I need to replace all six windows. (three are cracked). Does anybody know if a plastics company has the measurements on file per model and can fabricate and ship? Tnx.
11.0A windows
- Thread starter Mark Maulden
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do you have the windows out of the openings...if not remove them and clean them up ....go to a plastics fabricater and have them use your old ones as a pattern.....or you could go to a wood working shop tha has router capabilities and have them duplicated...this is all based on the fact that you are talking about the ones that are perminatly mounted in the cabin and not the port lights that open...also if they are like the ones on my 9.2 they will be 3/16's thick material either plexie glass or lexan...i am still pondering what type of material i will use one works better than the other when using the sealer to put them back .....
regards
woody
That's the original plan. Was just wondering if somebody knew of a plastics outfit that had done this before and had the measurements on hand so I could order before removal of the old windows. Perhaps they're all somewhat "different".....
to my knowledge they were cut as built it the factory...but that may not be accurate as anything at this point would be hear say......
regards
woody
I was thinking that I would make patterns by taping paper over them and then making a rubbing with a pencil or similar. That way I could get an exact pattern without pulling the windows. Alternately, find a glass company close to the boat. Some might even be able to drive up in a van and cut it on site.
I replaced mine a few years ago on my 9.2A. I think it's a similar process in most of the S2's. In their 1998 letter re: FAQ's, the S2 people described how the windows were originally put in: http://www.angelfire.com/mi/loosecruise/S2/13pageletter.html
I traced patterns by rubbing pencil over paper and took them to a TAP plastics store and they attached the patterns to some dark lexan and cut them out. As I was warned, several windows came out in pieces so tracing them while they were still together was key. The patterns were pretty close and what trimming I needed I did onsite with a jigsaw and power sander. The lexan works as easy as wood, next time I would not be afraid to cut them out myself and just buy the lexan by the sheet. If you are completely redoing the silicone bedding, getting them set and the silicone smoothed is a bit of a firedrill (mask off everything nearby on both interior AND exterior). If the silicone only needs a "touchup" it will be easier since the window will be held in the correct place while bonding. Be sure to roughen edges and ensure the silicone overlaps at least a tiny amount over the outside surface of the window otherwise I found the window will later tend to pop out if anyone pushed on it from inside. Good Luck!
I traced patterns by rubbing pencil over paper and took them to a TAP plastics store and they attached the patterns to some dark lexan and cut them out. As I was warned, several windows came out in pieces so tracing them while they were still together was key. The patterns were pretty close and what trimming I needed I did onsite with a jigsaw and power sander. The lexan works as easy as wood, next time I would not be afraid to cut them out myself and just buy the lexan by the sheet. If you are completely redoing the silicone bedding, getting them set and the silicone smoothed is a bit of a firedrill (mask off everything nearby on both interior AND exterior). If the silicone only needs a "touchup" it will be easier since the window will be held in the correct place while bonding. Be sure to roughen edges and ensure the silicone overlaps at least a tiny amount over the outside surface of the window otherwise I found the window will later tend to pop out if anyone pushed on it from inside. Good Luck!
I haven't found a TAP plastics or other plastic co in the Bellingham or Skagit Co. Did you have to go to the Seattle area?
11.0 A Windows
Several years ago I replaced the windows on my S2 9.2A. I read the writeup on the factory method of installation and decided I didn't want any part of it. Too messy and not substantial enough. After removing the windows and taping the broken ones together I went to Commercial Plastics in Seattle and had them make new ones. If I was to do it again I would simply buy material and cut them myself with a router and a tracing bit (I made a windshield for an old motor cycle that way). To install the windows I layed out and drilled holes for bolts, installed stainless steel T-nuts on the inside, bedded the windows with butyl tape (it has adhesive on both sides) and bolted them in place using self-sealing washers on the outside.
Lessons learned:
I used 3/16" Plexiglas, should have been 1/4", I have some cracks.
Install more bolts, that will decrease the individual bolt load and reduce cracking
Possibly use thinner 3/32" butyl tape instead of 1/8", again to reduce the individual bolt load and reduce cracking.
My boat is in Seattle on the Duwamish River if you would like to see the installation.
Good luck!
Several years ago I replaced the windows on my S2 9.2A. I read the writeup on the factory method of installation and decided I didn't want any part of it. Too messy and not substantial enough. After removing the windows and taping the broken ones together I went to Commercial Plastics in Seattle and had them make new ones. If I was to do it again I would simply buy material and cut them myself with a router and a tracing bit (I made a windshield for an old motor cycle that way). To install the windows I layed out and drilled holes for bolts, installed stainless steel T-nuts on the inside, bedded the windows with butyl tape (it has adhesive on both sides) and bolted them in place using self-sealing washers on the outside.
Lessons learned:
I used 3/16" Plexiglas, should have been 1/4", I have some cracks.
Install more bolts, that will decrease the individual bolt load and reduce cracking
Possibly use thinner 3/32" butyl tape instead of 1/8", again to reduce the individual bolt load and reduce cracking.
My boat is in Seattle on the Duwamish River if you would like to see the installation.
Good luck!
11.0 A Windows
I will take some pictures of the window installation on my S2 and try to post them here. I tried to post some once before and gave up in frustration, don't know if it was the system or my capabilities that was the problem.
I will take some pictures of the window installation on my S2 and try to post them here. I tried to post some once before and gave up in frustration, don't know if it was the system or my capabilities that was the problem.
Last year there was an auto glass shop at the dock across from me putting in new windows on older hunter. maybe a 32 ft? I watched them pull off each window and then cut a new one right there on the dock. I walked over and talked to the 2 guys installing and asked about possibly getting mine redone on my 11.0. They were going to come over when they were done, but they must have forgot. They replaced all his "fixed" windows with a product that was better (scratchs less and has better clarity) than plexiglass. It was what is being used on all boats now apparently. He told me based on what he could see from where he was standing that my boat would be around $600 to replace them all. I know your looking to do them yourselves, but it comes with a leak warranty and they did a real nice job with the sealant on the outside looking like the original. I think it was auto glass specialists?
i have the patterns here in my shop if you are interested contact me via email at woodster3046@yahoo.com ...they are the old windows off my 9.2 a that i removed in tact......
regards
woody
regards
woody
Well, as the OP, I chickened out.....I contracted with the local yard to have it done. Not cheap but it will be done in a few days vs a weekend per window if I did it. (I'm still working full time and did not want this to drag out) I discussed the process with them and was impressed as they knew the proper amounts of sealants vs expansion factors etc. Also, they knew how to shim in all dimensions along with tricks to keep apparent air bubbles from "showing" in the bonded areas. They also had a way to pull windows inboard during cure and also apply vacuum bagging. Will happen sometime next week WX dependent. I'll let ya know how it turns out.
Our windows are finally done. Weather has NOT been cooperating in the PNW lately. I think we had summer last weekend. The material used is bronze tinted 3/8 polycarb. They are bedded in Sika 295 UV polysulfate. So far, they've survived 35deg to 75 deg and one weekend of sailing. For me, I think it was a wise decision to have the yard do it as 1) it has a warrranty, 2) they had a way to apply compression, 3) a sure way that no air bubbles showed, and 4) I'd still be there with black stuff all over the place....
Oh no problem. We bought this boat in Feb at a really decent price with some known issues which I've corrected. We're still way ahead of the game and it got us sailing this season..
sometimes
Cool. It's all about opportunity/cost, as I learned in accounting. I'll take an opportunity to sail at almost any cost
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