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Media added by Joe11688
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A
1975 o'day 22
will be changing to led lights both mast and cabin along with nav lights. adding solar, adding bbq, rebedding all deck hardware and below water...
Oct 19, 2023
Looking forward to V-berth.
Wow.....dream home!
Sep 18, 2023
D
MacGregor 26s
Das sind Teakleisten, die aufgeklebt, dann mit Schwarzer Masse ausgegossen und geschliffen wurden. Sieht immer noch aus wie neu.....
Aug 25, 2023
P
Marilee-Interior.jpg
This interior is gorgeous! What type of boat is this in?
Jan 10, 2023
DSCN8846
CHILD LABOR
Aug 29, 2022
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DS 3 Blocks of the same shape which are attached to the under side of the step fit securely into these holes and provide the same strength and stability as the step once had before I made it detachable.
Joe11688
Jun 28, 2012
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Tabernacle 002 Shortly after I left that other welder with the dollar signs in his eyes, I thought about making up the 2" with 1" thick pieces of Trex. I had to use the Stainless Steel plug for now so that I could get back out on the water. My son came down with his Makita crosscut saw with a carbide tip blade and he cut the bottom of my mast. I then made up this temporary mast extrusion and was back on the water in less than two weeks. This extrusion is a bit heavy and it's ugly, but it worked. It was worse than ugly. It looked down right fugly. :)
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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DSC01384 I keep these 2.5 gal. containers with food stuff in the compartments under my quarter birth mattresses and it takes two hands to remove them. This means that I need to lift the mattress each time and hold it with my head. Ya know what? I'm getting tired of doing this each time I need to get at the containers. My next mod will be to cut each of my mattresses in half and recover them them with new material. This way, all I have to do is lift the mattress off the cover and move it out of my way or place it on the adjoining mattress. I may use Velcro to keep the mattresses joined, as I have omitted the two quarter birth mattresses that were under the cockpit seats in those cubby holes. I plan on doing the same thing in the V birth section. These mattress covers are in bad shape and need replacing anyway. Also, it's going to be easier to cover four short mattresses in this area of the cabin than it would be to cover two long mattresses. I think it's a plausible idea. What do you think?
Joe11688
Feb 22, 2013
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DS 4 I cut these holes purposely to provide stability to the step and keep it in place when the dogs are secured.
Joe11688
Jun 28, 2012
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Finished extrusion 002 This is the finished extrusion. Well,-almost finished. I later added two more bolts to it. What you see is a Trex plug that fits into the mast and it's sitting on a 1/4" Aluminum plate with two pieces of PVC trim board bolted to the top tabernacle plate. I cut some kerfs on the edge of the Trex where it fits into the mast. Hopefully, any water that gets in the mast will drain right out through these kerfs. I don't know if anyone out there has ever done this. Maybe I'm the first. All I can tell you is, so far it's worked out fine.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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DS 5 These uprights provide a nice firm base for the step. I used cheap pine to mock this up first, because of the various angles. Then I transfered it to Teak.
Joe11688
Jun 28, 2012
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DSC01116 That tarp over my boom is an 8'X10' and the other two are 5'x7' tarps. The grommets on these tarps are never place where you really need them. When I buy my tarps I always find the center of each long end of the tarp and install a 1/2" grommet. I also buy some 3/16" braid line and cut them at various lengths for the tie downs. On my boom tarp I installed doubled each line for the mast and end of boom tie offs and installed cow hitches. For the rest of the tarp I just tied single lines of various lengths needed for the lifeline tie offs.
Joe11688
Jan 24, 2013
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DSC01032 Each spring after getting her bottom painted and loaded back on the trailer, I get the mast up. If some metal crook want to take this mast he's going to have to take it down. Anyway, I always mount the boom and set up a tarp over it so I can work on the boat in days of inclement weather. The tarp also keeps the dew and the leaves out.
Joe11688
Jan 24, 2013
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DSC01085 This is what I call my "Poor sailor's Bimini top." Hey, it works. It's kind of tough when I'm trolling and I get a "fish on." My Penelope looks content. I love that little animal. She's the perfect First Mate. I think this pic was taken near the Mount Hope Bridge near Bristol RI.
Joe11688
Jan 24, 2013
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DSC01119 When I set these tarps up I want to use simple quick release hitches so that I can tie and untie them in a hurry. This hitch is nothing but a round turn on the bail with a slip half hitch. All I need to do to untie it is pull on the end of the line hanging down.
Joe11688
Jan 24, 2013
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DSC01121 I have about three or four of these lines going to my lifelines from the tarp. The hitch pictured is a slipped Clove Hitch. These hitches are so simple to tie that I can do them with my right hand. You can trip this hitch by pulling on that line hanging down. Once you get to hanging these tarps you get to where you can do it without even thinking. It becomes automatic. We went through two strong gales in one day last year while anchored with this tarp and it survived it with no rips.
Joe11688
Jan 24, 2013
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DSC00923 At the end of the boating season I always strip my mast of the standing rigging. Everything including my CDI Roller Furler get stowed down my cellar. I hang the furler up high on a long beam down there. The rigging is all roller up and hung. Halyards are left on the mast all done up. The mast is wrapped with long pieces of short width old polytarp for chafe protection for my main 18'x30' Polytarp.
