Is it typical to have electrical connections -
- Thread starter skrause
- Start date
I would consider replacing those three connectors with a single 3-pin IP67/68 connector.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,546
I did not like the idea of wire connections in the Mast base, but I wanted to be able to disconnect the wires should I need to remove the mast from the boat.
Here is my solution.
The Mast step has holes with pipes inserted. The idea is that if water gets into the mast and accumulates, the pipes will be above the water level. The base of the mast has weep holes for any water in the mast to flow out onto the deck and overboard.
Hoses are attached to the pipes. Wires run down inside the mast and form a loop at the base to allow water to drip off the wire before it can run up into the hose.
All wires come through the deck into the cabin and are terminated at a block. This area has remained dry since 2016.
A chase was designed to cover the wire cables. Radar and VHF antenna cables are run from the mast to the nav station. They are continuous and will need to be addressed separately should I have to remove the mast. This was done to minimize signal loss.
Here is my solution.
The Mast step has holes with pipes inserted. The idea is that if water gets into the mast and accumulates, the pipes will be above the water level. The base of the mast has weep holes for any water in the mast to flow out onto the deck and overboard.
Hoses are attached to the pipes. Wires run down inside the mast and form a loop at the base to allow water to drip off the wire before it can run up into the hose.
All wires come through the deck into the cabin and are terminated at a block. This area has remained dry since 2016.
A chase was designed to cover the wire cables. Radar and VHF antenna cables are run from the mast to the nav station. They are continuous and will need to be addressed separately should I have to remove the mast. This was done to minimize signal loss.
My preferred solution to getting the wiring from the base of the mast above deck to a dry terminal strip below deck is one of these:
Lots of options with test data. I ended up using a plastic connector and was impressed with its robustness
www.practical-sailor.com
Watertight Connector Test - Practical Sailor
Keeping water out of plug-and-socket unions is harder than it seems. PS Best Choice is the Sea Dog Polarized Electrical Outlet.
www.practical-sailor.com
Do you know the name of this contraption?My preferred solution to getting the wiring from the base of the mast above deck to a dry terminal strip below deck is one of these:
This is what I have on my boat - quite like it. I've no idea what it's called.My preferred solution to getting the wiring from the base of the mast above deck to a dry terminal strip below deck is one of these:
dj
It's called a swan neck: Amazon.com: Ventilation Tube, Stainless Steel Swan Neck 35 Mm / 1.4 in. Boat Ventilation Tube to Sailor Boat for Sailor
Mark
Mark
The swan neck is additional protection to ensure there is a drip loop inside the mast to prevent water from following the wires to get inside the boat.
The most obvious problem is the connectors do not appear to be protected from water. That would be the first step ... make a solution that prevents any exposure to water at the connections. Following that reasoning, there are choices to make the connections either inside the mast or inside the boat. That would require you to make a choice that best fits your preference. Once you've done that, you will want to choose the appropriate method for preventing water from following the wires through the hole in your deck.
Those are the 2 basic objectives: protect the connections from water and prevent water from entering the boat where the wires pass thru the deck.
As noted above, there are many ways to go about this. We all have our preferred methods. Some of us live with unsatisfactory situations (I'm looking at myself
)
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The First 235 is a trailer-sailor, so frequently removing the mast is common. Easy to disconnect connectors are good.
Despite that Practical Sailor review, I do not like the Sea Dog brand. They are easy to install but they corrode really fast, just a few years and they are done, and I'm in fresh water. At least they are cheap.
Some people say this one is good but I haven't tried it.
Despite that Practical Sailor review, I do not like the Sea Dog brand. They are easy to install but they corrode really fast, just a few years and they are done, and I'm in fresh water. At least they are cheap.
Some people say this one is good but I haven't tried it.
I really appreciate the info and suggested solutions. Now to make a plan …
Great point. You probably know by now that just about every solution on a sailboat is a compromise. Your connection is probably best served above the deck with a plug connection inside the mast. A plug connection isn't as waterproof as a heat-shrinked connection, but you can't live with a heat-shrink connection if you are routinely pulling the connections apart. You should be able to find a suitable plug connection.
I've used a 4-prong connector successfully on my previous boat. If you have 3 loads on the mast, say, anchor light, steaming light, and deck light, you can run a positive lead for each and join all negative leads in a waterproofed junction above the plug. Make one lead (calculate the wire size for additional current) for the 4th prong. Carry the combined negative lead thru the deck & back to the panel. If you just have 2 loads, then you have 2 positive & 2 negative. I never worried too much about carrying one negative lead for 3 loads. The current is typically small for each individually, and in practice, I never used any of the lights concurrently anyway. Still, I did upgrade the common negative lead to at least 14 awg.
My Beneteau has three similar deck “clam shell“ fittings in which the VHF coax, wind instrument cable, & mast lighting wires pass thru the deck. No problems with the clamshell corroding nor leaking. The slack as seen in your photo is pulled thru the clam shells to tidy the wires & the connections are made inside the cabin. BUT, my mast isn’t removed. In your case, it would be very inconvenient to connect & disconnect the wire terminals every time you sail. Think that @Foswick & @ Scott T-Bird’s idea to use a plug(s) would be the better solution for a trailer sailor.
Thanks, despite it being a trailer sailor, it is not used like that, at least currently. Lives in a slip all summer and then with mast up, stored outside (winterized and covered up nice and cozy in tarps). Then dropped in the water again for the 2026 season. Thanks again for this advice, I have a sense of what the priorities are for the fix and some options. BTW - went for my 3rd sail yesterday in Midland Bay, ON, and had a great time - really loving this little boat. So much to learn and enjoying the process.