There are some good books on A4 maintenance including the original owner's manual. But, if you get any mechanic to check the ignition (i.e. spark to the components of the ignition system: spark plugs, points, coil, etc.). There is a simple procedure to access this. Some Atomic 4's don't have points in the distributor, but instead have been fitted with a CD ignition. If you have a distributor with points and a distributor, it has been my experience that the points are the problem. You can buy them from Moyer, Marysville Marine, Napa, or any good boat store that handles such things. You gap them the thickness of the box they come in (like a match book cardboard thickness). Most of the time that is all they need. If the ignition components are in good condition and the engine still does not start, then you must check out the compression of the cylinders or the fuel to make sure it is not dirty, has water or another contaminant in it. It would do you good to learn up on this stuff. It is not that difficult, actually.
1973 Pearson 30 with Atomic 4
- Thread starter LakeMurraySailor
- Start date
Thanks for the input and for taking the time to respond BB! I took some photos and sent them to a guy in Maine that rebuilds them. He reported that the engine was probably done. He's got a rebuilt one and a used one that he's hoping to sell. I would love to buy either but now I'm leaning towards pulling the engine out and getting a mechanic to repair the one I have. We shall see!
My Atomic Four died. So, I redid my Atomic Four.. On youtube you can search for "RobertLangDirect"
Video with head off and new valves
Starting the REVALVED and NEW HEAD GASKET atomic four. This was ACTUALLY, REALLY, no kidding, the first crank after we put everything together.
Moyer Marine encouraged me to rebuild rather than order a new engine, BTW. Thanks -- Moyer Marine!
Video with head off and new valves
Starting the REVALVED and NEW HEAD GASKET atomic four. This was ACTUALLY, REALLY, no kidding, the first crank after we put everything together.
Moyer Marine encouraged me to rebuild rather than order a new engine, BTW. Thanks -- Moyer Marine!
I also helped a friend pull out his engine from a Pearson 30 and install a new (rebuilt) one. Easy to do with BOOM, COME-ALONG, and four or five friends for the manpower.
Got the head off today. I learned that the previous owner spent eight years trying to do this.
Bob, that was an amazing feat of perseverance! I will NEVER tell you that you can't do something or that it can't be done. Impressive to save the very least! Thank you.
Ray, thank you so much for recommending to Bob that he contact me! That is amazing that you wield that kind of power! I am summarily impressed! And from far away too! Ha ha! Bob is a magician with that engine! Incredible for sure!
Ahem! Stuck? Seriously? Lee, Lee, Lee. You're "stuck" on one of the finest sailing lakes in the USA! Now write 100 times, "I love sailing on Lake Murray." It's due by lunch tomorrow.
Kermie, I've been on Lake Murray since I was nine! I'm 63 now, do the math: I love this lake. What I meant was I'm not sailing the ocean blue and going where the wind blows me! I will always love Lake Murray and just to be clear, I have left explicit instructions for my ashes to be scattered on this "great" lake after cremation, I will never leave this lake!
According to everything I've read the A4 was purpose designed and built to be just what it is. While there are some similarities with other small "F" head 4 cyl engines the A4 is the A4 and not a modified or marinized something else.
Yup.. It (the Atomic 4) does look similar..but the block is cast from a different metal.. If I recall correctly, it is a higher nickel cast iron for corrosion resistance.. but there apparently are no interchangeable parts with the Continental 4 cyl flathead motors and its cousins in welders and various old military stationary generators, and old Willis Jeeps etc. I did a dimension search because I figured they were a common block, but I found nothing to verify my curiosity. One strangeness is the power take off is opposite the flywheel..
Might want to spend the time and effort rebuilding something like this instead.
Yanmar diesel YSM12 - $1200 (Charleston)
or
Yanmar diesel marine engine - $1800 (st. pete)
or
Yanmar diesel 2gm20f needs repair - $850 (Cape Coral)
Yanmar diesel YSM12 - $1200 (Charleston)
or
Yanmar diesel marine engine - $1800 (st. pete)
or
Yanmar diesel 2gm20f needs repair - $850 (Cape Coral)
Just remember if you change to a diesel, the motor is not the only thing to change. Fuel tank, mounts, trans/reversing gear, and possibly shaft. At the very least modify the shaft.
That was the main reason I rebuilt mine instead of replacing. The cost was not in the cards for my old girl.
But this is coming from a guy that motors maybe 10 hours a year.
That was the main reason I rebuilt mine instead of replacing. The cost was not in the cards for my old girl.
But this is coming from a guy that motors maybe 10 hours a year.
I love my Atomic 4, Bob's purrs like a kitten! I would never change unless, of course, someone offered me a free replacement and by the way offered to make the switch too! The chances of that are slim to none so I guess I'll stick with plan A but thanks for the advice!
I owned a P30 years ago with the Atomic Four and it was a reliable, simple engine. It is carbureted with a conventional distributor based ignition system. Any qualified gasoline engine mechanic can give you ana assessment of what it might take to get it running.