered under the hull, you can center it pretty easy by placing the speedy floor jack under the center of the trailer on a short plank and jacking it up. This will allow you to litterally slide the trailer by hand over to where it needs to be. The wheels of the jack will enable you to do this. Sound incredible? I'm able do this with my 23' tandem Aluminum bunk trailer. Many thanks to Bay Sailor Bill and 48 Dodge for sharing their pics with me.

 

[djmeaney]

I have removed the CB from my '70 Mariner twice. Both times by moving the trailer forward. Basically, I would lift the boat high enough to clear the trailer using cement blocks, 4x4's and a car jack -- bringing each side, fore and aft, up a few inches at a time. Pulling the trailer forward till the rear support just cleared the CB slot and then lowering front of boat back onto trailer with trailer still attached to tow vehicle. Then I would adjust the rear of the boat so it was close to level.

All in all it took about 30 to 45 minutes to drop the board.

If you haven't done so already, I suggest you check out the Mariner Class Association Web site (www.usmariner.org) -- there is a $15/year membership fee but it is well worth the cost. The Association has about 400 active members -- many of whom have or are restoring their boats. There are many active fleets as well.

The president of the Association has a great Web site where he has documented many of his projects, including CB removal, and it also worth checking out at http://www.nathanbayreuther.com/mariner/index.htm

Good luck....

Dan

I amtrying to come up with a workable strategy to remove the very corroded and encrusted centerboard of my boat without either breaking the bank or my back. I know that you can drop it to the ground through the well after removing the pivot pin but that involves taking the boat off the trailer and supporting it on stands.
A second strategy has occured to me which is to remove it from the top of the well, obviating the need to remove the boat from the trailer. The latter, however, assumes that there is a way of hooking up the centerboard to a hoist to bring it up and out. At 168 lbs it would clearly be a clumsy task to lift it out by hand, not to mention potentially hazardous to the fingers.
Does anyone have any success stories that I could benefit from?

 

[toddco]

I took the center board out of my Oday 20 by lowering the trailer tounge and then blocking the stern , just fore of the keel and also at the front support of the bunk boards. My bunk boards on the trailer are adjustable. I kept lifting the boat and moving the supports higher as I went. It took about 4" higher than the origninal bunk height to get the center board to clear. I used the trailer jack for all the lifting. I felt pretty safe as all the moves were less than 1 1/2". I had to let the bow eye off as I went.

Good Luck!

Todd

 

[toddco]

I don't believe you could take the pivot pin out the top of the Center board trunk in my Oday 20. I have no idea on the 19.

 

[Sunbird22358]

I don't believe you could take the pivot pin out the top of the Center board trunk in my Oday 20. I have no idea on the 19.

On the O'DAY 19 the CB pivot is removed from below just like most (but I think, not ALL) of the 20s. The CB is held in by 2 stainless Steel plates screwed to the bottom of the boat that hold in 2 wedges. DS II from 1980-85 and DS III from 1985-89 used this setup as well.

However, the original post was not about an O'DAY 19 contrary to the title, but refering actually to a MARINER. The Mariner CB pivots on a bronze bushing that is held in by a bolt through the CB trunk accessed from inside the cabin. The DS II used this setup but with a plastic bushing from 1971-79, as did the Widgeon from 1971-89)

I have now added a copy of an old Small Boat Journal article that showed how one owner would get his boat off the trailer to paint the bottom. I use a similar setup to lift my DS II off the trailer to paint ot if I need to remove the CB. I support the stern on a beam between 2 saw horses and the bow stays supported by the trailer. However, I actually have the entire boat blocked up above the trailer while pulling hte trailer part-way out, then lower the bow back down onto the trailer. I do Most of the jacking using the tongue jack on the trailer, rather than a car jack.

It is important when any of us ask questions that we be sure we refer to the proper model. O'DAY built 4 different 19' models (Rhodes 19, Mariner, 19, and 192, plus there were 2 different models of the Mariner using the same hull but 3 different deck designs.)
RHODES 19 1958-1978 (Mariner is the same hull)
Mariner 1962-68 (open cabin, 2-berths)
Mariner 2+2 1969-72 (self-bailing cockpit, closed cabin, 4-berths)
Mariner 2+2 (AKA Mariner) 1972-79 (single-level cabin trunk, but otherwise same as 1969-72)

O'DAY 19 (completely new design by C.Raymond Hunt Assoc.) 1979-84

192 (New design, basically a smaller 222) 1985-89

 

[Joe11688]

It's possible to shore up the stern of the boat and get most of the hull off the trailer leaving the bow section over the axle of the trailer. In such case I would also still shore up under the bow of the boat and remove the towing vehicle rather than tie it up for any length of time hooked to the trailer. As it is, I would only use a towing vehicle to pull the trailer out from under the boat if the trailer is a complete roller trailer. The stern would need to be roped to something stationary like a tree to prevent the boat from moving as you pull the trailer out from under the Hull.

Getting the roller trailer back under the boat is simple and the tow vehicle is not used.

The trailer is lined up to the bow and keel of the boat and the trailer winch is used to winch the trailer under the boat. The trailer tongue may rise a little but as she gets under the hull it will go down to a more normal position. Of course, the trailer needs to have a good tongue jack with the wheel to roll on. If the ground is soft, place a long 1" X 8" board under this wheel for it to roll on. As long as you have good shoring under the stern that can provide the support needed for the weight of the boat and keep it from tipping over sideways, it will work.

