Anchors
- Thread starter pumpkinpie
- Start date
Stainless anchors sure look pretty, but I don' t think the critters on the bottom or in the mud care how the anchor looks. Unless there is some compelling reason to go with SS, the galvanized one will work just as well and leave some money for other projects and toys.
Every anchor is at risk of loss now and then. Sometimes they just get hung up and are irretrievable. Why throw away all that extra money? Add to that a bright shiny anchor which is a magnet for thieves, why waste the money?
Our galvanized Rocna has somewhere around 2000 nights on the bottom (since we bought it used) and has worn some of the galvanizing off the fluke, but not enough to get any rust streaks on the boat or anything more than surface oxidation on the steel. again, why waste the money?
Our galvanized Rocna has somewhere around 2000 nights on the bottom (since we bought it used) and has worn some of the galvanizing off the fluke, but not enough to get any rust streaks on the boat or anything more than surface oxidation on the steel. again, why waste the money?
ditto on the galvanized Rocna! I went oversize on Escape with the 44lb, it's plenty for your 38. Works fantastically on a wide variety of bottoms and has never dragged for us - winds up to 45kts. Escape has pretty high freeboard and a tall dodger/bimini so a lot of windage and we've never had any issues.
Is Stainless Steel Really the Best Metal for Use in an Anchor? - Practical Sailor
Since 1974, Practical Sailor’s independent testing has taken the guesswork out of boat and gear buying.
www.practical-sailor.com
I see no advantage of the stainless steel option over the galvanized steel option for these anchors. They set equally well, the galvanized may actually be a bit stronger. Carry a can of galvanizing paint and if some spots look thin or scratched, touch it up. Done - no rust to worry about.
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Great article. ThnxIs Stainless Steel Really the Best Metal for Use in an Anchor? - Practical Sailor
Since 1974, Practical Sailor’s independent testing has taken the guesswork out of boat and gear buying.
Reading the article produced this gem of a summary statement.
Stainless steel anchors are welded structures, and if properly designed and fabricated, they are a valid alternative to other metals. When submerged, their holding power is neither increased nor decreased over a galvanized mild-steel..,
Rocna is a great anchor choice. The weight of these anchors is not as critical as with older anchor designs, eg. CQR types. Those older designs were based on field plows and they tended to drag (plow) the bottom. The Rocna tends to dig itself down as your boat pulls on it. You may not need a heavy anchor to be effective. Use Rocna's charts to determine the size you need. As has been pointed out above galvanized is fine unless you have a show boat.
So, I have a SS Suncor Plowmaster and SS chain. They were on the boat when I bought it. I’m sure that I would not have gone out and bought SS ground tackle had the boat needed it replaced, or needed it anew. However, there’s a bit more here than simple cosmetics, although I think most would question whether it worth the extra cost. The chain passes through the windlass very smoothly, and does not kink, ever, as it is veered; nor, when powered up. B/c SS chain is smooth (slippery), the “volcanos” of plied up chain do not grow high. So, I never have to knock ‘em down to get all of the chain into the locker. Of course, there is no rust nor any type of “scaling deposit” on the chain. The anchor itself is very attractive on the bow: that’s a given. I’ve received many admiring comments over the years. But also, it’s easy to rinse off sticky mud when it comes up (it rarely even gets muds all the way to surface), there is no rust or deposit, and whenever it’s down long enough for barnacle spat to settle which regrettably is not often, it’s easy to clean.
As capta pointed out, however, an SS anchor (and here, chain) is an expensive combination to pitch over the bow. I reckon around $5K replacement cost if mine were lost, although most of it in the SS chain. And, I, quite frankly, doubt I would replace any of it w/SS. It’s a luxury. Not really the stuff of trying to outfit a “new” boat for near-term travel, IMHO.
As capta pointed out, however, an SS anchor (and here, chain) is an expensive combination to pitch over the bow. I reckon around $5K replacement cost if mine were lost, although most of it in the SS chain. And, I, quite frankly, doubt I would replace any of it w/SS. It’s a luxury. Not really the stuff of trying to outfit a “new” boat for near-term travel, IMHO.
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The PS article points out one of the short comings of SS, i.e., there is little notice that it is about to fail. Galvanized chain will begin to rust.
Well, it’s still a matter of routine inspection I would guess. Casual visual inspection is enough to see galvanized chain rusting away where rust points have formed. For SS chain you might need a different type of inspection. There are several kinds that might apply, but would many boaters actually take the trouble? It would have been a better article had PS advised its readers on the best way to make inspections of SS ground tackle, etc. One receives “little notice” if one is not taking the time to notice anything. I think the same “little notice before failure” comment could be made of SS rigging, esp. turnbuckles, where owners never have their rigs inspected, or do not inspect it themselves.
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Absolutely. If any maintenance or inspection task on a boat is difficult or tedious to complete, it won't get done.
Some of these flaws can not be accurately assessed by visual inspection as they are just too small or hidden inside the metal. Often it requires equipment and a tech that are very expensive. That's why there are age guide lines for things like SS rigging, SS fittings, and even chainplates. Unfortunately, some manufacturers use inferior metals (SS 304 instead of SS 316) and this can lead to premature failure.
At least with galvanized a visual inspection should be sufficient.
First, check your bank account. If it looks like there is way too much money in there then go for the stainless.
A bit off-topic, but I use this or the Ace brand on my prop each year for anti-fouling. Works exactly like the $30 stuff and it is a larger can. I get two year's application from one $7 can. I've used this for 15+ years.