Joe11688
Jan 24, 2013
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DSC00924 I never had much luck with tarps until I came up with this method of securing the tarp. A picture is worth a 1000 words so check it out. The tarp is first draped over the mast with the ends even on all sides. I folded the tarp over the tabernacle an tied a clove hitch with a couple of half hitches. Whatever excess I had left in my 3/8" sling, I went around the mast and tied a square knot to secure it. Where the two front flaps hang down, I took a piece of strapping and used it to roll the flaps on. I used a carpenter's spring clamp to secure it.
Joe11688
Jan 24, 2013
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DSC00925 At this end I pulled the tarp tight and folded it over my mast head and tied another clove hitch in the same way that I did at the bow of the boat. Then I took a 3/16" x 100' line and spiraled the boat over and under and tied it off at each end. I used another short sling to tie the back flap to the gudgions leaving it open so that air can circulate. All I can say is I must be doing something right because this tarp is about 3 years old and there isn't one rip in it.
Joe11688
Jan 24, 2013
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222 Tension bar 1This tension bar is not a mod but I felt that it should be in this album because earlier O'Day 222 models particularly the 1984s didn't come with this tension bar for some unknown reason. It would behoove the owner to try and have one made and installed. I think it is very important.
Joe11688
Jan 25, 2013
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222 Tension bar 2 This strut is just a 1" stainless steel pipe with a flat spot on one end with two holes in it for bolting to the galley cabinet post. The other end has a welded flange with two holes for attaching to the mast tabernacle bolts. The bolt spacing on the welded flange might be different depending on what make mast and tabernacle is on the boat. My boat came with Z-Difusion (Z-Spar) internal halyards and I suspect that the tabernacle plate on the cabin may have a different bolt spacing than an O'Day 222 with Dwyer spars.
Joe11688
Jan 25, 2013
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222 Tension bar 3 If there is any give to your cabin roof due to the pressure of the shrouds bearing down on the mast, you may discover that your shrouds are getting loose. I truly believe that this problem can be avoided altogether by installing a strut similar to this one. This strut was installed at the Fall River Ma., O'Day factory in 1986 when they built my boat.
Joe11688
Jan 25, 2013
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scan0001 Before you construct one of these, get a measurement of your mast tabernacle bolt spacing. Then figure on the size plate needed to accommodate that spacing for you holes.
Joe11688
Jan 25, 2013
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Tension bar sketch 001 These angles are pretty close to the ones on my bar. What I would do is try to mock up a bar out of wood for instances and check to see how it fits. Then take it to a welder and have him make you up one similar to it out of 1" stainless steel pipe.
Joe11688
Jan 25, 2013
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DSC08342 This mast only weighs about 65 lbs and it's easy to raise without the Gin Pole. I used to raise the mast by hand and use a 3/8"X 60' nylon line with a sheave connected to the bow stem chainplate to hold the mast up. I spliced an eye on one end of the line and connected it to my Jib shackle. The Jib halyard was raised and cleated to the mast with the line running through the sheave on the bow. Once the mast was up, I'd take the line around the mast above the goose neck fitting, and tie it off to my starboard bow cleat after pulling all the slack out of the line. Then the fore stay could be connected. If you have a quick release lever on your backstay or a Johnson Handy-Lock, you can throw enough slack into your forestay so that you can remove it. You never need to touch the other turnbuckles on the O'Day 222. A press button quick pin can be used on the fore stay. Do not use a fast pin!
Joe11688
Aug 3, 2013
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DSC00435 Note where I am standing as I am letting the mast down. I want to be situated where I can grab hold of the mast if something goes haywire. The boom vang allows me to do just that. I'm not sure if the boat winch would allow this type of freedom.
Joe11688
Aug 3, 2013
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DSC00442 I used to have to raise the crutch to a higher position before I started using the Gin Pole but having a Trex block under my mast tabernacle now allows the height needed over my closed companionway hatch to leave the crutch all the way down.
Joe11688
Aug 3, 2013
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DSC00450 As I had mentioned previously, you need some sort of a mast crutch to hold the mast up off the cabin while you pin the tabernacle. A small roller in the mast crutch will allow you to roll the mast forward or aft. I was fortunate to get a full stern rail on my new O'Day 222 only because I requested it. They only install about 20 of these on these boats that year so I'm told. I had a welder make me up that mast crutch to my existing rail. He only charged me about $230 back then I think. I built that wooden crutch and later added the roller. My friend Wayne Barlow gave me the idea of having a roller in the crutch. I had been lifting my mast and walking it back to the crutch and putting it in place-- like a dumbbell. Heck it's easier to roll it back and forth.
Joe11688
Aug 3, 2013
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DSC00781 This first Gin Pole that I built was made of Oak. I made so that it could be taken apart for easy stowage. If you decide to build one of these it would be wise to have your mast raised so that you can decide where you want to place it on the mast. I place the crutch of the Gin Pole on my mast and tie it off just about even with the Goose Neck. This height will allow me to take up on my block and tackle and I'm using my boom vang with about 55' of braid line attached to it. This gives me enough line to stretch the blocks out. Figure on making the Gin pole long enough to be within an inch or two from the forestay when it's in place on the mast. The Gin Pole just provides the angle needed to raise/lower the mast and that's all. Some guys mount a small boat winch on the Gin Pole and use it to raise/lower the mast. Myself, I prefer the block & tackle or my Boom Vang.
Joe11688
Aug 3, 2013
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