It goes without saying. It dangerous! Anytime you are dealing with weight of this nature there's a risk involved. The boat can tip over and a person can be crushed in the process. Do this at your own risk. If you don't feel comfortable doing it, don't do it and go to plan B, whatever that is.

I'm in the process of putting together a new picture album on this site that deals with taking the boat off a trailer and putting it on boat stands. I should have it complete tonight.

 

[djmeaney]

Rod,

The article you attached describes the technique that I use to move my trailer forward enough to drop the centerboard on my Mariner. It has worked very well for me.

Dan
Mariner #2024
Mirror #55385
B&B Spindrift (under construction)

On the O'DAY 19 the CB pivot is removed from below just like most (but I think, not ALL) of the 20s. The CB is held in by 2 stainless Steel plates screwed to the bottom of the boat that hold in 2 wedges. DS II from 1980-85 and DS III from 1985-89 used this setup as well.

However, the original post was not about an O'DAY 19 contrary to the title, but refering actually to a MARINER. The Mariner CB pivots on a bronze bushing that is held in by a bolt through the CB trunk accessed from inside the cabin. The DS II used this setup but with a plastic bushing from 1971-79, as did the Widgeon from 1971-89)

I have now added a copy of an old Small Boat Journal article that showed how one owner would get his boat off the trailer to paint the bottom. I use a similar setup to lift my DS II off the trailer to paint ot if I need to remove the CB. I support the stern on a beam between 2 saw horses and the bow stays supported by the trailer. However, I actually have the entire boat blocked up above the trailer while pulling hte trailer part-way out, then lower the bow back down onto the trailer. I do Most of the jacking using the tongue jack on the trailer, rather than a car jack.

It is important when any of us ask questions that we be sure we refer to the proper model. O'DAY built 4 different 19' models (Rhodes 19, Mariner, 19, and 192, plus there were 2 different models of the Mariner using the same hull but 3 different deck designs.)
RHODES 19 1958-1978 (Mariner is the same hull)
Mariner 1962-68 (open cabin, 2-berths)
Mariner 2+2 1969-72 (self-bailing cockpit, closed cabin, 4-berths)
Mariner 2+2 (AKA Mariner) 1972-79 (single-level cabin trunk, but otherwise same as 1969-72)

O'DAY 19 (completely new design by C.Raymond Hunt Assoc.) 1979-84

192 (New design, basically a smaller 222) 1985-89

 

[RTSKI]

Happened upon this thread, something I have thought about but have yet to do. Great responses - THANK YOU to all the handy-man sailors out there. Richard

 

[joes new addiction]

You can go the the US mariner assoc web site and find lots of suggestions on your centerboard refinish.
I found a level spot in my yard, dropped the tongue of my trailer as far as it would go, (lifts the back of the boat).
4X4X10' under the tramsom, (10' long gives you jacking room and support room. I jacked as close to the boat as I could and supported on the ends), 2-2X6 screwed together can cut into wedges to block the boat from leaning, (cover all wood with carpet felt to prevent scratches and cracks).
I used a bottle jack and my auto floor jack to lift her up 1/2" at a time, oh, 3' er so. (I had a 2'X2' concrete paver on the ground cuz I was doing this on the grass. Used a 4X4 "pillar" between the jack and the support 4X4.
Once the aft is lifted I used cyinderblocks, wood to hold it in place (making sure the boat was level across the support.
I added a support in the center of the 4X4 under the center of the boat, just incase.........
I lifter the front of the trailer as highas I could, (with the crank and later with the floor jack).
Slid another 4X4 X10' 'bout 3/4 the way foreward, (maybe 1' infront of the trailer wheels), again cut wedges and felt covered.
Lowered the trailer front and rolled the trailer forward to clear the center board.
Was pretty solid.
Lowered the center board, (it was at a 45 degree angle or there abouts on the ground, figured it'd be easy to lower that way than straight up and down, (and I was scared to lift the boat THAT high), and put back). put tape at marks to show leading edge, where the bolt goes through to give me a guide to where to position it back in place,cut the cable, used my floor jack and impact and un did the bolt, popped it out lowered the jack and it kinda sorta lowered/fell out.
Refinished it. I ground it clean, 2 coats West System Epoxy, 4 coats of hull paint, I'm hoping it'll last another 25 years!
Installation is kinda easy.
Put a 4X8 piece of plywood on the grass under the boat, (firm floor to work off of), and some carpet (to keep fron scratching it all up. (I taped the edges of the center board with painters tape, again to avoid chips)
Used my floor jack to kinda sorta roll it under the boat, stood it on edge, that was a hard part!!!! (MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORECT EDGE DOWN!! I installed mine, then realized it was up side down!!!!).
Jack the front edge up, (once it gets into the tunnel it won't fall over).
Attach the lifitng cable or rope
Align it in place, tap bolt through, seal the through bolt/nut up.
I used "Iron rope" instead of a cable, if you use a cable, Home Depot sells the crimper like $23, I got the S.S. cable and crimpes from Grainer (incase), but the "Iron Rope" I got from Ebay.
Took me more time to lift the boat and block it up than it did to drop and re install. (even doing it twice)!
I think the hardest part was getting the center board @ in the shop.
Next time I think I'll lift the entire trailer, block the boat and lower the trailer
away from her.
Joe
3686
Always remember take any advice or things I do with a can of beer-er 2!